When you say AAV are you talking about the IACV? I think they are one in the same although I get confused easily.

Is there any way you can take a picture of what you did? I'm thinking I might be able to block mine off and reduce the dang high idle I have when it's cold.

 

BUMP.
Can anyone add anything else to this? I'm not even sure where the IAC? AAV? IACV? is even located on my truck and my idle goes crazy up and down a few minutes after initial start-up. You don't really notice it driving down the road although it is easy to tell once you have no pressure on the gas pedal. The engine jumps up to 3,000 rpms for a split second after pressing in the clutch, and then right down to the 1500rpm to 2000rpm sea-saw battle. My truck has 122,000 miles on it but you would never know it. It would leave you believe that it has 422,000 miles on it going by the body condition and the amount of electrical problems it has inside the cab. I have to at least get more than 1 month worth of driving out of this thing to justify the money I still owe on it. I'm sure it 'could' be just a simple fix, but lack of being able to find definite information of what it could be has me scratching my head. I am somewhat mechanically inclined if you were to put me in front of an 80's or 90's domestic vehicle, but I am totally lost when it comes to this truck.
There has to be other causes of a surging idle other than just the level of the coolant since mine is and always has been full and doesn't leak a drop anywhere.

 

Usually attached to the throttle body, either directly or via an air hose. At least that is the way it is on the 22RE.

Have you checked/tested/adjusted the throttle position sensor (TPS)? If not, do so:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...roubleshooting

Because if the TPS IDLe setting is not right, you WILL have an unstable idle. And if the idle speed is set too high, you can get the surging issue:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/TLCA_Tru...ech.04.09.html

 

I'd like to check the TPS reading, but I guess I'll have to find or buy some feeler gauges first in order to do it correctly.
Thanks for the link, it seems a little easier to understand than what they have written in the FSM. I'm not even sure what they are using in the FSM to check the sensor(a SST? and what looks like a 3 ended wire to check 3 'blades' all at the same time?)

 

See below, no need for feeler gauges for a basic check:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ml#AliveOrDead

Like mentioned, the exact gap to the nearest 0.001" is really not critical, just needs to be reasonable.

 

Thanks 4crawler for your help. I went out a little bit ago and I wasn't even able to see where the TPS even is but that might have more to do with the freezing temps and blowing snow we are getting right now. Hopefully I will get a better chance tommorow after work to confirm,
OT, but I am familiar with the TPS on a GM fuel injection unit like the one on the TB of the TPI setup I installed on my 87 monte carlo SS. I checked it a little bit differently though since you don't check for resisitance but instead for voltage. Same principle though, I suppose.
One final point, my idle changing has nothing at all to do with contacting the brake pedal at all and my truck is a manual trans. Driving down the road at speed, there doesn't seem to be anything wrong but as soon as you push in the clutch the rpms jump up to ~3K~ for a second then drop down to 1500 and bounce back and forth between 1500 and 2K. It does this even if it was sitting in the driveway the entire time other than the first few minutes after initial start up.
Thanks again.

 

Yes the AAV is one and the same as the IACV, Don't worry it confuses me to


Here is what I had to do, You will have no high idle when its cold
Before


After

 

Yeah, so i did the same thing today. It came off in one corner the first time, but I put a new piece in. Works awesome. Duct tape! The idle is perfect now. I have my spare TB out in New Hampshire; hopefully the AAC on that one won't be shot too.

 

You can clean the AAV, but from what I've been able to tell you have to take the TB off to remove it and clean it. This is a temporary fix only. I'm going to be doing a head gasket job in the spring so I will be cleaning mine then

 

FIRST HAND KNOWLEDGE
i know exactly where you are coming from. as said, if the coolant level is low you will get the crazy surge. the screw on the top of your TB has a rubber o-ring that gets hard and lets air go by. replace that and put a fine layer of white lithium on the new o-ring to help it down the rabbit hole. i tore my IACV off of the bottom of the TB to explore my early morning 2K rev up. i found that it had backed off and was caked with carbon deposits. i ground two "ears" into the end of a 1" chisel to back that damn nut off. if you do this MAKE SURE YOU WATCH FOR THE SMALL ROD THAT SETS IN THE MIDDLE. mine flew our and it took me hours to find. also take a note of its orientation. DO NOT GET SOLVENT ON THE WAX WHERE THIS PIN COMES OUT OF!! very important stuff there. after i cleaned it up i screwed the spring/valve assembly down all the way and backed it off about 3-1/2 turns. i also put a trace of blue thread lock on to ensure it doesn't back off again. screwed her back together and now my morning idle hovers around 1250. pretty neat.