When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi guys, I'm new here and hope to learn a lot! I recently acquired an '87 pickup for free that was thought to have a bad engine and all it needed was a head gasket. So I have it up and running now and scored a pretty sweet deal at the end of the day!
My question is on the dipstick. This truck has an '84 22r block converted to FI with the correct '87 22re head. When I filled the truck with oil according to an '84, it would barely register on the dipstick. I've read that there's different lengths of dipsticks and tubes, and I'm sure one or both are incorrect. Can anyone lead me in the right direction as to either finding the correct parts, or perhaps tell me what length my tube and dipstick should be? Or should I just fill the correct amount and create a new mark on the dipstick I have?
I'm sure I'll be asking a lot of questions because the engine looks like it was pretty well cobbled together to make run. There are vacuum lines sealed off with screws and vacuum lines that go no where! I'd like to make this things as correct as possible and have a solid little truck to cruise around in.
Hi guys, I'm new here and hope to learn a lot! I recently acquired an '87 pickup for free that was thought to have a bad engine and all it needed was a head gasket. So I have it up and running now and scored a pretty sweet deal at the end of the day!
My question is on the dipstick. This truck has an '84 22r block converted to FI with the correct '87 22re head. When I filled the truck with oil according to an '84, it would barely register on the dipstick. I've read that there's different lengths of dipsticks and tubes, and I'm sure one or both are incorrect. Can anyone lead me in the right direction as to either finding the correct parts, or perhaps tell me what length my tube and dipstick should be? Or should I just fill the correct amount and create a new mark on the dipstick I have?
I'm sure I'll be asking a lot of questions because the engine looks like it was pretty well cobbled together to make run. There are vacuum lines sealed off with screws and vacuum lines that go no where! I'd like to make this things as correct as possible and have a solid little truck to cruise around in.
Thanks guys!
Post some photos of the vacuum lines in question and we'll tell you what they're for.
Someone more knowledgeable than me on the differences in the slightly taller, earlier 22r blocks will have to help you with the dipstick/tube dilemma. Also, there are 2 different oil pans for 2 or 4wd.
Granted that the oilpan and the oil pickup are correct, I'd just fill it with the specified amount of oil, and make the appropriate marks on whatever stick you have.
Thanks for the quick answers guys! How can I determine if the oil pan is correct?
Here's a pic of the engine. You can see a screw in place of one of the lines from the throttle body, and another screw that seals off a broken like that looks like it should attach to some kind of apparatus next to the distributor.
I looked at a photo and it would appear that the line from the tb where the screw is should go to some kind of device next to the cold start valve?
Thanks for the quick answers guys! How can I determine if the oil pan is correct?
Here's a pic of the engine. You can see a screw in place of one of the lines from the throttle body, and another screw that seals off a broken like that looks like it should attach to some kind of apparatus next to the distributor.
I looked at a photo and it would appear that the line from the tb where the screw is should go to some kind of device next to the cold start valve?
Thanks again!
The photo helps a lot. Jeez, there's a lot going on there that shouldn't be. I'll try to help some, but you really need a service manual or someone who knows these engines to look it over.
The hose with a bolt in it used to connect to the power steering pump. It gives the idle a boost at full wheel lock. The hose was cut for some reason and the other half from the pump is still open.
You're completely missing the valve cover vent hose. It runs from the hole above the Toyota logo over to the side of the intake plenum.
The egr (exhaust gas recirculation) regulator valve should be bolted to the valve cover but is just dangling back there, not sure if it's hooked up.
The screw in the throttle body used to have a port and a hose that ran to the metal hard line to the egr. The brass port is gone and I don't see the hard line so I think you might just want to delete the egr at this point.
Also the vacuum port furthest back on the intake (black plastic with the 2 capped ports) should be connected to the fuel pressure regulator but the hose looks like it's headed somewhere else.
Every other 22re I've ever seen has acorn nuts holding down the valve cover, might want to stay oem there.
Probably more stuff out of whack on this engine, but that's a start...
Nope the turbo has been removed. It runs decent but you can tell there's a lot of vacuum leaks. I found this picture I here that I can use as reference, but I'm still not sure what that part is next to the cold start valve. It looks like some vacuum lines run to it and it appears my manifold is just capped off where it would go.
The "device next to the cold start valve" might be the bvsv (plastic thing with 2 forward-facing ports), which is also part of the egr system so I'm guessing most of that's not connected anymore.
I'm also wondering if there's still a turbo in there, but guessing no?
The photo helps a lot. Jeez, there's a lot going on there that shouldn't be. I'll try to help some, but you really need a service manual or someone who knows these engines to look it over.
The hose with a bolt in it used to connect to the power steering pump. It gives the idle a boost at full wheel lock. The hose was cut for some reason and the other half from the pump is still open.
You're completely missing the valve cover vent hose. It runs from the hole above the Toyota logo over to the side of the intake plenum.
The egr (exhaust gas recirculation) regulator valve should be bolted to the valve cover but is just dangling back there, not sure if it's hooked up.
The screw in the throttle body used to have a port and a hose that ran to the metal hard line to the egr. The brass port is gone and I don't see the hard line so I think you might just want to delete the egr at this point.
Also the vacuum port furthest back on the intake (black plastic with the 2 capped ports) should be connected to the fuel pressure regulator but the hose looks like it's headed somewhere else.
Every other 22re I've ever seen has acorn nuts holding down the valve cover, might want to stay oem there.
Probably more stuff out of whack on this engine, but that's a start...
The hard line is still there. I came across it while doing the head gasket. It did have an empty port, now that you mention it, which sounds like should be connected to the tb. How hard would it be to install a new brass fitting so I can properly connect a hose?
If I was fixing this engine up, I'd probably swap another tb in. I don't know if the turbo intake is different aside from the logo, but might swap a standard EFI one in while I was at it.
Here's a couple shots from the 85 manual to help you see what's going on with egr. Other years are slightly different, it seems to get more complicated as time went on, but it's a start.
Man you've got a mess to sort out there. You are missing the idle up actuator. It threads into the intake right next the cold start injector, and I think that big vac line from the throttle body goes into it, and then other things like the power steering and AC idle up VSV have lines that go to it to get your idle to bump up when it's needed. You might be best served going to a junkyard and just buying the upper intake piece with all the little fittings that you'll need.
Also the vacuum port furthest back on the intake (black plastic with the 2 capped ports) should be connected to the fuel pressure regulator but the hose looks like it's headed somewhere else.
This vacuum line goes to the circled area in my photo. When I re-route it to the fpr, where does this line in the picture normally run?
Also (i pulled the engine today) I noticed a bar on the exhaust manifold that seems to be capped off. Is it for something in particular?
That's all later model stuff, but I've read a little about both. That looks like a second charcoal canister up front there so just run a second hose to the fpr from the multi-port. The capped hard line on the manifold is part of the smog pump system. You probably don't have the pump anymore (it's belt driven on the passenger side). That line can just stay capped off or you can buy or make block-off plates.
Thanks for your help. This thing is starting to come together!
My next question is on the breather I'm missing on my valve cover. Looking at wally's pictures it looks like that hose goes to the intake manifold, but I don't have the port on mine that he has. Where else might that breather run?
My next question is on the breather I'm missing on my valve cover. Looking at wally's pictures it looks like that hose goes to the intake manifold, but I don't have the port on mine that he has. Where else might that breather run?
hard to see, but it looks as though your plenum has an untapped boss in that place. i'm not familiar with the turbo design; maybe the turbos had the breather attached to a different set of hoses that aren't used on the non-turbos, and thus you don't see a place to connect it to.
That's the problem with Frankenstein engines, you won't always end up with what you need where you want it to be.
I ran a Google image search for you and found that on a 22rte, the valve cover breather runs to the other side of the engine and meets up with the turbo somewhere. You don't have a turbo and you really want that breather to run to your intake. Hate to say it, but I think you'll do best to source an EFI intake from eBay or another yotatech member (If I had a spare I'd offer it up).
Here's a current ebay listing for a complete plenum with all the fittings and csi for $65 shipped.
04-26-2017, 04:21 PM
