I have an 88 4Runner with the auto tranny. It has trouble idling when sitting at stop lights. It acts like the torque converter is still fully engaged, lugging against the engine. I've found myself kicking it into neutral when sitting at long lights. I had to set the idle speed in park to 1000rpm which is pretty high. It drops to a very rough 500 when in gear. Is this normal for this model?

 

CEL? Whens the last time the O2 sensor was changed and did you use an OEM one? Is the IACV working?

 

O2 sensor only has about 10K miles on it. (Bosch unit). There is no IACV. It's an old Jetronic EFI I believe.

 

In my experience the Bosch units arent the best for the 88 but no idea how that would all play into whatever EFI system is in it now. I will let someone lese chime in about the auto trannies for that year, I dont have much experience with them.

 

Bosche is designed to fit European vehicles, Denso is for Japanese vehicles, and never the twain shall meet. The Bosche stuff SAYS it's good for our trucks, but it doesn't send the right info to the ECU. They don't last worth a darn in our trucks, either.

WELL worth using Denso, even if they cost more. Consider the miles per dollar cost. The denso will be less than the Bosche.

Have fun!
Pat☺

 

I agree about the Bosch stuff. Idk how they became a go to for japanese car parts. Maybe weve all had a bosch drill and assume they make good stuff.

With that said, the 02 sensor may not be the problem. Search "hot or warm idle" problems im this forum and you will see decades of threads where people diagnose it to: maf sensor, tps, vacuum leaks, improperly set idle speeds, etc. This is a common 22re problem, however there can be many causes.
my advice: find and fix vacuum leaks before messing with all your sensors.

 

Possible bad motor/tranny mounts? Had this issue on one of my vehicles. Sounded just like my motor lugging. It only happened at idle and when starting to drive after stopped at a light. Turns out it was motor mounts practically disinigrated.

Worth a shot to check them, you can check them easy by having someone sitting in car with emergency brake pulled, their foot on brake, and just shift through all the gears while stopped while you watch the motor up front. If bad the motor will look like it’s flopping around the engine bay.

 

The motor, hoses, and such are all relatively new. It just seems like the torque converter is not wanting to let go at idle. (FYI, this is an old EFI system. There is no MAF or TPS. It's just a very basic VAFM with gang bang injectors.)

 

What motor is in this thing?

 

It's a good ol' 22RE with about 10K miles on it.

 

If it has an aftermarket efi system, we would need a lot more info about that to help you diagnose your idle problem.

 

Start with a valve lash adjustment and go from there, and you DO have a TPS unless is a 22R engine.

 

You're right. I completely forgot about the TPS being there. I checked it a long time ago when the engine was rebuilt and it seemed to work fine per the repair manual. But that was some time ago. I guess it's time to take another look at it.

 

Adjust your valves first and see if that fixes your problem.

 

Always a good idea. I do mine about once a year, in the spring. It really seems to make a difference. Sure can't hurt!

I replace the valve cover gasket every third or fourth adjustment, or if I get a leak. That rear half-moon is famous for leaking for some reason. When it starts, the whole valve cover set gets replaced. Even if it's not "time" to do the valves, they get adjusted anyway. I figure it can't hurt anything.

Good luck!
Pat☺

 

The valves may need some attention. But I can't get to them for a couple of days. It's supposed to start raining. I want to take a look at both the valves and the throttle body/TPS which means it will be out of service for a bit.