did the ISR mod and deckplate today
#1
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did the ISR mod and deckplate today
I removed the lower box and the one closest to the TB rerouting all of the hoses to their appropriate area. Replaced the birds nest with a 90 degree piece of 3" pvc electrical conduit(its a true 3" mandrel bend). I'm not sure about the ruber fittings that I used between the pipe and the TB but I'm sure it will hold up until I get a good one from rabid chimp.
So now for the immediate review
Before I getto that I should lay out the following. This is on a 3.0 and one of its major hinderances seems to be breathing ie the intake and exhaust manafolds. Also these are in preperation for a 3mm overbore TB and plenum.
-I found the noise level to have increased, but not to the point where I find it anoying. It passed the GF test as she couldn't tell the difference when I picked her up. So the engine roar is only as loud as the injectors. I actually like the sound, it really purrs now, sounds really strong but nothing that will piss off the neighbors.
-Difficulty level is very low, it took me about an hour to measure cut, fit and install. All you need is a drill, saw and socket set for the intake tube. For the Deckplate I used a hole saw, some screws and some plumbers epoxy. It aint pretty but it works and its not gonna break the bank. I only did the DP cause as most of you know I will be installing a snorkel soon so its a good balance with the snorkel. You could just cut another hole in the airbox if you like.
-The cost was minimal about $65 all together and I wasted some on materials I didn't need but I'll get to that later. The K&N was free but that is also optional.
-Is there a noticable difference in performance? Immediately yes. Throttle response is much better simply because I eliminated all the pre TB choke points to just the AFM and the smooth pipe is larger and cleaner then the factory setup. Milage only time will tell and any HP increase debatable I didn't notice much but I had to drive conservatively cause our roads are covered with snow and ice right now. The throttle feels much smoother and seems to wind up faster.
-Issues I came accross were pretty minor, the lower box that attaches to the BOV was understandably full of really gooey oil, probably 15 years of sludge in there, there was a lot of oil in the whole intake also snow and crap was in the bottom of the airbox when I opened it up so the factory snorkel behind the headlight lets a lot of crap in there. The crap in the airbox actually make me feel good though cause when I install a real snorkel the stock system should handle the incoming crap well.
What do you need"
-1x3" 90 degree pvc electrical conduit from supply store.
-2x fittings I can't recall off the top of my head the size but you can figure that out easy enough if you choose to attempt.
-2x3" ruber hose fittings these are easy enough to find however after driving for 45 mins the one hear the TB was rather hot so I think I will get a "pro" piece from rabid chimp.
-1 deckplate from a marine suply store.
I udersized the holes for the 2 fittings and used the copper fittings to thread the holes, this worked great there is a posative seal and no chance of any crap falling into the pipe and ultimately the TB and engine.
I will post some pics when I get a chance. Let me know if you have any questions.
So now for the immediate review
Before I getto that I should lay out the following. This is on a 3.0 and one of its major hinderances seems to be breathing ie the intake and exhaust manafolds. Also these are in preperation for a 3mm overbore TB and plenum.
-I found the noise level to have increased, but not to the point where I find it anoying. It passed the GF test as she couldn't tell the difference when I picked her up. So the engine roar is only as loud as the injectors. I actually like the sound, it really purrs now, sounds really strong but nothing that will piss off the neighbors.
-Difficulty level is very low, it took me about an hour to measure cut, fit and install. All you need is a drill, saw and socket set for the intake tube. For the Deckplate I used a hole saw, some screws and some plumbers epoxy. It aint pretty but it works and its not gonna break the bank. I only did the DP cause as most of you know I will be installing a snorkel soon so its a good balance with the snorkel. You could just cut another hole in the airbox if you like.
-The cost was minimal about $65 all together and I wasted some on materials I didn't need but I'll get to that later. The K&N was free but that is also optional.
-Is there a noticable difference in performance? Immediately yes. Throttle response is much better simply because I eliminated all the pre TB choke points to just the AFM and the smooth pipe is larger and cleaner then the factory setup. Milage only time will tell and any HP increase debatable I didn't notice much but I had to drive conservatively cause our roads are covered with snow and ice right now. The throttle feels much smoother and seems to wind up faster.
-Issues I came accross were pretty minor, the lower box that attaches to the BOV was understandably full of really gooey oil, probably 15 years of sludge in there, there was a lot of oil in the whole intake also snow and crap was in the bottom of the airbox when I opened it up so the factory snorkel behind the headlight lets a lot of crap in there. The crap in the airbox actually make me feel good though cause when I install a real snorkel the stock system should handle the incoming crap well.
What do you need"
-1x3" 90 degree pvc electrical conduit from supply store.
-2x fittings I can't recall off the top of my head the size but you can figure that out easy enough if you choose to attempt.
-2x3" ruber hose fittings these are easy enough to find however after driving for 45 mins the one hear the TB was rather hot so I think I will get a "pro" piece from rabid chimp.
-1 deckplate from a marine suply store.
I udersized the holes for the 2 fittings and used the copper fittings to thread the holes, this worked great there is a posative seal and no chance of any crap falling into the pipe and ultimately the TB and engine.
I will post some pics when I get a chance. Let me know if you have any questions.
#5
Sponsor
sounds intresting. so its made wiht PVC pipe? i as well want pics
see https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120/toyota-faq-66255/
Originally Posted by highway74
what is the ISR mod?
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#9
a 90* - mine looks more like a 45 would fit better between the TB and the MAF - I'd like to see pics of your setup when you get a chance - I was thinking about doing the same using a 45* pre-fabbed bend.
#10
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Location: Solano Co, CA Originally a North Idaho Hick
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Been a while since I showed off my ISR mod so while your on the topic here is yet another way to do it. My dad custom fabbed this piece from fiberglass. I have also bored out my airbox for more airflow. I have a write up in the tech section on how to do that...
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Finally got some pics today after getting the new camera.
Here is the new intake tube worked out quite well all in all a total of 3 parts, one pipe and 2 hose fittings threaded into the pipe. Oh and the 2 hose couplings. I'd position the hose fittings differently if I did it again but it works great as is so I'm not gonna touch it other then to paint it when I tear down the top end this summer.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c5...hepeg/ISR1.jpg
And the deckplate that everyone said can't be done on the 3.0. It doesn't sit flush but it does seal and is secure so thats all I want, I'll paint it with the pipe this summer. what you can't see is the hole between the side of the engine bay and the air box. That is the reason for the deckplate as I'm gonna plumb the snorkel in through there.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c5.../Deckplate.jpg
So far I'm happy with the setup.
Here is the new intake tube worked out quite well all in all a total of 3 parts, one pipe and 2 hose fittings threaded into the pipe. Oh and the 2 hose couplings. I'd position the hose fittings differently if I did it again but it works great as is so I'm not gonna touch it other then to paint it when I tear down the top end this summer.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c5...hepeg/ISR1.jpg
And the deckplate that everyone said can't be done on the 3.0. It doesn't sit flush but it does seal and is secure so thats all I want, I'll paint it with the pipe this summer. what you can't see is the hole between the side of the engine bay and the air box. That is the reason for the deckplate as I'm gonna plumb the snorkel in through there.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c5.../Deckplate.jpg
So far I'm happy with the setup.
Last edited by suprathepeg; 01-04-2006 at 07:31 PM.
#12
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I thought that PVC had some bad chemicals in it that made it non-ideal for the tube because it leaches those chemicals into the incoming air stream as the tube warms up. Anybody know anything about this???
I am in the process of tracking down parts to do this mod. Does anyone know where to find the brass fittings that they talk about here: https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/blu_intake/blu.htm
I've looked for them at home depot, lowe's, my local ace hardware. Where'd you guys find them?
I am in the process of tracking down parts to do this mod. Does anyone know where to find the brass fittings that they talk about here: https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/blu_intake/blu.htm
I've looked for them at home depot, lowe's, my local ace hardware. Where'd you guys find them?
#14
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Thread Starter
Hmm well I haven't noticed any adverse effects so far, I'll keep my eye on it.The only thing I could see it effecting is the O2 sensor. It take a lot of heat to effect this stuff I tried with a torch and it has a high threshold.
#17
Contributing Member
here u go http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...allpartial/0/0
did a quick search and found a link for a boating store
did a quick search and found a link for a boating store