spacoli

Hi to all.

I had a TPS code coming up on my 93 PU 22re. So I changed the TPS with another off a used motor I had and got the same code (41).

So I took the battery teminals of for a 10 min and re-checked it. Now when I jump the terminals the check engine light blinks constantly.

Whats up with this blinking, is it normal? Thanks

DCYota

If it blinks constantly, and it doesn't stop blinking, then your engine is running normally, and there are no codes present anymore.

I'm assuming you set the TPS correctly when you put the new one on as well. But yes, either pulling the EFI fuse or the battery cables will reset the ECU. If you swapped in that TPS from another motor and didn't pull the cables first or the fuse, then yes, you'll get that same code that's stored.

scuba

that means you have a minuet and a half to run the hell away before you rig blows up

ha
april fools

but to second dc
constant blinking means all good

spacoli

Thanks guys.

That's great


On adjustment of the TPS. I'm not sure if I did it quite right. I tried to use these instructions here.

I basicly set it closed at 500 ohms and the wide open fell in at 5000 ohms or there abouts. That is what the guy said his was in the instructions.

On my first test drive I noticed that the throttle was very punchy when you first give it the gas. When decelerating (engine braking), it hit a spot where it just slowed down fast at of the sudden. When backing up at speed it was hard to keep the throttle steady, it was either take off or idle.

What do you guys think? Thanks again

DCYota

I would say your TPS is still out of adjustment by the sounds of it. It's best to follow the simplified instructions by FrankenYota on 4Crawlers page. There's about 10 steps. I followed those steps this past weekend, and the TPS is dead on now...the truck runs so much better with the TPS fixed and the timing adjusted correctly. With the TPS out of whack, it tends to advance timing too far (at least it did with my 88 pickup). When you jump the T and E1 connectors in your diagnostic box, does the idle die back audibly? If so, the TPS is working, although it may still not be adjusted within spec.

Keep plugging away at it. The key is to get it at the recommended <2.3 kilo ohms of resistance. Then you know it's set properly.

spacoli

Yes it does idle down, when jumped.

I beleive that's the instuction I was looking at, but I did not this whole procedure below.

But I will do this. Thanks

Throttle Position Sensor IDL-E2 Adjustment Procedure (courtesy of Frankenyota)

-Loosen both screws attaching TPS to throttle body.

-Attach multi-meter to TPS terminals IDL and E2 (the bottom two terminals on the TPS). You can use alligator clips to make this easier or use small ¼” lengths of vacuum hose to hold them on

-Insert 0.85mm (22RE) or 0.77mm (3VZE) feeler gauge between throttle stop screw and throttle plate (see picture)

-Move TPS body CW/CCW until ohms reading on multimeter is infinite (open)

-Move the TPS body very slowly CCW until you find the end of the resistive strip, the meter will indicate <2.3Kohms of resistance

-Move the TPS body extremely slowly in the CW direction until the meter goes to open/infinite again

-Tighten the top TPS screw being very careful not to disturb the adjustment
-Remove the feeler gauge and insert a 0.57mm (22RE) or 0.50mm (3VZE) feeler gauge

-The meter should (hopefully) indicate between 0 and 2.3Kohms of resistance, if it does tighten the bottom screw and reconnect the electrical connector, if not go back to step 4 and try again

-To check whether the adjustment was successful start the engine and insert the timing test jumper, if the idle speed decreases audibly it is working normally.

DCYota

Yup, follow those directions and if the TPS is good and not trashed, it will work everytime. It may take a couple of tries to get it right, but in the end all will be well.

So, at least we know it's working by idling down.

spacoli

I'm not sure how to work this meter and what setting to put it on.

I tried using it on 20k. While rotating the TPS I didn't see a number 2.3 that would stay on the meter, the numbers keep jumping around even when not moving the TPS. I'm pretty sure the 20k is the setting I was to use.

I put the .85mm feeler gauge at the throttle stop screw and the little vacume diapham thing. Is this the right location? Why are you supposed to use the .85mm feeler gauge to set it and then use the .57mm to check it?

A few question I'm not sure about.

What does open/infinate mean? Why does it say move clockwise and counter clockwise? It says "Move TPS body CW/CCW until ohms reading on multimeter is infinite (open)" What is the open infinate reading value on the meter?

What is the end of the resistive strip? "Move the TPS body very slowly CCW until you find the end of the resistive strip, the meter will indicate <2.3Kohms of resistance"

After reading the instuctions and typing up this post, I see some of the things I'm doing wrong, I guess I just need to lean how to read the meter and know what open/infinate is.

Thanks

toyota_mdt_tech

Constant blinking is normal if its even.

DCYota

If you're unsure of how to read the meter then read 4Crawler's explanation on his page about how to read one. 0.L would indicate open/infinite on just about any ohm meter. At least on the ones that I've used. Rotating the TPS simulates the throttle plate opening and closing. The reason for the different thickness gauges is to simulate the settings the plate is to be at when the correct ohms are registered.