I have a 88 Toyota with a 22re motor. I have tried everything and can't get it to run right. I have to advance the timing all the way to make it even go down the road without bogging after 1/4 throttle. When I do this I get valve clatter. It boggs and surges after 1/4 throttle going down the road. I've checked cam timimg plugs cap and rotor coolant temp sensor and egr. It has a new tps and I've adjusted afm both ways. Sometimes you can hold the throttle about 3/4 and it will just sit there and miss and bogg but as soon as you get to a certain point either way it will pick back up. Its also runs real rich. Is there a trick I'm missing? It always Biggs to a degree while driving but it only sometimes boggs to the extent that it will not rev. I've tried looking at other post but can't find anything with all my issues

 

Have you read any codes it throws?

 

Did you eliminate the east things like vacuum lines?

 

Always do the simple first!!

Air Fuel Ignition Timing

If the Check engine light is on read the codes it gives one a place to start.

 

No check engine light on. No vacuum leaks. Even put an extra ground wire from motor to body to make sure it had good ground.

 

I can't set the timing correctly just advance it all the way to be able to give it any throttle without bogging.

 

When adjusting the timing you are jumping between TE1 and E1 that could be your whole problem

Your timing is way off.

No not a trick the way you adjust the timing!!

 

I have not jumped the terminals because I don't have a timing light right now but I still should be able to get it timed within the adjustment of the distributor I would think. The way I understand it is that if you don't have the jumper in it may be at 5 degrees but will read like its at 12 or so. I may be wrong tho.

 

Basically the more I move it clockwise the worse it boggs. The more I move it counterclockwise the less it boggs but never really goes away and just starts clattering like the timing is advanced too much.

 

If your good enough to do it this way your a far better mechanic then I will ever be.

I wish you good luck.

 

Ok timing all set using jumper but has a bogg still

 

Ok pulled battery cable to reset computer. Hooked jumper up and check engine was flashing fast as if to say no codes. When I gave it gas it stopped flashing fast and gave me a code 51 for the tps. Its a new one but does thht mean its bad still?

 

Did you adjust the new TPS as per the FSM?

Sometimes brand new aftermarket TPS are no good. Toyota part is best.

If the ECM is being told by the TPS that the throttle is open, the ECM will advance the timing.

TPS must be working properly , and adjusted correctly, for idle speed ignition timing to be set accurately.

 

It was but its probably not now that I've jacked with it so much. It may just be a bad part.

 

mine did this bog thing ran like poo ... i noticed a hose spraying a stream of hot coolant onto some wires . betwwen intake and valve cover on top its been along time , but i will look at try to remember where it was . it was consistant wierd went to 1800 rpm then bogged down to around 1200-1000 up to 1800 like normal then bogged , not saying its a hose but maybe a connection okay looking at it now ! stay away from matches for now

 

it was either a injector connection or the tps connector . the small hose from throttle body to manifold in that area was soaking it could barely see the leak . btw mine runs almost as good with the tps unplugged ? found this when clip wasnt on proper it came off i didnt even realize till checking fluids .

 

See that's what I'm worried about. I don't want to buy another tps if thats not it. I've had several people say they run fine without them.

 

Maybe one of those genius's who told you that they run just fine without a TPS, can get it running.

Toyota only put those things on there to make trouble for you.

 

Lol agreed. I think its the tips cause I just unhooked it and reset computer. After the initial flooding on start up, it accelerates great no hesitation. Maybe I'll just get another. If it wasnt for the flooding at first I'd just leave it.

 

The FSM gives the procedure to test TPS.

You can find out if yours is any good by using a multimeter.