CV/Halveshaft Uhoh....
05-28-2007, 11:17 PM
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CV/Halveshaft Uhoh....
Tonight I was out wheelin with a few friends, took his 05 ranger out to pop its cherry.
When i put my 4 runner in 4wd i started moving to ☺☺☺☺ with a friend pissing in a bush, when i was turning there was a *clunk clucnk clunk clunk* from the right front wheel. through the night as we were wheelin it gor progressivly worse to where it made the noise under almost and turning at all.
Any Insight?
what about costs total parts and all.
I may end up selling it and get a ext cab taco.
Over some big bumps there was a few loud popping noises from the rear..coulnt uiet figure it out though..
When i put my 4 runner in 4wd i started moving to ☺☺☺☺ with a friend pissing in a bush, when i was turning there was a *clunk clucnk clunk clunk* from the right front wheel. through the night as we were wheelin it gor progressivly worse to where it made the noise under almost and turning at all.
Any Insight?
what about costs total parts and all.
I may end up selling it and get a ext cab taco.
Over some big bumps there was a few loud popping noises from the rear..coulnt uiet figure it out though..
05-29-2007, 12:09 PM
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Does it make the noise when you aren't in 4wd? And do you have manual hubs?
If it is the halfshaft you can get one from autozone for $70 with a lifetime warranty (boots included). Replaced one this weekend - its not fun or clean, but it's easily doable.
I used to have loud popping noises too - turned out my hitch just hitting the rear bumper brackets when going over big bumps - a crow bar fixed that one...
If it is the halfshaft you can get one from autozone for $70 with a lifetime warranty (boots included). Replaced one this weekend - its not fun or clean, but it's easily doable.
I used to have loud popping noises too - turned out my hitch just hitting the rear bumper brackets when going over big bumps - a crow bar fixed that one...
05-29-2007, 12:29 PM
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when in 2wd its fine, i dont have manual hubs, theough that upgrade is on its way.
i can see what broke.. ill get pictures up as soon as i find my camera today
i can see what broke.. ill get pictures up as soon as i find my camera today
05-29-2007, 02:49 PM
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Broken parts are never fun. My trucks always pops a little up front when turning and in 4WD, but it stays the same. I assume it's normal, things are turning tightly when they normally don't I even have non-manual hubs, but it only pops in 4wd.
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thats how i found it this morning
05-29-2007, 03:17 PM
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05-29-2007, 03:43 PM
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Well the CV definately needs to be replaced (hopefully nothing else). Not a huge deal, and a search will yield tons of results. Here is how i did mine:
- Take off wheel,
- Remove the golden cover on your add with a screwdriver and a hammer(or the top part of the clutch by removing the 6 10mm bolts for those with manual hubs)
-Take off the 12mm gold bolt and the snap ring that hold the cv to the hub
- Pray to god that you can remove the 6 nuts that hold the cv to the differential flange (even after liquid wrench mine required a breaker bar and a 1ft extension so that i could use the breaker bar in the wheel well, and a 17mm wrench on the flange to keep it from turning on me)
- see if you can get the cv off of the differential flange if not continue:
- remove swaybar endline (2 bolts)
- unbolt lower balljoint (4 bolts)
- unbolt lower shock bolt
- push down on the control arm until the halfshaft can be coaxed off the flange
To put it back together: do all that but in reverse.
I found that wearing gloves helped immensly (though my mechanix gloves are now ruined from all the cv grease on them)
It took me about 2 1/2 hours to do it for my first time (and adding manual hubs at the same time though that added all of 5 minutes), and i'm not terribly handy with the wrench so i'm sure you could do it a lot faster.
- Take off wheel,
- Remove the golden cover on your add with a screwdriver and a hammer(or the top part of the clutch by removing the 6 10mm bolts for those with manual hubs)
-Take off the 12mm gold bolt and the snap ring that hold the cv to the hub
- Pray to god that you can remove the 6 nuts that hold the cv to the differential flange (even after liquid wrench mine required a breaker bar and a 1ft extension so that i could use the breaker bar in the wheel well, and a 17mm wrench on the flange to keep it from turning on me)
- see if you can get the cv off of the differential flange if not continue:
- remove swaybar endline (2 bolts)
- unbolt lower balljoint (4 bolts)
- unbolt lower shock bolt
- push down on the control arm until the halfshaft can be coaxed off the flange
To put it back together: do all that but in reverse.
I found that wearing gloves helped immensly (though my mechanix gloves are now ruined from all the cv grease on them)
It took me about 2 1/2 hours to do it for my first time (and adding manual hubs at the same time though that added all of 5 minutes), and i'm not terribly handy with the wrench so i'm sure you could do it a lot faster.
Last edited by tombothetominator; 05-29-2007 at 03:47 PM.
Yikes. It's probably nice and packed with road crud, thus causing your little problem.
05-29-2007, 05:15 PM
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replace them in pairs, the other one cant be far behind in going out. it is a relatively easy procedure as described above and yes, it is messy!
keep us posted.
lee
keep us posted.
lee
05-30-2007, 06:45 AM
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05-30-2007, 09:02 AM
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C'mon - the dude's thinking his truck might be "totalled" over this - just let him do one at a time!
Check the boots on the other side for cracks and tears. If they're similar to the broken one, replace the CV. If they're just looking brittle or slightly torn, you can save yourself a few bucks (not many) by just replacing the boots. If they're looking nice and smooth and air tight leave 'em alone.
Whatever you do, once it's fixed keep an eye on those boots. As long as the boots are in place and the joints are well-greased (and you don't just straight bust them) the CVs will go a LONG time. But once that boot opens up and lets the grease out and crud in they don't last long at all.
Check the boots on the other side for cracks and tears. If they're similar to the broken one, replace the CV. If they're just looking brittle or slightly torn, you can save yourself a few bucks (not many) by just replacing the boots. If they're looking nice and smooth and air tight leave 'em alone.
Whatever you do, once it's fixed keep an eye on those boots. As long as the boots are in place and the joints are well-greased (and you don't just straight bust them) the CVs will go a LONG time. But once that boot opens up and lets the grease out and crud in they don't last long at all.
