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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

CV boot leak

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Old May 2, 2010 | 08:30 PM
  #21  
Matt4Running's Avatar
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From: Kansas:but soon to be in Colorado
The split boot would be a temp.fix and I would not use 4WD until after its fixed properly.I just want to keep it encapsuled in grease in the mean time.Is that a mortal sin? Im slinging grease! Let me clarify for the reading impaired > I have no money > I have no tools > I have no work place to perform suggested task. LOL LOL..Thanks guys,really.
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Old May 2, 2010 | 09:26 PM
  #22  
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From: Nashville TN. I can help you if you're close BUT NOBODY CAN HELP YOU IF YOU DON'T FILL YOUR LOCATION IN!
Originally Posted by betelnut
Ahhh, thank you for saying that.

A law with harsh consequences for those who break it.

lol... Sounds like a man that's been there before...

I don't know how many times I've bought a truck, towed it home and started working on it, and wanted to go back and introduce the moron to my $10 Harbor Freight dead blow hammer...

I mean come on! If you don't know how to fix it STOP TRYING! And no, standard bolts shouldn't go back where metrics came out , just cuz you think you like it better that way! And no, they're not hydraulic valves! You do not adjust them with the engine running!

lol, did you read the 22rt thread? lol, see #3. "Go back and punch that guy square in the face for me", lol...

Last edited by tried4x2signN; May 2, 2010 at 09:27 PM.
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Old May 3, 2010 | 11:43 AM
  #23  
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From: Kansas:but soon to be in Colorado
Well I installed a speedi-boot and sealed the seam with the screws provided.I wasnt happy with that so I siliconed it with RTV.So far its holding the grease,staying together.

Last edited by Matt4Running; May 3, 2010 at 04:57 PM.
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Old May 3, 2010 | 11:57 AM
  #24  
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From: Nashville TN. I can help you if you're close BUT NOBODY CAN HELP YOU IF YOU DON'T FILL YOUR LOCATION IN!
I guess this is a bad time to mention this, but you should have searched a pull-a-part or CL for AISIN hubs instead of that split boot... If all you needed was quick fix...

1, you'd be better off leaving the shaft alone until you can fix it properly.

And 2, b/c the hubs will stop the shafts from spinning, you won't need to keep grease in.

Either way there is no load on the things unless it's in 4WD, so the desperation to fix the problem is actually not a high priority... Your just rust proofing a small section of your truck
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Old May 3, 2010 | 12:12 PM
  #25  
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From: Kansas:but soon to be in Colorado
Lol @ rustproofing,guess Im just trying to keep it from going dry.What a pita that split boot was.

Last edited by Matt4Running; May 3, 2010 at 04:54 PM.
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Old May 4, 2010 | 01:38 PM
  #26  
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From: Kansas:but soon to be in Colorado
Well the POS split boot is slinging grease.Guess I will leave it alone until it can be fixed properly.Im taking your advice now tried4x2signin,lol.Everyone says it wont hurt,just dont use 4x4 until its fixed.
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Old May 4, 2010 | 02:02 PM
  #27  
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From: Nashville TN. I can help you if you're close BUT NOBODY CAN HELP YOU IF YOU DON'T FILL YOUR LOCATION IN!
We've all been there... The only way of learning something is to actually do it. NBD.
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Old May 6, 2010 | 11:29 PM
  #28  
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By far, the hardest part of the CV boot replacement is the axle removal. Replacing the boot is easy.
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Old May 7, 2010 | 09:11 AM
  #29  
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From: Nashville TN. I can help you if you're close BUT NOBODY CAN HELP YOU IF YOU DON'T FILL YOUR LOCATION IN!
I think it's the inconvenience of getting the band tool and using it myself...

But all-in-all not as bad of a job as one might think.
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Old May 8, 2010 | 12:00 AM
  #30  
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From: Austin, TX
Originally Posted by tried4x2signN
I think it's the inconvenience of getting the band tool and using it myself...
Wait, buying a new tool is the hardest part? Heh, let me do it for you! I'd almost spend my own money, I love new tools so much. And I've had precious few tools that didn't pay for themselves the first time I've used them, compared to taking the problem to the local hack shop.
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Old May 8, 2010 | 05:25 AM
  #31  
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From: Overland Park, Kansas
If you buy the OEM boot kit no banding tool is needed.
The oem kit is very nice and easy to use.
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Old May 8, 2010 | 07:50 AM
  #32  
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From: the great Maine wilderness
Dude...just get a new axle and swap it... they are only like $75..... or go to a bone yard and get a set of manual locking hubs...prolly cost about the same as the axle, but I'd do them before the axle, so when u do replace the axle it wont get worn just driving down the road. I had a ripped boot on my rig for 2 yrs, before it finally let go on a trail, and the only reason it lasted that long is cuz of the manual hubs....
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Old May 8, 2010 | 07:50 PM
  #33  
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From: Nashville TN. I can help you if you're close BUT NOBODY CAN HELP YOU IF YOU DON'T FILL YOUR LOCATION IN!
Originally Posted by betelnut
Wait, buying a new tool

IIRC, you can pick one up at a store on a loan a tool program...

You basically buy it and return it when you're done...

To me it's the getting in a truck, riding down the road and finding one that I don't care for...

It's not the buying or using it... That's why I said that... I used to live in a BFE town and it still shows sometimes
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