custom 2nd gen
#1
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,382
Likes: 301
From: BC Canada
custom 2nd gen
so some of you have been asking , and I now have some ... "somewhat" pics of a build ..
cutting off the old panels
and panels removed
NEW custom panels sitting on top
cutting off the old panels
and panels removed
NEW custom panels sitting on top
#2
Contributing Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,055
Likes: 10
From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Not a big fan of them fenders but the quality looks ace!
I would like to see some custom rear bed skins for a 3rd gen pu that raise the wheel well to match the front
I would like to see some custom rear bed skins for a 3rd gen pu that raise the wheel well to match the front
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#8
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,382
Likes: 301
From: BC Canada
toyotafiberglass.com .... one of the fellas that got into the line-up early .
#9
Corey those actually look pretty good on the truck. Wasn't really sure how they'd look from the off vehicle pictures.
Anyplans on producing a complete box with the larger flare?
Oh yeah, what's you're booking schedule/production like? The more I'm thinking about it the more I want a new box.
Anyplans on producing a complete box with the larger flare?
Oh yeah, what's you're booking schedule/production like? The more I'm thinking about it the more I want a new box.
#10
I was wondering how you put support into the bed floor but I just checked on your site. Those beds look amazing.
I had alot of trouble with the floor of the box I had on my 84 cracking at the mounting points during hard landings. Ended up putting a 3/4 inch sheet of plywood under it and using angle iron to support the edges. Good call on using the wood to give it some mass too, I could literally squat the rear end of that truck off the ground by myself and I'm just a wee guy!
do you have to add flex agents to the mix when you paint them? I had piles of faint spider cracks on mine from what I assumed was flex and rocks hitting the underside.
I had alot of trouble with the floor of the box I had on my 84 cracking at the mounting points during hard landings. Ended up putting a 3/4 inch sheet of plywood under it and using angle iron to support the edges. Good call on using the wood to give it some mass too, I could literally squat the rear end of that truck off the ground by myself and I'm just a wee guy!
do you have to add flex agents to the mix when you paint them? I had piles of faint spider cracks on mine from what I assumed was flex and rocks hitting the underside.
#11
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,382
Likes: 301
From: BC Canada
Corey those actually look pretty good on the truck. Wasn't really sure how they'd look from the off vehicle pictures.
Anyplans on producing a complete box with the larger flare?
Oh yeah, what's you're booking schedule/production like? The more I'm thinking about it the more I want a new box.
Anyplans on producing a complete box with the larger flare?
Oh yeah, what's you're booking schedule/production like? The more I'm thinking about it the more I want a new box.
Bill ... already done ..
this is the mould picture .. so it does NOT have the corriguated floor .
you use the same front fenders as pictured above .
as for booking .. SUPER busy .. there is a wait time .
I was wondering how you put support into the bed floor but I just checked on your site. Those beds look amazing.
I had alot of trouble with the floor of the box I had on my 84 cracking at the mounting points during hard landings. Ended up putting a 3/4 inch sheet of plywood under it and using angle iron to support the edges. Good call on using the wood to give it some mass too, I could literally squat the rear end of that truck off the ground by myself and I'm just a wee guy!
do you have to add flex agents to the mix when you paint them? I had piles of faint spider cracks on mine from what I assumed was flex and rocks hitting the underside.
I had alot of trouble with the floor of the box I had on my 84 cracking at the mounting points during hard landings. Ended up putting a 3/4 inch sheet of plywood under it and using angle iron to support the edges. Good call on using the wood to give it some mass too, I could literally squat the rear end of that truck off the ground by myself and I'm just a wee guy!
do you have to add flex agents to the mix when you paint them? I had piles of faint spider cracks on mine from what I assumed was flex and rocks hitting the underside.
12 years .. and only 2 warranties . they are built tough . as you said , the wood works awesome as a bace , and it is totally sealed , also offers strength , and durability .. as well as , when completed , OUR bed and the stock bed weigh vertually the same .
the spiders are because of the resins , and proceedure used .. on our older pieces , we use to use a GP (general purpose) resin .. most manufactures do ... but because of shrinkage /telephotoing .. we opted for a better quality resin (all with NO increases in product pricing) on ALL of our pieces we now use ISO. resin (4 years now) We have basically illimated spider cracks , blisters and peals .. also basically NO shrinkage . I recommend painting as normal .
.
#15
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,382
Likes: 301
From: BC Canada
well not that its unbreakable (yet) .. but check it out ..
SLEDGE HAMMER
http://s76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...edgehammer.flv
more in the "vendors section" if you havent been convinced yet ... industry has come a LONG ways since the 60's
why thank you sir.
Last edited by slacker; Apr 15, 2007 at 08:14 PM.
#18
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,382
Likes: 301
From: BC Canada
please email me @ cj@toyotafiberglass.com so we stay ON topic here ..
Last edited by slacker; Apr 17, 2007 at 03:59 PM.
#19
That's killer. I'm more a fan of the rounded look, maybe that's why I'm a 1st/3rd gen p/u fan.
haha
please email me @ cj@toyotafiberglass.com so we stay ON topic here ..






