Crossover Elimination
#1
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Location: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
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Crossover Elimination
My local exhaust shop does mandrel bending. I am posting this to revisit the crossover elimination that has been discussed off an on the past 2 years or so infrequently. I was reading the original big thread about it just a few minutes ago. I think it might have been gone about wrong though personally.
This is what I think - I think the pipes that eliminate the crossover should be no larger than 1 3/4" in size. When they join, they should join into a 2 to 1 collector that joins 2 - 1 3/4" pipes into a 2 1/4" pipe, then have an O2 sensor bung on the 2 1/4" pipe, and your cat, and then your exhaust system.
Thoughts? Someone said the crossover pipe stock was 1.625 or something like that, hence thinking 1.75".
Is there any more interest in this topic at all?
This is what I think - I think the pipes that eliminate the crossover should be no larger than 1 3/4" in size. When they join, they should join into a 2 to 1 collector that joins 2 - 1 3/4" pipes into a 2 1/4" pipe, then have an O2 sensor bung on the 2 1/4" pipe, and your cat, and then your exhaust system.
Thoughts? Someone said the crossover pipe stock was 1.625 or something like that, hence thinking 1.75".
Is there any more interest in this topic at all?
#3
Registered User
I know this is not all that helpful but the "crossover" that would x-over at the bottom of my headers is made from 2 inch pipe there.... Im not sure if that helps your theory on pipe size any...
I will measure the stock x-over pipe size tomorrow if noone chimes in with it for you...
kat
Last edited by justinking060310; 03-27-2007 at 02:49 PM.
#4
Contributing Member
Mandel bender at your local exhaust shop... you dog you. There isn't a mendel bender in the whole state of Oklahoma.
Here's is the ORS custom cross-over, might give you some ideas. It's for a 3.4 and 2.5" IIRC. Note it has a flex coupling, when made without a flex coupling they were breaking rather quickly.
Here's is the ORS custom cross-over, might give you some ideas. It's for a 3.4 and 2.5" IIRC. Note it has a flex coupling, when made without a flex coupling they were breaking rather quickly.
#6
Contributing Member
Here's the ORS site Kat:
http://www.offroadsolutions.com/prod...e_upgrades.htm
Looks like Mike is getting $350 for them now.
http://www.offroadsolutions.com/prod...e_upgrades.htm
Looks like Mike is getting $350 for them now.
#7
Registered User
am i missing why you would not put headers on for that kind of money. the only reason i can think of is the PIA install.
I have 429 into my ceramic headers and x-over..
if you make your own, of course, thats a whole lot cheaper and logical
I have 429 into my ceramic headers and x-over..
if you make your own, of course, thats a whole lot cheaper and logical
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#8
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There are some drawbacks to headers as I see it, not saying they aren't (or are) a good option, but here are some things people have had trouble with.
Extra heat in places not designed for heat, like near brake lines, fuel lines, fuel filter, wiring, starter, etc.
Blown exhaust manifold gaskets, there are some tricks to help with that like cutting the header manifold between the exhaust ports and getting a flat header manifold.
Depending on the routing of the cross-over less clearance for off roading.
Extra heat in places not designed for heat, like near brake lines, fuel lines, fuel filter, wiring, starter, etc.
Blown exhaust manifold gaskets, there are some tricks to help with that like cutting the header manifold between the exhaust ports and getting a flat header manifold.
Depending on the routing of the cross-over less clearance for off roading.
Last edited by mt_goat; 03-27-2007 at 06:41 PM.
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