cost to have engine timed
Mar 30, 2009 | 05:55 AM
#41
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From: Northern Colorado :-(
You don't have to remove the plugs, if you never removed the dist you don't need to do that. I went the the advice from Thook and it's running fine. I have a bit of a valve tap but that could be another issue. If you do not like it at 5 make it 7. Listen to it run as well if it's too far it will tell you.
I also wanted to remove the plugs to see how they looked. See if I'm burning a major amount of oil or running the engine too rich.
Mar 30, 2009 | 06:05 AM
#42
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From: Just North of Pittsburgh
Alright, I guess I missed the part that you had the head off. My bad. I'll go back to when I did mine. I had it all together and I was 1 tooth off, just a bit retarded and it would not run I had it floored it just barely idled, had a buddy trying to adjust the timing. Then took great care of slowly moving the dist out slowly until I felt it give, moved it 1 tooth and all was well.
Mar 31, 2009 | 12:17 PM
#43
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From: Northern Colorado :-(
So I got the engine timed dead on. Yay! Wasn't that hard. I parked my truck in the darkest corner of the parking garage and warmed the thing up (i think I found a new permanent parking space, too :-) )
The darkness made the timing mark very easy to see. I was asking about using white out or something else to mark the belt or pulley because the mark was hard to see. But in this dark, dark corner it stood out.
So now I have it timed and we'll see how it drives :-) thanks for all the help.
While I was messing around under the truck, I noticed my exhaust pipe was splitting at a joint. It was bending and I'm guessing I now have an exhaust leak. But that's another issue that's going to be fixed in a few months.
The darkness made the timing mark very easy to see. I was asking about using white out or something else to mark the belt or pulley because the mark was hard to see. But in this dark, dark corner it stood out.
So now I have it timed and we'll see how it drives :-) thanks for all the help.
While I was messing around under the truck, I noticed my exhaust pipe was splitting at a joint. It was bending and I'm guessing I now have an exhaust leak. But that's another issue that's going to be fixed in a few months.
Mar 31, 2009 | 04:20 PM
#44
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From: Longmont, CO
We can help fix that too.
Apr 1, 2009 | 05:12 AM
#46
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From: Northern Colorado :-(
After timing the engine and test driving it, it hesitated a bit while accelerating. I unplugged the O2 sensor and the hesitation went away. Now I have an O2 issue.
But even with O2 plugged in and still unplugged, it idles really rough for about 20 seconds at a light. So now I'm lost again. Might end up replacing the whole engine.
Apr 4, 2009 | 05:24 AM
#47
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From: Northern Colorado :-(
So it's almost been a week with the engine timed, and I now have an afterfire I've traced the cause to the engine timing. Since that's the only thing that's changed on my engine, I can only assume that's the cause.
After some research, I found out an afterfire is caused by unburned gases and hydrocarbons igniting in the exhaust. The cause is most likely a rich mixture.
Now is my mixture rich? Or just timed badly? Should I try retarding my timing, and if so, by how much? I timed it at 5 degrees TDC and 7 degrees TDC. I never had an afterfire when I timed the engine by ear, and it ran pretty nicely (idled rough)
After some research, I found out an afterfire is caused by unburned gases and hydrocarbons igniting in the exhaust. The cause is most likely a rich mixture.
Now is my mixture rich? Or just timed badly? Should I try retarding my timing, and if so, by how much? I timed it at 5 degrees TDC and 7 degrees TDC. I never had an afterfire when I timed the engine by ear, and it ran pretty nicely (idled rough)
Apr 4, 2009 | 08:55 AM
#48
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From: Longmont, CO
I may have asked this already, but when did you last do spark plugs, cap, rotor, wires, etc?
5* BTDC is correct with the jumper and the tranny in neutral (if automatic), so it's time to move down the troublsehooting path. Timing won't fix everything. The engine will be a bit inclined to run rich here at altitude, but the O2 sensor and ECU should bring it back in after a while.
Thoughts:
TPS - http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
Cat - is it plugged?
O2 sensor - when was it replaced last? It has to go REALLY bad before it will throw a CEL. Here's how to check it: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...42oxygense.pdf
ECU - let's hope not
Could have a dead cylinder that is pumping unburned gas into the exhaust. Possible causes:
- no spark (that's why I asked about cap/rotor/plugs/wires above)
- no compression (need to run a compression test)
5* BTDC is correct with the jumper and the tranny in neutral (if automatic), so it's time to move down the troublsehooting path. Timing won't fix everything. The engine will be a bit inclined to run rich here at altitude, but the O2 sensor and ECU should bring it back in after a while.
Thoughts:
TPS - http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
Cat - is it plugged?
O2 sensor - when was it replaced last? It has to go REALLY bad before it will throw a CEL. Here's how to check it: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...42oxygense.pdf
ECU - let's hope not
Could have a dead cylinder that is pumping unburned gas into the exhaust. Possible causes:
- no spark (that's why I asked about cap/rotor/plugs/wires above)
- no compression (need to run a compression test)
Last edited by tc; Apr 4, 2009 at 08:58 AM.
Apr 4, 2009 | 09:03 AM
#49
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I would pull the plugs and if they all look the same and good, check compression. That will tell you everything you need to know.
If you don't know what you're looking for, post a picture of each plug(make sure you know which cylinder each plug came out of) and post the compression test results.
If you don't know what you're looking for, post a picture of each plug(make sure you know which cylinder each plug came out of) and post the compression test results.
Apr 4, 2009 | 09:48 AM
#50
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From: Tacoma, Washington
I do it by ear and so far Im dead on.
The steps:
one: remove the #1 spark plug and take it out of gear set the parking brake
two: place finger in the #1 hole rotate crank shaft with a socket or special tool, i use a tire tool from a mazda 323
three: rotate tell you get a wosh sound that wants to blow your finger off.
four: do it again to be sure
five: set to 5* before top dead center
six: remove dizzy and cap rotate tell you get it pointing to #1. On the gear end it has tow
notches match them up.
seven: insert very carefully!
eight: adjust tell you have the star point lining up with the little strip of metal at the
bottom front side.
nine: put it back together and remove the socket!
ten: fine adjustment and take to a dealer if your unsure of what you have done...
I can do this in my sleep and i do it just for kicks.
The steps:
one: remove the #1 spark plug and take it out of gear set the parking brake
two: place finger in the #1 hole rotate crank shaft with a socket or special tool, i use a tire tool from a mazda 323
three: rotate tell you get a wosh sound that wants to blow your finger off.
four: do it again to be sure
five: set to 5* before top dead center
six: remove dizzy and cap rotate tell you get it pointing to #1. On the gear end it has tow
notches match them up.
seven: insert very carefully!
eight: adjust tell you have the star point lining up with the little strip of metal at the
bottom front side.
nine: put it back together and remove the socket!
ten: fine adjustment and take to a dealer if your unsure of what you have done...
I can do this in my sleep and i do it just for kicks.
Apr 4, 2009 | 09:59 AM
#51
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From: Fairbanks Ak
Are you sure your doing it right #1 is right at the front of the engine. I could go take pictures cause im doing it today. i just got a new light and tachometer! I had to replace my old one cause it is 2300 miles away from me.
the way i did it at first is that i had old huge engines to learn on. think basic, mason jar basic with a tp roll as a oil filter.
EDIT: that diesel sound it the Toyota signature, its their way of saying they love you.
Last edited by spanish-road; Apr 4, 2009 at 10:01 AM.
Apr 4, 2009 | 10:11 AM
#52
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From: Fairbanks Ak
This is how I do it as well and I use a vaccuum timing gauge to fine tune my distrubutor adjustments. I have used my timing light in the past but after extensive modifications to my engine the factory settings no longer apply, in fact if i set my motor to factory settings it will run like a deisel or not run at all.
Apr 4, 2009 | 10:28 AM
#53
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From: Northern Colorado :-(
plugs, rotor and wires were all replaced about 6000 miles ago during the head gasket job. I did a compression test on each cylinder a while back and got about 160 psi per cylinder. I checked each plug wire and pulled to test each cylinder and see if i could fine a dead cylinder. They all seem good, as are the injector wires. I may change the plugs just for the heck of it. o2 sensor are unplugged for testing and theyre due to be replaced in a week or two. why would the rotation of the distributor affect o2 sensors?
Apr 4, 2009 | 11:15 AM
#55
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plugs, rotor and wires were all replaced about 6000 miles ago during the head gasket job. I did a compression test on each cylinder a while back and got about 160 psi per cylinder. I checked each plug wire and pulled to test each cylinder and see if i could fine a dead cylinder. They all seem good, as are the injector wires. I may change the plugs just for the heck of it. o2 sensor are unplugged for testing and theyre due to be replaced in a week or two. why would the rotation of the distributor affect o2 sensors?
Apr 4, 2009 | 11:46 AM
#56
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From: Northern Colorado :-(
the plugs and wires were done a rough estimated 6000 miles ago. i checked the plugs and did a compression test about not even 1500 miles ago. And i just last night unplugged the o2 sensor to give me back my horsepower and keep it from being sluggish. Its still afterfiring though, but its doing it a whole lot less now that theyre unplugged
Apr 4, 2009 | 11:58 AM
#57
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Spark plugs constantly change. Even if you checked them 15 miles ago that still doesn't tell you what's going on right now. When we tune motorcycles we run the motor at the desired range that needs tuning adjustments and kill the motor, check the plugs and go from there.
You don't seem to want to look into any of the obvious solutions. That's not going to get anything fixed. Why not check and re-check everything to make sure it's CURRENTLY operating properly. You can't just rule everything out as a possible problem because it was working properly a while ago. I've installed brand new parts that were defective plenty of times. If I would have ruled out the brand new part as being a problem simply because it was new I would have never figured out the problem.
Good luck.
You don't seem to want to look into any of the obvious solutions. That's not going to get anything fixed. Why not check and re-check everything to make sure it's CURRENTLY operating properly. You can't just rule everything out as a possible problem because it was working properly a while ago. I've installed brand new parts that were defective plenty of times. If I would have ruled out the brand new part as being a problem simply because it was new I would have never figured out the problem.
Good luck.
Apr 4, 2009 | 12:19 PM
#58
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From: Northern Colorado :-(
Spark plugs constantly change. Even if you checked them 15 miles ago that still doesn't tell you what's going on right now. When we tune motorcycles we run the motor at the desired range that needs tuning adjustments and kill the motor, check the plugs and go from there.
You don't seem to want to look into any of the obvious solutions. That's not going to get anything fixed. Why not check and re-check everything to make sure it's CURRENTLY operating properly. You can't just rule everything out as a possible problem because it was working properly a while ago. I've installed brand new parts that were defective plenty of times. If I would have ruled out the brand new part as being a problem simply because it was new I would have never figured out the problem.
Good luck.
You don't seem to want to look into any of the obvious solutions. That's not going to get anything fixed. Why not check and re-check everything to make sure it's CURRENTLY operating properly. You can't just rule everything out as a possible problem because it was working properly a while ago. I've installed brand new parts that were defective plenty of times. If I would have ruled out the brand new part as being a problem simply because it was new I would have never figured out the problem.
Good luck.
Apr 4, 2009 | 12:22 PM
#59
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From: Longmont, CO
Got enough $ for gas down to Longmont? The offer was made several times to help you out...
Last edited by tc; Apr 4, 2009 at 12:26 PM.
Apr 4, 2009 | 01:56 PM
#60
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From: Northern Colorado :-(
You can throw parts at it, or you can go through a systematic diagnosis and find out the real problem and fix it, or you can band-aid it together and get it to run for a little while, then be fighting it again.
X1000000
Got enough $ for gas down to Longmont? The offer was made several times to help you out...
X1000000
Got enough $ for gas down to Longmont? The offer was made several times to help you out...
by "disappeared" i mean i left a few under the hood and drove off.
I'm ordering the o2 sensor and buying some new plugs (and plug socket) and seeing if that changed anything. If that fails, what else should I look for? Could the TPS be an issue, even though I just adjusted it? Malfunctioning?
Last edited by DupermanDave; Apr 4, 2009 at 05:54 PM.
