cost efficient way to regear?
Sep 21, 2008 | 07:22 PM
#24
Contributing Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,464
Likes: 6
From: Arvada, Colorado
Gear installs are one of those things where you have to pay to play.
I have done mine myself. TC and I have done his rear together. It was quite involved, took a LOT of time, and requires specialty tools, so factor them into your cost. After 45k miles on my rear diff (front has a lot less) I have great wear, and no issues.
I cannot stress enough how this is NOT trivial. If you have time, patience and a good mechanical sense, you can do it yourself. Otherwise, a quality shop is where you need to go.
The key word is QUALITY. They may cost more, but its worth it.
If you pay the cheapest place, and they set them up wrong, you will be paying for new gears, and likely a new diff, not to mention axles, seals, and bearings. A few hundred extra in good parts, and good labor is worth it.
I have done mine myself. TC and I have done his rear together. It was quite involved, took a LOT of time, and requires specialty tools, so factor them into your cost. After 45k miles on my rear diff (front has a lot less) I have great wear, and no issues.
I cannot stress enough how this is NOT trivial. If you have time, patience and a good mechanical sense, you can do it yourself. Otherwise, a quality shop is where you need to go.
The key word is QUALITY. They may cost more, but its worth it.
If you pay the cheapest place, and they set them up wrong, you will be paying for new gears, and likely a new diff, not to mention axles, seals, and bearings. A few hundred extra in good parts, and good labor is worth it.
Sep 21, 2008 | 08:26 PM
#25
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,799
Likes: 3
From: oregon
Gear installs are one of those things where you have to pay to play.
I have done mine myself. TC and I have done his rear together. It was quite involved, took a LOT of time, and requires specialty tools, so factor them into your cost. After 45k miles on my rear diff (front has a lot less) I have great wear, and no issues.
I cannot stress enough how this is NOT trivial. If you have time, patience and a good mechanical sense, you can do it yourself. Otherwise, a quality shop is where you need to go.
The key word is QUALITY. They may cost more, but its worth it.
If you pay the cheapest place, and they set them up wrong, you will be paying for new gears, and likely a new diff, not to mention axles, seals, and bearings. A few hundred extra in good parts, and good labor is worth it.
I have done mine myself. TC and I have done his rear together. It was quite involved, took a LOT of time, and requires specialty tools, so factor them into your cost. After 45k miles on my rear diff (front has a lot less) I have great wear, and no issues.
I cannot stress enough how this is NOT trivial. If you have time, patience and a good mechanical sense, you can do it yourself. Otherwise, a quality shop is where you need to go.
The key word is QUALITY. They may cost more, but its worth it.
If you pay the cheapest place, and they set them up wrong, you will be paying for new gears, and likely a new diff, not to mention axles, seals, and bearings. A few hundred extra in good parts, and good labor is worth it.
.it was a pain in the arse. i must have pulled it apart like 10 times, finally i got a good pattern.
im hoping my second one will go together a lil faster/easier.
go here http://www.gearinstalls.com/ if you want an idea of what it consists of. zuk is the man!
Sep 21, 2008 | 08:52 PM
#26
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Joined: Jun 2008
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Yes, they will bolt up but there might be a few things you need to do:
1. The v6's used a different pinion flange pattern, you can drill new holes to fit your 4cyl driveshaft if you want. Or you can get tripple drilled flanges from marlin crawler and alike..
2. The new rear diff will probibly have a rear ABS hookup, if yours does not you can just snip the pigtail comming out of the third. Or remove and replace with a brass plug (the abs sensors are worth some money)
3. The front diff will have ADD. So you will need to disable the vaccum operated actuator to stay locked.. Not hard.
Other then that, its a 100% direct bolt in..
1. The v6's used a different pinion flange pattern, you can drill new holes to fit your 4cyl driveshaft if you want. Or you can get tripple drilled flanges from marlin crawler and alike..
2. The new rear diff will probibly have a rear ABS hookup, if yours does not you can just snip the pigtail comming out of the third. Or remove and replace with a brass plug (the abs sensors are worth some money)
3. The front diff will have ADD. So you will need to disable the vaccum operated actuator to stay locked.. Not hard.
Other then that, its a 100% direct bolt in..
oh and about step number 3... how exactly would i go about doing that?
Sep 21, 2008 | 10:21 PM
#27
Contributing Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,336
Likes: 2
From: Harrisburg, PA
the actuator has two vacuum hookups, one for disconnecting the sleeve, and one for connecting it. you have a 50/50 chance that one or the other will work. simply apply the vacuum line to one side, and test your 4wd, you'll know whether or not its locked in. if it's not, switch it to the other side, and it'll lock right in.
or you could simply weld the ADD sleeve shut, as many have successfully done.
or, lastly, you have the option of finding a non-ADD differential (the one in your truck if you aren't going to sell it) and taking its solid axle shaft and housing off and bolting it on to your carrier. personally, that is what I plan to do, as I don't like the fact that I have a vulnerable rubber hose determining whether or not I'm going to use my 4wd, or the fact that the weld could break.
good luck and happy hunting!
Jay, a locker-type device is not affected by Toyota's 4.88 gear design? I am looking at a 4runner with 4.88's and I'd wanna add a locker of some sort, put in a manual transmission, and run 33's.
Sep 21, 2008 | 10:52 PM
#28
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,094
Likes: 0
From: South
or, lastly, you have the option of finding a non-ADD differential (the one in your truck if you aren't going to sell it) and taking its solid axle shaft and housing off and bolting it on to your carrier. personally, that is what I plan to do, as I don't like the fact that I have a vulnerable rubber hose determining whether or not I'm going to use my 4wd, or the fact that the weld could break.
Sep 22, 2008 | 03:15 PM
#29
Contributing Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,055
Likes: 10
From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Rather simple. You run a vacuum line to one side of the actuator, and it pulls in the ADD sleeve at all times. this is how my truck is done.
the actuator has two vacuum hookups, one for disconnecting the sleeve, and one for connecting it. you have a 50/50 chance that one or the other will work. simply apply the vacuum line to one side, and test your 4wd, you'll know whether or not its locked in. if it's not, switch it to the other side, and it'll lock right in.
or you could simply weld the ADD sleeve shut, as many have successfully done.
or, lastly, you have the option of finding a non-ADD differential (the one in your truck if you aren't going to sell it) and taking its solid axle shaft and housing off and bolting it on to your carrier. personally, that is what I plan to do, as I don't like the fact that I have a vulnerable rubber hose determining whether or not I'm going to use my 4wd, or the fact that the weld could break.
good luck and happy hunting!
Jay, a locker-type device is not affected by Toyota's 4.88 gear design? I am looking at a 4runner with 4.88's and I'd wanna add a locker of some sort, put in a manual transmission, and run 33's.
the actuator has two vacuum hookups, one for disconnecting the sleeve, and one for connecting it. you have a 50/50 chance that one or the other will work. simply apply the vacuum line to one side, and test your 4wd, you'll know whether or not its locked in. if it's not, switch it to the other side, and it'll lock right in.
or you could simply weld the ADD sleeve shut, as many have successfully done.
or, lastly, you have the option of finding a non-ADD differential (the one in your truck if you aren't going to sell it) and taking its solid axle shaft and housing off and bolting it on to your carrier. personally, that is what I plan to do, as I don't like the fact that I have a vulnerable rubber hose determining whether or not I'm going to use my 4wd, or the fact that the weld could break.
good luck and happy hunting!
Jay, a locker-type device is not affected by Toyota's 4.88 gear design? I am looking at a 4runner with 4.88's and I'd wanna add a locker of some sort, put in a manual transmission, and run 33's.
Not at all
I put a lockright in the rear of my truck ( 93 4runner gears)
Sep 22, 2008 | 05:45 PM
#31
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,336
Likes: 2
From: Harrisburg, PA
whatever yard you choose, you will need to find a 92+ Toyota 4Runner/Pickup with a V6 engine and an automatic transmission to go with the 4.88's.
Sep 22, 2008 | 05:55 PM
#32
Contributing Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,055
Likes: 10
From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Remember, it needs to have the big tire package to have the 4.88's.
If you can find a yota in a normal junkyard you can usually get the parts for much cheaper. Once you start going to yota specific yards, they tend to want alot more... I guess they know what they have
If you can find a yota in a normal junkyard you can usually get the parts for much cheaper. Once you start going to yota specific yards, they tend to want alot more... I guess they know what they have
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