Just_ Rollin'

I just did my timing belt and replaced the water pump and the idler bearing and basically everything I could while I was down there.

The front water outlet (that protrudes from the timing cover and goes to the radiator) is leaking coolant. Now I prepped the surface very well and cleaned it off with alcohol and then laid down a moderate bead of permatex #2. It is still squishy and didn't really form into a gasket IMO two days later. It deforms easily with light pressure from my finger.

I will use genuine Toyota FIPG on this inlet once I clean it off and re-prep the surface but I used the same stuff on the main idler bearing and the water pump.

Has anyone had experience with this? The water pump and main idler bearing had gaskets and I used some Permatex in addition but I am stressing out about having to potentially tear this down again so what went wrong here? The Permatex is black btw.

millball

I like Permatex #2 for many oil sealing apps. It is an old school product that used to be recommended for joining VW cases and the like. It is only soluable in alcohol, not petroleum oils, and it never hardens completely.
I don't think it's the best choice for coolant sealing apps, but if you've got a good seal with no leaks on your other components, I'd leave it alone and keep an eye on it for a while..
If you used gaskets coated with the P- #2 it should be OK.
Let us know what happens.

Just_ Rollin'

I am thinking that although the main idler bearing surface was flat (it is brand new) and the water inlet was not, and even was pitted, that that must be it.

It was also leaking from one of those tension hose clamps and I attribute this to how pitted the radiator outlet is. Need to go over that with a wire wheel.

I'll try my Toyota FIPG on that water inlet piece and see where that gets me. But if that Permatex is good stuff then it must have been the surfaces.

brianvolt7

I just did both head gaskets and had to also do this. I used Permatex Blue RTV on the water intake with timing belt roller, no leaks. Then the knock sensor went out, which requires removal of the intake manifold, and again redid this with Blue no issue. Now today had to remove it for another reason, as I have posted in another thread, and used blue RTV. Ran water into it 10 minutes after sitting, no leaks. I recommend Permatex blue RTV.

YotaWoRx

R u sure the holes the studs thread into are not stripped out?

Just_ Rollin'

Yeah, these are good and tight. Torqued to 11 ft/lb per FSM.

YotaWoRx

Are u talking about the 4 nuts that hold the water intake/idler bearing to the intake or the 2 10mm nuts on the water outlet?

Just_ Rollin'

2 bolts on the water outlet. The main idler bearing may be leaking too but I have no way to tell just yet.

EDIT: was doing some reading and there IS a Toyota FIPG for coolant seperate from the FIPG 103 that I am using, which is apparently only for oil contact like the pan and valve covers. However, I read just as much information about people successfully using the FIPG 103 with coolant contact, like the water pump and the water oulet, main idler bearing, etc.

I've got the new FIPG 103 on the water outlet so lets see how it goes....

Just_ Rollin'

OK, used Toyota FIPG 103 black on it this time and its leaking coolant again. Curiously from the same spot, the lower left corner. I hear good things about the "right stuff" from Permatex so I am going to go see what Autozone has.

Darryl01088

You could have a gouge in the surface, over tightened it causing housing to warp?I have seen some leak thru the studs. Did either of the studs come out when u removed the housing? If so, they have to be wet installed with sealant.
I had an issue with a Nissan 200sx leaking from the thermostat housing after replacing a thermostat. It sounds locked you did everything right but it never hurts to double check.
Clean it really well with a gasket scraper or razor blade. Make sure there are no irregularities, follow up with emery cloth or scotchbrite. Apply a thin bead of sealant to one surface whichever is easier. Carefully place the housing on without sliding it/ try to place it on dead nuts. Carefully torque the nuts evenly. Allow it to setup overnight 10-12 hours before topping off coolant. Good luck


I try to Avoid using solvents because they may be incompatible...

Just_ Rollin'

I FINALLY finished removing the FIPG which was much more difficult to remove than the Permatex #2. Interestingly the FIPG seemed to be cured in some areas but raw/wet in others, not sure if this was due to contact with coolant or air or what. Anyways, I got Permatex #1 "the Right Stuff" and put that on after I has used some razor blades, fine grit paper, carb cleaner, and finally iso alcohol. It seems to have worked because upon running and doing a drive around the block it isn't leaking.

Also, when I unscrewed the bolts last time I noticed they were very loose and I think I only finger tightened them. I did torque down the nuts to their proper 11 ft/lb but if the bolts themselves hadn't been tightened then that could have thrown off the whole thing. So if anyone else does this, make sure the bolts are tight before you go ahead and torque down the bolts. I didn't see specs on the actual bolts in the FSM unfortunately but I think I did them to about 50-100 in/lb.

I did use the Permatex # 2 on the water pump (with a gasket) and the main idler bearing with its rubber gasket but I am feeling a bit better about those because they had 2 days to set before adding coolant. The water inlet housing that goes over the thermostat is not leaking even though I only used Permatex on it without a gasket.

Hopefully that's the end of this issue. I do recommend the "right stuff" because its super easy to use but at $15 it was a bit of coin.