Mud-n-Rox

So I'm trying to replace the wheel bearings on my 93 pick up, but the cone washers holding the hubs on are seized. I've soaked them with rust penetrant, hit the top of the stud with a brass drift, used a torch to heat up the stud and washer, tried to rotate the washer by wedging a screw driver in the slot of the washer, and even tried to use a pair of vise grips to get it loose. nothing is working. I am at a loss here, and hate bring my truck to have other people work on it. Any suggestions?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I have found a Air Hammer works wonders just for the vibration with a round bit made for pushing out pins. you don`t want to damage anything

Then I use Kroil also . If your stuck for the price of the gas to drive down and home I would be glad to help you .

You really don`t want to have just anyone work on these.

This is one of reasons I love my Warn Hubs at least in the great Salt belt.

If you do get them apart Never Seize before reassembly to make them easier for next time.:wabbit2:

warmonger88

I personally hate those washers. every one of my yotas have had a grip of those stuck on. I use a thin steel wedge(which I broke doing this on my 84) and drive it down the slot in the cone. Once I have that channel open a bit, I spray them down twice a day for three days with liquid wrench. Once I had to drive a wedge between the chrome riser on my hub and the rotor to pop them. I wouldn't suggest that though, as I also trashed the chrome side of the hub. I even drilled down the split on the cone washer once so I could hammer a chisel in there at an angle to try and spin them free. I alway get them off, but when you put them back together, buy a whole new set and put some permtex anti-seize ont the tapered side before installation. Guess nobody thought of that at the factory......

riddarunner

Make sure you thread the nuts on a few turns as the cone washers will shoot off trust me it hurts if they fly off with out a nut there. So once you have the nuts on the studs take a hammer and strike the WHEEL HUB flat centered above the stud, do this over all the studs. If this doesn't work set your purse down and repeat I speak from experience

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Try a deep well 12mm socket on an extension. Put it over the studs and directly give the cone washers a few good whacks. Breaks the surface rust up holding them on.

Getting off cone washers requires more diligence and patience than brute force.

I've got hundreds of the things in coffee cans as I've taken off just a few

:wabbit2:

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

I did the same on my axle that had sat out by the coast for a few years and it got them off.

Lycanistic

I just use cone washer pliers, autozone... 5$.

rustyf99

iTrader: (1)

Mine came right off after an overnight soak of PB Blaster and some taps on the side of the hub with a 2lb. maul. I left the nuts on loosely so the cone washers didn't fly off at me. The looked rusted badly but the sideways tapping popped them right out.

However, I am missing one (which was missing when I took it apart) ... how important are they, and where do you get replacements? The guy at Autozone looked at me like I had asked for a warp drive engine. The Ace Hardware guy pointed me to the plumbing section...???

OrRunner

iTrader: (1)

just did these on friday, had 3 rusted pretty good, ended up with a chisel and hammer tapping them out, could prob re-use them, but you can get them a the dealer for 3.99 EACH!

RickyZ

I just had mine off Saturday when I changed my cv axles and I must have gotten lucky. I just hit em on the side with a hammer and chisel and they loosened up fairly easy. Hearing the horror stories has me thinking about popping em off again and rubbing some anti sieze on tho...

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Wabbit you really need to Come up North and see first hand what it is like to remove original parts from vehicles 20 plus years old.

Toyota vehicles being some of the better ones.

Mud-n-Rox

I'll have to give some of these a try. Also I don't live in Carbondale anymore, I am now in Seattle so thanks for the offer to help, but I don't think I'll make that drive.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

That might be just a little expensive!!!

DixieThunder

what part of Seattle?

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

That's why I live in Alabamee. I don't have to waste money on shoes, indoor plumbing or sleeves.

:wabbit2:

truckmike26

The drive flange trucks come with 8mm threaded holes to press off the flanges with an 8mm bolt to press off the flanges.

Mud-n-Rox

Northgate. I wish it was the kind that had the bolt holes to press it out. Another problem is that I live in an apartment building and the parking garage has little light and no power outlets. I'll see what I can do this weekend.

DixieThunder

Welp.... I can't make any promises because I do not know yet if I have Monday off like I usually do but I possibly could come up Monday if you need an extra hand. I know you said that you tried the brass drift already but that's how I've gotten mine off. I've done mine about 3 times now. The trick for me was using a decent sized hammer. Haha hence why I now have a 3 pound sledge in my tool bag. If I were to help you out on Monday, schedule permitting, That's how I'd attack it. Before you laugh me off know that my truck was an East Coast truck I drove out here last July. It was not easy by any means to get more than a few of them out! Anyways just let me know if you would like the help and I'll let you know if I can make it.

96vettelt4

anyone know if anyone besides the dealer sells the cones? ive looked at most of the places and not coming up with anything...thanx....G

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

if you do a basic google search of "toyota cone washers" you will find literally DOZENS of places to buy them.