JohnnyCanuck

Ditto, I've used a pickle fork over a dozen times over the years, never had a problem, you can buy them for $10.

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

I know not a Toyota but I replaced my dads pitman arm on his 2500 and removed it with a pickle fork. Once everything was back together the steering was super tight. Using the pickle fork removing the pitman arm misaligned the shaft in the steering box and caused it to leak. I was in trade school at the time and the teacher told me to use to fork after I asked him should I use a puller. It only cost us a steering box. Leave the pickle fork for tie rod ends.

JohnnyCanuck

You lost a steering box using a pickle fork? Ouch!

Zekang

so im finally getting around to doing the idle arm and pitman (just put on the idle) now im doing the castle nut and i dont know how much torque to put on it.. the manual that was linked says

Torque (Turning): 0.5 – 2.9 N¿ m
(5 – 30 kgf–cm, 5 – 26 in.¿lbf)

but i dont really understand that lol.. any ideas?

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

I always tighten as much as I can then put a cotter pin through it. Just don't loosen it to put in the cotter pin always tighten.

RSR

Consult the FSM: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...g/16steer0.pdf 43 ft lbs for 4x4.

Zekang

ah k tyvm.. almost done just took off the pitman arm mwahahahaha

Zekang

hey so.. one more question if you guys would.. does the grease type matter? i got all purpose grease from the store... im not sure if i even need to add anything to it at this point.. but other than 1 stripped bolt/nut? on where the idle arm attaches to the frame it went pretty smooth i really appreciate all the help guys.. this was fun lol next weekend i need to replace a cv joint i think.. the sleeve? thing is nearly cut in half lol

RSR

NGLI #2 works for most applications. Some drivetrain zerks are moly.

Just got the Amsoil synthetic, and like it more than the coastal high performance stuff I'd been using.

Zekang

hey.. so when i inserted the grease stud? thing.. lol idk what its called.. the spot where ya can add grease to the pitman/idler arm.. one of them didnt go in all the way.. its in solid enough that its not gonna fall out but i dont think i put it in completely straight and it kinda got stuck 1/2 - 3/4 of the way in.. that shouldnt be a problem right? also i dropped one of them in the dirt.. i cleaned it out the best i could but it still had a really small ammt of dirt in it.. i figure that shouldnt cuase an issue should it?

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

I'm guessing your taking about the grease zerk. You might have cross threaded it, shouldn't be a problem. If dirt got in it you could try and pump some grease through it when it's removed. If dirt is in it the dirt will be pushed into whatever part you just replaced. Grease zerks are cheap, always a good idea to have some extra incase some break off too

Zekang

ah k.. well hell... hopefully it doesnt cause too many problems.. if it does i can always replace it again i guess lol

anywho i just wanted to say thanks again to everyone who helped me out with this.. this was my first experience with anything mechanical and its been a blast.. looking forward to replacing the cv joints and figuring out where those leaks (power steering and break fluid are both leaking)

RSR

My pitman came w/ a removable bolt (very small) and a temporary zerk to insert grease. Not sure why there's a zerk on the idler. My OEM equivalent 555 is just a straight post with some grease under the grease boot for lubrication I guess... If you had a little bolt come preinstalled, you'll want to put it back in after greasing. Those zerks can snap off on the frame if you leave them in when not supposed to.

Congrats on taking the leap to maintain your own automobile! Not only will you save $, you'll also take far better care of / when working on your vehicle than if you pay someone else to do it...

RAD4Runner

Thanks, Arlindsay1992; That's very kind of you. for sharing your steering ans suspension job videos!

Hi guys,
After I had my wheels aligned, I found play in my idler arm. Do you think I would need another alignment after I replace the idler arm or, should I simply see if truck pulls to either side after the replacement?

TIA.

arlindsay1992

iTrader: (8)

I didn't get an alignment after I replaced my idler arm. If you just bought brand new tires then you might want to but I don't think it's necessary. I have a lifetime alignment through Firestone. If you buy one of those it pays for itself after the third alignment.

RAD4Runner

Thanks again, and best regards.

RSR

If the alignment shop charged you for alignment w/ suspension play, they shouldn't have. Most alignments have a 30 day warranty on them, so I'd replace, take it back, and make them do it for free (check the print out to ensure it's actually w/in spec)...

I too have firestone lifetime and take it in every 6 months after my tire rotation (or sooner if messing w/ front suspension/steering)..

RAD4Runner

Thanks, RSR. I think a lifetime plan is a good idea, especially since I'm planning to refurbish the suspension a step at a time (weekend projects).
Best regards and wishing you all a good week ahead.
-RAD

veesix

Hi, I'm a recent 1990 V6 pickup owner and I really appreciate this thread. Bent my relay rod (center link) a couple weeks ago which caused it to rub against the oil pan and the frame a bit. I need to figure out if any of the other steering components need to be replaced as well. I'm a noob so the info you guys posted here has been very helpful. I'm looking at Moog products but I think I read/heard that Sankei are OEM parts? [Just looked back in the thread and saw the Raybestos suggestion.] I have a couple weeks off during the holidays so I'm gathering the necessary tools, parts, and knowledge before then. Thanks.

RSR

Moog typically equals cheap chinese parts these days, but outside chance you'll get a service grade 555 part...

OEM are Sankei/555 (one and the same) parts. I've found that the Raybestos professional line is typically OEM equivalent, from Sankei/555 professional line of parts... I've seen what look like both low and high end 555 parts across our two vehicles, but it is possible they're all the same?

You'll pay more for the 555 boxed parts as so few carry them, but less than OEM. With Raybestos pro, you have several vendors and can always return if not 555. For online ordering, Amazon is actually really competitive for car parts; it's just more difficult to find them than say Rock Auto. But price comparing on Amazon once you have part #s from Rock or elsewhere is pretty easy to do...

FWIW, I do like Deeza for tie rod ends.