I finally took off the valve cover on my 22R to pull out the PCV grommet (had hardened into a plastic-like substance) and figured that it would be a good time to adjust my valves. My question is, can they be adjusted cold? I really don't want to get it to operating temperature just to adjust half the valves, have it get cold, re-install the valve cover, get it back to operating temp, and then finish off the other valves. Also, I've never done it before so it'll take me even longer to do it if it has to be hot. I know that the ideal clearances are .08 intake and .12 exhaust, but I remember reading somewhere that if you adjust the valves to .07 intake and .11 exhaust, when the engine is at operating temp the clearences will be in spec. Is this true?

 

true 7-11 cold.

 

Yes, it's true. Then again, if you adjust them cold you may be just fine. You're talking in thousanths of an inch. Being off by a smidge isn't going to harm anything...it might just be a little noisier. So, you may have to do it again.

One thing you'll have to get used to working on your own vehicle is redoing things. But, once you've done a valve adjustment a couple of times you'll quickly the hang of it and you'll learn a lot. Everyone who's ever done it has had to repeat the process....myself included. Once they're done, though, they're done for a good while. It's very easy. You'll see.

 

Do it warm. First time I did it i tried it cold twice, and wasn't happy with the results.

ps. this is discussed weekly...do a search.

 

I did. Nothing really answered my questions

 

Another thing that you guys might be able to help me with is the fact that my engine ticks pretty loudly, which is why I want to do the valve adjustment. A lot of the noise is coming from the front of the engine, which made me think timing chain, but when I pulled off the valve cover, the guides APPEARED to be OK so I ruled that out. But what else could the ticking be? Please valves, please valves.....

 

heres a couple threads I found just from doing a quick search.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...t-22re-135198/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...estion-134014/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...t-cure-129323/

I know theres plenty more...I've posted the same advice in most of em...

You might as well try adjusting em. If the chain looks to be in good shape it probably is. Most of the chain failures on the 22re are from the guides breaking causing it to wear on other parts.

I had a similar issue that i thought was valves (tickingish noise) and it ended up being an exhaust leak. There was also a valve noise when I got it, but adjusting them quieted that down, and it pretty much is only there cold for the first few minutes.

Might as well adjust em though, its a pretty quick job. You should be able to do it in about an hour for your first try.

 

The general recommendation from Toyota is every 30k miles/36months on valve adjustment as part of a major tune up.

 

Thanks I think I'll try adjusting them tomorrow. The only thing is that those threads that you found were indeed informative, but they were about adjusting the valves hot, not cold. Thanks though!

 

yes they were about adjusting them hot vs. cold. that is the majority of your original question

 

Well I finally adjusted the valves (I think), but the wierd thing was that when I set the #1 piston at TDC, only the intake valve was loose. When I rotated the engine 1 more revolution to set it back at TDC per the chiltons manual, only the exhaust valve was loose. I couldn't figure it out so I just adjusted the first 4 valves anyway (only the ones that were loose) and then rotated the engine and did the other 4. One thing that I found out was that several of my exhaust valves were too tight and several of my intake valves were too loose. I'm pretty sure that I adjusted everything right, but not 100%. Do you guys think that I did anything wrong?

 

I only adjust them cold when I need to get them close so I can start the engine. IE, after removing the head. And even then I recheck them hot anyways. They're always pretty close.

Btw, if you adjust your valves .008/.010 they're a lot quieter...

 

Would that apply to someone with a stock cam and valve train? Or custom? I ask because I notice you have a custom head.

 

we all have custom heads, get it, custom heads. my joke for the day. my bad.

 

The Crane cam I have recommends .008/.010 and that's why I started running it and noticed how much quieter the valve train was. then I found this post from engnbldr on 4x4 Wire...

">>>*I have always felt that .008" and .012" was a shade on the loose side. These engines do run noisy, after all the design is mechanical.
By listening closely, one will realize the click sound is at 1/4 of engine rotation, a mechanic's stethescope has demonstrated to me that it is the exhaust side that we hear.

The stock cam profile will accept .008" and .010" and this can help to ease the sound. But if the adjuster screw ends are worn, moving them exposes a different area, and the noise may actually increase at a closer setting.
Plus if worn, it is very easy to get a false reading since the feeler will read the widest point rather than the closest.
Trying to use "drag" as a guideline is very hard to do, these engines only have 60# seat tension in the spring, so a snug drag may actually be zero lash unless one has very good hands.
If the camshaft profile is other than stock, the lash setting may well be different than factory settings due to the lobe shape.

We suggest .007" intake and .009" exhaust on all of our designs for quietest operation, and we have even set the stock cam at that reading with no harm.

But by all means, pull the adjuster screws and check the ends for wear. If it is present, you will never really get the settings accurate....*EB "

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...5&o=14&fpart=1

I'd follow that old bird anywhere.

 

Thanks, ovrrdrive. I'm going to tinker with those settings once I get my motor back together.

 

I've found that adjusting them .002" tighter when cold gets them just about right on when hot. You can use this as a rule of thumb on most engines. It comes in handy when you are assembling an engine so that you can get them at least real close for when you first start it up. of course it is best then to check them hot.

There should be no reason to have to assemble the valve cover and warm it back up half way through the adjustment, unless you are really slow about getting them adjusted.

I can check the clearances on my truck in les than ten minutes. It don't cool off that fast.

 

I was really slow (took about an hour) since I had never done it before. It didn't make a difference in the noise from my engine though, so I'm starting to lean towards the timing chain/tensioner as being the culprit thats causing the noise