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Cold Air/Supra AFM Mount (dial-up beware)

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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 09:04 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by BigBluePile
Next time I'll cut the wires at different lengths so not to have one giant LUMP of splices.
yeah, in aviation school they teach us never to splice at the same spot. with the increased resistance of the connector, you could actually melt the insulation with the combined heat of all the splices. who knew
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 01:45 PM
  #22  
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Ian - looks great! I'd look into the battery swap if you're up for it - lots of cooler air

I came across this 1983 Supra AFM this weekend at a boneyard:


Are these plug n play with our 22REs? Are there any smog implications, since you're fooling the engine into pumping in more fuel (right??)?

I read somewhere that the 82 AFM was the one to get....
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 03:00 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Philbert
Ian - looks great! I'd look into the battery swap if you're up for it - lots of cooler air

I came across this 1983 Supra AFM this weekend at a boneyard:


Are these plug n play with our 22REs? Are there any smog implications, since you're fooling the engine into pumping in more fuel (right??)?

I read somewhere that the 82 AFM was the one to get....
That AFM has the wrong part number on it, the part number your looking for is
22250-43110, the part number on the one in the picture is 22250-43150, i don`t think it will work.
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 03:17 PM
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I have read that it will work but you have to put the circuit board from your stock one into the new on, I saw it done somewhere, didnt look to hard to do. I have seen a few of the 83 ones but no 82s yet. did they only come in the supras??
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 03:26 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by c0ugar69
I have read that it will work but you have to put the circuit board from your stock one into the new on, I saw it done somewhere, didnt look to hard to do. I have seen a few of the 83 ones but no 82s yet. did they only come in the supras??
It would just be a lot easier to get the AFM that has the right part number so its plug and play and install it, it would just make it easier. You can swap the boards, there is a thread on it some were here.
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 04:47 PM
  #26  
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I've had my battery and airbox swapped for a few years. Used all stock parts except battery cable extensions. Stock airbox, and just cut the stock accordion hose.
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 08:23 PM
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what about a battery holder? stock parts there, as well?

i will be doing the swap, just not anytime too soon
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 05:46 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by BigBluePile
You cant make a flex hose to go over?
sorry to bring this thread back up, but it came across my mind to take a picture of my dilemma. the a/c hoses stick up way too high for a flex hose to go over them

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ianrab/5011741888/
just throwing that out there. if anyone has suggestions or ideas...
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 06:44 AM
  #29  
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I think your AC hoses stick up a lot more than most...
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 06:50 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by A.Wilson013


Here is a picture of my Supra AFM.
/isjealousofblackmintbody
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 07:38 AM
  #31  
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do any of you guys know if this is applicable to the 3.o?
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 01:48 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by irab88
what about a battery holder? stock parts there, as well?

i will be doing the swap, just not anytime too soon
I just slightly modified the battery holder to better fit my DieHard Platinum. I drilled out the spot welds, knocked the L brackets off of it, re-welded it in the proper orientation. I welded a stud to the radiator core support, attached the battery hold with a nut there, slightly massaged the bend to better hold the battery, drilled a hole in the driver's side fenderwell for the J hook of the hold to secure through. I welded an extra plate on there for reinforcement so it doesn't tear the sheet metal out. Works great and is trouble free.

I can probably snap some pics this weekend if I remember. If I don't post back up on Saturday send me a PM to remind me and I'll snap some pics for ya.

Originally Posted by irab88
sorry to bring this thread back up, but it came across my mind to take a picture of my dilemma. the a/c hoses stick up way too high for a flex hose to go over them

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4111/5011741888_a22f46008a.jpg

just throwing that out there. if anyone has suggestions or ideas...
www.siliconeintakes.com should have all you need to make it work. Inexpensive but very high quality stuff. Been using them for years- their customer service is fantastic and I've always been more than satisfied with the products they send me. I'm sure you can figure something out for it!

Last edited by shaeff; Sep 21, 2010 at 01:52 PM.
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 02:49 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by irab88
sorry to bring this thread back up, but it came across my mind to take a picture of my dilemma. the a/c hoses stick up way too high for a flex hose to go over them



just throwing that out there. if anyone has suggestions or ideas...
I still don`t see a problem. The a/c hose is rubber, so you can pull it over slightly towards the radiator and put the elbow for the AFM over the top of the a/c hose and it should clear just fine. even if the a/c hose touches the elbow on the throttle body it will still be alright.
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 03:04 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by shaeff
www.siliconeintakes.com should have all you need to make it work. Inexpensive but very high quality stuff. Been using them for years- their customer service is fantastic and I've always been more than satisfied with the products they send me. I'm sure you can figure something out for it!
i like their stuff. i've been looking at their selection for a while now

Originally Posted by myyota
I still don`t see a problem. The a/c hose is rubber, so you can pull it over slightly towards the radiator and put the elbow for the AFM over the top of the a/c hose and it should clear just fine. even if the a/c hose touches the elbow on the throttle body it will still be alright.
the a/c hoses aren't as flexible as you might think. they connect to some pretty worn-out metal pipe, so i don't want to break them off. curse you california emissions! i'll look at it later, and take some pics tomorrow
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 03:40 PM
  #35  
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You would have to loosen the A/C hose and turn it down a bit, but you might loose some freon, might be able to do it without much loss. just loosen the big nut a little bit, just enough that you can twist the pipe, it has a o-ring in there so maybe it wont leak. then tun it down. thats how mine is.
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 08:30 PM
  #36  
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the thing about "just loosening" something on my truck is that it breaks off, 11 times out of 10. lug nut stud, skid plate bolt, sway arm linkage, and i'm pretty sure my exhaust will be the exact same. so "just loosening" will turn into "oh my ****ing deity, there's **** all over the place and now i need to retrofit my old-*** a/c system" really quickly. i'll look at it, but not a guarantee that it'll work, let alone it's possible. i do like that idea, though
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 08:49 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by 874runnersr5
/isjealousofblackmintbody
Thanks, I must admit I have oogled over your 4Runner a time or two in the past.
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 09:09 PM
  #38  
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awww, you guys have a 4Runner crush on each other!! LOL
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 09:29 PM
  #39  
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It's called "4play".....

Will we be invited to the wedding? Maybe that's movin' too fast.....
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Old Sep 22, 2010 | 03:41 PM
  #40  
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I have another idea for you to consider, maybe it will work. If you take the elbow shown in the picture and turn it so its pointing at the passenger fender, then get another elbow, either a 90 degree or 45 degree elbow, what ever one would work the best so the AFM and filter would point down towards the fender were the battery used to be.
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