jason191918

As I always say...I'm giving back to mother nature...one oil drop at a time.

mattiedale

Thanks runethechamp for the pictures I have been having the same issues with my 4runner. Only im my case I was the one who hooked up the vacuum lines wrong. I guess a picture is worth a thousand words!!!!

princeparks

I took out all my lines so the numbers dont help me, is there a way i can get better pictures, I have looked into many things and i am still not getting what i am looking for, i have the Haynes manual it dont help, i have looked at so many different diagrams and still not getting what i am looking for, could i get many different pictures to beable to fallow to get my lines correctly, i know i have some that are right but when i started up my truck there is a whisling nosie, not sure if its the power steering lines or not... help?

bugs1961

Here is the routing for an '89 3.0 and Fed emissions. I know your truck doesn't have the numbers on the vacuum hoses but I am referencing them as a way to identify each hose. You can number yours or just follow where they are going based on the numbers listed here. I attached a photo of my underhood sticker and of the VSV valves on the fender. The lower picture from princeparks' post is great to show vacuum lines #3 through #6 and the upper photo shows #1 (left, w/orange check valve) and #2 (right) on my truck. Vacuum hoses #1 and #2 are on the upper, black fitting that is screwed into the plenum and #3, #5, and #6 are attached to pipes under the plenum. Vacuum hose #4 attaches to the PAIR valve under the three pipes. My truck only uses two of the three fittings on the plenum, with the upper one blocked (as shown on the underhood sticker).

The VSV valves are:

rear (blue connector), : VSV for PAIR and has hose #1 attaching to the fender side of the VSV, and hose #4 attaching to the engine side of the VSV.

middle (brown connector): VSV for the FPU system and controls the fuel pressure regulator. Hose #2 attaches to the fender side and hose #5 attaches to the engine side. Hose #2 has a T fitting that has a hose going to the forward most VSV that controls the AC idle up.

middle (green connector): VSV for the EGR system and has hose #3 attaching to the fender side and hose #6 attaching to the engine side.

forward VSV (gray connector): This controls the idle up for the air conditioning and has a short vacuum hose that goes from the diaphragm to the fender side of the VSV, and a vacuum hose that goes from the engine side of the VSV to the T fitting in hose #2. There are two larger air hoses coming out of this VSV to provide extra air with the A/C on.

I hope this is a little clearer than mud. Good luck,
Bugs

saavetony

Thank you so much for the help.

Lacy Bobbitt Lujan

Since I've had this truck I rebuilt the engine replace the tranny cooling system fuel lines and most of the suspension. As long as I can remember that stupid code 71 has been on. EGR valve is working properly and I've replaced damn near every vacuum line and component related to the EGR. My check engine light is still on. I am thinking it is because I used an aftermarket EGR temp sensor. I do not want to bypass it with a resistor because I don't know if that is actually solving a problem. Can smell exhaust fumes and is sluggish while going up hills. Any recommendations?

scope103

Start by diagnosing the part you suspect: the temp sensor. http://web.archive.org/web/201003261...00egrgaste.pdf
That sensor could be good, but if the wire from the sensor back to the ECU is broken, that will cause a code 71. "Ohm" that out.

Here's the rest of the diagnostics: http://web.archive.org/web/201003261...77exhaustg.pdf

You could try pulling the EGR tube out of the plenum to see if it's blocked. On many trucks of our vintage, the plenum fills up with "gunk" (mostly from the PCV system), and if there is enough it can block he EGR tube. No flow, no temp rise, code 71.

Here's a picture of a "sparkly clean" EGR tube. (about 10,000 miles since cleaning) Imagine what a dirty one could look like.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Any EGR issue I have ever dealt with was a broken wire or a bad sensor if it is an electrical issue. Using the resistor is asking for problems in my opinion. Stay with the factory part, Bosch or any other aftermarket part tends to cause problems.

Other issues I find is dirty, clogged hoses, mis-routed hoses, or disconnected hoses. Even the Modulator ( Brown round valve if that is what it is called) can get clogged up. It is easily disassembled and cleaned. It has some small plastic connectors that connect to the hoses and they get clogged.

It takes me about 3 hours to clean the entire EGR system including the Plenum, replacing the sensors and cleaning the valve. At the bottom of Scopes picture, all of those ports get clogged up as well. What Scope is showing is minor carbon issues compared to what most trucks will look like. I see you cleaned or replaced several hoses but I feel you may have missed something as far as cleaning or replacing. This carbon makes a mess of things but a good cleaning will last a long time. I do not have to deal with emissions test, but I have never replaced a valve. I am sure I would pass a test with a clean an proper working valve.

Besides the aftermarket sensor which I suspect, the exhaust fumes has me suspecting something in that area. Your catalytic converter should take care of that issue. Most likely it is the original on most trucks that I see. It is expensive but go with the factory replacement. Aftermarket converters are not built that good.

Been a while since I have worked on a California truck, but most have a sensor in the EGR that all I have ever done is clean that sensor (have never had to replace that sensor) a O2 sensor in front and rear of the converter.