R4unnerMan

Has anyone finally come up with a solution to this problem?

bbrideau

Well im assuming its a 22re. Check the wire that plugs into it. Its a shielded wire much like a television cable wire. Any cracks in that it will throw the reading off. The sensor is located between the oil fikter and the oil pressure sensor/idiot light switch. I had my knock sensor actually break in half. Replacement is 350 bucks from napa. Not sure how much tye stealership charges. I got 2 from the wrecker thankfully.

R4unnerMan

I'm working on the 3vze had heads and block rebuilt, put it back together with old wire and KS not knowing about the dreaded code 52. took it all back apart bought new KS and wire from yota, put it all back together again and STILL a code 52. Im hopeing that buying a KS that was not oem is not the problem. I even tryed the relocation trick with the old wire and KS mounted to the manifold, still comes on after driving it awile. talked to a few people that say KS rarely go bad. I have way to much time/money into this rig to just give up or leave it jeryrigged

bbrideau

Its a one in like a thousand chances its the ks. Since your going to have everything apart you might as well trace that ks wire back to tge ecu n inspect it. Any damage will screw tge reading. Check for continuity from the plug to the ecu as well. Could be corrosion inside the wire too. Just cuz something appears yo be good doesnt mean it is. That wire is known for becoming brittle from the constant hot to cold of normal use of your engine. Good practice when everytime you have that manifold off to replace the pigtail. Its 20 bucks that can save u a headache later on. I have seen guys weld a nut to tge engine hook and put the ks there before too. You dont want it loose at all seeing as it determines a knock through vibrations

R4unnerMan

I dread having to take this thing apart again LOL! what a pita. yeah about the only thing i did not do is check the wire from KS to ecu with a meter. trying to find a 3vze ecu pinout diagram atm.

wheelin_toyota_guy

I have a buddy that works at a shop. They just put a new engine in a 94 4runner and could not adjust the timing right and were having problems getting it to drive or pull a hill over 45mph. So testing according to nodata(alldata) says the proper way to test a knock sensor on the 3.0l is to check resistance on the harness first. If that comes out ok, next step is to use a timing light with a tach at 2k and tap on exhaust manifold with a hammer lightly and check ohms and also check to see that it's retarding correctly, if not replace knock sensor with toyota one only... Hope this helps

R4unnerMan

Sweet ty I will have to try this out. I read another post where they said thier timing was the issue. and yet another where they said that aftermarket KS were kinda crapola.

wheelin_toyota_guy

Ya the aftermarket ones may serve the purpose but with something that is so picky, I would rather only do it once and forget about it... Hope you figure it out. I got pissed off at mine, just to many issues. I'm almost done building my 7mgte supra engine!! Can't wait to just get rid of the 3vze...

doublel

Quick update on my code 52. I chose to not tear down my 3.0 and change the knock sensor and pigtail as I mainly drive this offroad as a hunting vehicle. I have run RXP fuel additive in several tanks of gas over the past year. I have driven it around town the last few months during the off season and the code 52 has only come on a time or two. After the first tank or two with the RXP additive it became more intermittent and now after several tanks with the additive the check engine light hardly every comes on. I know it doesn't make sense when reading all the threads as to what the knock sensor does and why the code is set but thought I would update this thread with the info. And for what it is worth, I have no connection to RXP....I was told about it and decided it was worth a try in trying to make a 3.slow have a little more pep in her step.

wheelin_toyota_guy

Sounds like your knock sensor is fine. Just needs timing adjusted... When ping/knock is sensed, timing is retarded to save engine. Retard initial timing and run mid grade at minimum. Or just do a 7mgte swap as I decided to do. It's pretty simple.

scope103

Correct. Code 52 has nothing to do with whether your engine is knocking. It's telling you that the ECM can't tell whether it's knocking. So your timing or fuel grade or VAF or fuel additives may or may not reduce engine knocking, but they make no difference to a code 52.

So you've probably got an intermittent wiring problem somewhere, and we just hope it stays "not" broken. And if you think a fuel additive makes your truck run better, more power to you.

NKYJEEPSTER

I took my 95 in to the shop to have 52 fixed, not a good idea, burned a hole deep in my pocket. The work wasn't totally for nothing, after replacing the knock sensor, the pigtail, and the ecu, still get 52. BUT I now can drive the thing because its more intermittent now. I think I need to replace the wiring from the pigtail to the ecu, is there certain type of wire to use to just replace factory harness wire? Or can I run the coax cable from the pigtail to ecu or does it have to go from knock sensor itself to ecu? and does anyone have a good write up for the coax cable?

bbrideau

9 times out of 10 its the pigtail or the wire to ECU. Toyota ECU's are pretty rugged in the sense that unless they get wet or have an electrical surge they are not gonna go kaput on you. The knock sensor itself is also almost impossible to fail unless it is physically damaged.