Code 14 making me go bald
#1
Code 14 making me go bald
Three months or so ago the runner died out. Code 14. I exhausted ideas looking into it. Brought it to a shop. The car comes off the flat bed and starts right up. The shop keeps it for a while and one day it stops for them. They say there is no ground at the fuel injectors. Now I had ran a multi meter across the injectors plug and saw voltage there. Anyways, they replace the coil and igniter, still won't start. They replace the ECM and it fires right up. Ok, I do a lot of driving and for three months the thing works great. Last week I throw out my old ECM. Three days later driving down the HWY the car cuts out on me. (I should note that the first time it cut out it was during a hurricane, and this last time were high winds and rain). Every time 14 keeps coming up. Ok, so it sits for a day. I pull the ECM and left it inside for the wknd as I was away. Plug it in yesterday and the thing fires right up. I decide to go proactive.
While it's running as a test I pulled the engine grounds except for the cable that goes from the neg batt terminal to the engine block. All these grounds pulled an the thing is still running like a champ. I decided to grind down the connections to the body anyways and go with a nice coating of dielectric grease on it. We got a couple inches of snow last night, so I go out at six this morning and the thing won't start. I think great, i can replicate the issue.
I have spark, b/c it'll start to fire and then die. Obviously the cold start injector and I did check for spark. I tested the voltage across the ECM terminals E01/E02 and #10/#20. We look good here. I tested voltage at terminals E1 and IGT. Now obviously it says to do this while it's running. I tested with it cranking. I see voltage so this tells me that there is spark being sent. I put the multimeter in between terminals IGF and a ground and see voltage there as well. This tells me that I have a signal coming back into the ECM from the igniter. I actually see voltage to here with the key in the ON position. Not sure if this is correct. Reading through the FSM I don't see anything talking about testing the IGF circuit. I'm going on the assumption that this is ok since I see voltage.
Reading a couple other posts, I checked my O2 sensor wiring and all is good here along with the 15AMP fuse. I'm running out of ideas here.
What else should I be checking...or what did I miss?
Thanks.
While it's running as a test I pulled the engine grounds except for the cable that goes from the neg batt terminal to the engine block. All these grounds pulled an the thing is still running like a champ. I decided to grind down the connections to the body anyways and go with a nice coating of dielectric grease on it. We got a couple inches of snow last night, so I go out at six this morning and the thing won't start. I think great, i can replicate the issue.
I have spark, b/c it'll start to fire and then die. Obviously the cold start injector and I did check for spark. I tested the voltage across the ECM terminals E01/E02 and #10/#20. We look good here. I tested voltage at terminals E1 and IGT. Now obviously it says to do this while it's running. I tested with it cranking. I see voltage so this tells me that there is spark being sent. I put the multimeter in between terminals IGF and a ground and see voltage there as well. This tells me that I have a signal coming back into the ECM from the igniter. I actually see voltage to here with the key in the ON position. Not sure if this is correct. Reading through the FSM I don't see anything talking about testing the IGF circuit. I'm going on the assumption that this is ok since I see voltage.
Reading a couple other posts, I checked my O2 sensor wiring and all is good here along with the 15AMP fuse. I'm running out of ideas here.
What else should I be checking...or what did I miss?
Thanks.
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Jnkml
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
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07-06-2015 01:20 PM