Aloha guys, I am doing a clutch job on my 1994 4Runner 4x4 22RE

I've got the tranny out and was at the last step before reassembly but ran into an issue pulling the rear main seal and the housing got damaged so I'm stuck searching for a replacement on island or waiting for one to ship. Basically it looks like the original RMS with 215,000 miles on it and it was so glued in that I damaged the housing/retainer trying to get it out.

The question I have though is actually about the oil pan. Mine has seen better days and I'm certain that it's leaking a little at least. From the position I'm in under the truck with the tranny out it looks like I could drain and drop it pretty easily. I want to clean it out, check out the lower end, maybe repaint the bottom and then reseal it and attach. Everything I've read has pointed to just using Permatex grey gasket maker to seal it and not using an aftermarket cork or some other material gasket. Is this right?

So basically is this the best time to pull the oil pan? I may have to replace it if it's rusting through or something, and is it best to just use the Permatex Grey gasket maker to seal it up when replacing? Also are there any walkthroughs or anything I should know about when I get it going?

Mahalo!

Max

 

I guess I should also ask how to inspect the lower end for anything that might need replacing while I'm down there! Thank you!

 

To get the oil pan dropped far enough to come out you will have to remove the front differential.

​​​​​I sealed mine up with permatex and I've had no leaks in the 6 or 8 years since.

 

No cork! Ultra Black or Grey works great IF everything is clean, clean, clean... no oil... brake cleaner works good.
let the oil drain overnight so it has stopped dripping then clean around the inside of the block, with brake cleaner to keep oil from running down on your CLEAN and DRY mating surfaces.

 

Well made some progress today, cleaned the tranny end out super dirty from fried clutch dust. It had been slipping for quite a while and the hydraulic line to the slave cylinder had rusted out causing it to really slip.

So the tranny end is all clean and new throw out bearing installed. Also cleaned the block end of the clutch dust and installed the new pilot bearing. I did my belts while I was working on the truck today, gotta say it felt like nothing after pulling the tranny and clutch.

You guys were spot on though, there is no way to get that oil pan out with the front diff in, even with the whole tranny out. Except maybe If I can pull the metal tube that drops into the pan. Gonna get a closer look tomorrow as it was well past dark when I called it quits. Probably will be pulling the front diff though. Is there a walkthrough on here for that?

Just waiting on the new rear main seal housing. Should have the oil pan dropped and cleaned up and reinstalled tomorrow, then just a couple little things while I wait on the new part

 

Since the trans is out, what about undoing one or both engine mounts and lifting the engine up a few inches by the hooks instead of pulling the front diff? I dont have a 4x4 so I'm not sure if it would work but maybe someone has done it before

 

that's actually a great idea!

 

I read about doing it that way last night too! I’ll take a look. I just couldn’t find out where or how many mounts there are.

I was hoping that just unbolting the three mounts on the front diff would let it rotate out of the way. I literally only need an inch or two with the tranny out and the tranny support brackets out too.

 

I dont think the diff will move much with the CV axles still attached, I tried that once and didn't get far. I'd just unbolt and remove the diff completely and save the hassle of reaching for the oil pan bolts.

I believe there are only the two motor mounts both driver and passenger sides of block

 

Well good news, got the oil pan out by dropping the front diff mounts and just loosening the front. More on that later.

bad news it’s pretty rusty, so scrubbing it clean treating rust then prime and paint.

other not so good news. I think I found the timing chain guide from the original. It’s in pieces in oil pan I’m about 90% sure the one in the motor is still there but now have to pull valve cover and double check. Yay i wanted to adjust valves anyway hahaha.

I’ll add pics as i go

 

Found the old timing chain guide!

Maybe the original? Were they brown plastic, I saw 22R printed on it.

 

Well good news again today! Pulled the valve cover and the timing chain guide is fully intact and looks in great condition. Plastic yes, but still looks fresh and happy as does the chain. I adjusted the valves to spec and put it all back together.

The oil pan got it's top coat and clear coat and will be curing till tomorrow when I do the install.

I'm debating whether to bolt the front diff back into it's mounts after watching this video. Guy found a pretty simple way to get the oil pan, better than anything I've seen yet!

 

Well good news again today! Pulled the valve cover and the timing chain guide is fully intact and looks in great condition. Plastic yes, but still looks fresh and happy as does the chain. I adjusted the valves to spec and put it all back together.

The oil pan got it's top coat and clear coat and will be curing till tomorrow when I do the install.

I'm debating whether to bolt the front diff back into it's mounts after watching this video. Guy found a pretty simple way to get the oil pan, better than anything I've seen yet!

 

Be sure to let your FIPG cure for about 15 minutes before you install... then just snug it up with your fingers enough to compress the FIPG a tiny bit...
let it set up for another hour or so before torque. Then let it cure over night before starting.
good luck.
It was helpful to drop the stabilizer bar also just 4 more easy to get to bolts.
And another person to help guide the pan into position was very helpful!!!
Just start the 2 nuts on the studs first, then start all the pan bolts before tightening anything... work from the middle of the pan out crisscrossing from side to side as you tighten..

 

If I'm using Permatex is the method the same? I have Ultra Grey or Ultra Black available. I thought I read somewhere that you have about 5 minutes to get it up there? Also do you just put the stuff on the oil pan side or is it a good idea to put it on both surfaces and then stick it together?

Thanks so much for the tips. I'm definitely hoping to have an extra hand when doing this. Unfortunately I won't be able to start the motor because the trans is out (doing clutch job at the same time) so I'll have to pray and wait till that's all reinstalled to know if it leaks. If it does I'll have to drop everything again!

 

That was the Haynes manual actually, they say apply to both the pan and engine block and the bolt holes. And also say that you have five minutes to install.

 

I used blue RTV and applied it to the pan. It worked fine. It took about the whole tube. Make sure the surface on the block is wiped clean with a solvent such as Brakleen. Give it ample time to dry, like hours or overnight before running it.

 

I think FSM says 9 ft lb torque for the oil pan bolts is that correct?

and 18 for the drain plug?

 

i would never actually worry about torquing a bolt to 9ft/pounds unless my life depended on it.
9ft/lbs is basically just one-hand tight. Just don't overdo it.
18 on the drain plug sounds high. Just snug it down with the appropriate crush washer. You will be fine.

 

Good advice! One of the oil pan bolts was on it's way out and unfortunately sheared off when snugging up. I feel like it will be ok and won't leak with all the sealant on there. If it was a gasket style then I'd definitely want to get the bolt out and put a freshy in.

Also broke my torque wrench so I'm kind two steps forward one step back, thankfully I can get a brand new one for free because it's a duralast from autozone. Really gonna need it for installing the new clutch.

Just in case anyone needs to drop the oil pan with the tranny out if you follow the method in the video you can keep your diff bolted to the cv axles and it will slide right in and out and you still have a fair bit of room to work. I just put a clean rag on top of the diff and kept from scratching up the pan. Pre loaded the holes in the block and block surface and then did the pan and other than that one bolt everything went smoothly.