I'm on a daytrip and something strange is happening, in 4th and 5th at 3000rpm and higher the engine suddenly revs high without producing any power. is this a symptom of a clutch slip-there is no jerking, car still moves forward but I have to stay below 3000rpm or else it sounds like I am revving it in neutral. thanks so much for any thoughts

 

Strange symptoms indeed...

Does it smell like burnt clutch at all?

It won't slip in the other gears when you go past 3,000 RPM?

 

thanks for the reply elvota, I have some more information about this issue, it seems to happen after things heat up (after I have been driving on the highway for a bit), the symptom is that in 4th or 5th after 3000 the rpm needle shoots up with no additional power as if we were in neutral...
after I got off the highway the same thing would happen in the additional gears after 3000 in 3rd as well. there is no smell, and on the return trip everything seemed to be fine.
This is the 3rd time this has happened, I am wondering what the symptoms of a 'clutch clip' would be.
I have no problem shifting into gear, but I am wondering if this could be a worn pressure plate or master/slave cylinder issues. When I bought the 4runner, the original owner told me 'I may need a clutch soon', but I never had any problems. the runner has almost 250K on the OEM clutch! which is like a miracle. I am kind of hoping that this is a clutch issue rather than any cylinder issue.

IF this is a clutch issue, I am definitely going with a marlincrawler clutch. I am wondering out loud if I need a new pressureplate and master/slave cylinder too. I wish I could call them- they will be closed until tuesday! thanks for any help from 2nd gen clutch masters re: diagnosis and/or marlincrawler part decision (heavy duty/regular/ceramic?)have no idea. I have ceramic headers which I love so maybe ceramic clutch is good, but someone once said they didn't like the way ceramic clutches 'felt' so I need to do a lot of reading and listening to advice.

 

Wow, I think it might be time for a clutch job. 250k out of the stocker is quite impressive!

I will second the marlin clutch. I would get their regular v6 clutch w/ 1200ft-lbs of clamping force. Its all OEM but the springs have been tweaked/changed to give more clamping force. I love mine and if I stay with the 3.0 I will defantly go with one again.

 

thanks Jay! yes I agree with the 1200lb marlin clutch, the 1600lb pressure plate would be overkill for me, and 1200 is still 300lb more than OEM! So that's the first thing in my shopping cart.

next is the HD pressure plate bolt kit for $9, cheap and 25% stronger than the OEM bolts. sounds like a good option.

as far as the marlin'd resurfaced flywheel it looks like I would have less downtime if I got that at the same time as the clutch, plus it looks like they are specially surfaced to get the best from these clutches...they cost 99 which might be kind of expensive if my current flywheel is fine. but after almost 250K it may be trashed I simply do not know

I am wondering whether it is a good idea to replace the master and slave cylinders at the same time if getting this job done, seems like marlin sells them all. is there any point to replacing them as far as performance goes? he is charging 59 for master and 29 for slave. his prices seem pretty reasonable so far

 

For info... it just cost me $39 to get a flywheel resurfaced. Probably not the cheapest price, but if you take $39 from the $99, it's basically a new flywheel for $60 more.

There is no real advantage to replacing those parts now. Well, I guess you will have the slave off when you drop the tranny.

Depends on your budget and what total piece of mind is worth. I'd probably go all the way just to know everything is in tip top shape, especially if I wasn't the original owner.

 

IT might be a good time to change out the master and slave, seeing as they have so many miles it just makes sence to change them for peice of mind.

I didn't bother going with the marlin flywheel, the local machine shop did mine in an hour for 50 bucks so it worked out for the best. Gave us time to have a lunch break Plus I didnt have to pay anymore taxes over the border.

I guess its up to you if you want to take the chance and wait to see how your orignal flywheel is doing shape wise. I would think it would be okay seeing how good the truck has been driven ( how long the clutch lasted).

 

Does anyone happen to know any marlincrawler coupon codes? there's a place to enter them on his site, do we have one for yotatech or is there one floating around the web? it looks like my shopping cart is going to be $375 total for a complete clutch rebuild including new flywheel, master and slave cylinders and heavy duty bolt kit, not too shabby but would be even sweeter if I could snag a coupon code I love those things

 

Sorry, I have no coupons for you. But I wanted to ask, you are running the marlin shifter bushing and socket right?

 

yep! I am definitely running the shifter bushing and socket kit...it made a huge difference! very happy with them.

 

Good man!

 

I asked this in another thread but no answer...Does the marlin crawler clutch kit come with everything i will need to replace my stock one? things such as throwout bearing, alignment tool....etc?

 

All kits feature new parts.
Each Kit Includes:

Heavy Duty OEM Pressure Plate
Heavy Duty OEM Clutch Disk
Release Bearing
Pilot Bearing
Alignment Tool

 

Kind of a newb question but whats the alternate name for a throwout bearing? I think its release bearing but I'm not sure.

 

Pretty sure throwout = release bearing. Im not sure if anyone else had a problem with theirs, but the bearing I got from marlin likes to squeal on me. I usually have to take off the boot on the release fork and shoot some lithium grease into it to keep it quiet.

 

well thats my issue right now, the throwout bearing is starting to squeal unbarably...I figured since i had to replace the throwout bearing better go ahead and replace the clutch while i'm in there. The stock clutch has got 160k miles on it.

 

Bahhhh... save yourself some time.

 

haha...well its affecting the driving too...especially cold. Starting out...it shakes taking off, when the clutch is pressd the squeal is loud, but it the clutch is open then it isnt so bad.

 

yeah it's a good idea to do everything while you are in there. as for the other question, yes throwout bearing does = release bearing.

 

i would at least inspect the rear main seal while you're down there. My cousin put a new clutch in and a week later had to tear it apart again to replace the rear main.