Is there an easy way to swap out the Clutch Slave Cylinder? I know it’s just unbolt two bolts, and the hardline is what gets me. I already changed the master cylinder, and gears still seam a little stiff getting into gear. The next thing I will be replacing the bushing in the shifter area, I’ve heard they explode after some time. Also i've notice alot of slop in the clutch pedal it's self like the hole that uses the pin to connect the pedal to the master clutch cylinder is bigger than the pin itself.

 

The only way I know of is an easy way..On my truck anyways it's just like you said, two bolts plus the nut on the line. You just undo the line, the two bolts, and then the reverse to get the new one in, then bleed the system to make sure you've got no air or anything. I don't remember the line being anything complicated, you've just got to get an open-ended wrench on there.

 

i have a mighty vac, it's so awesome. just hook it up and keep 'sucking' until you see new fluid.

 

Not sure because I don't know what the thing's called, but I think I'm borrowing probably the same thing. I had my clutch line freeze in -9 weather the other day, so we figured moisture in the line so time for a flush, so I borrowed a friends "pump". It's great, I agree. You just hook the tube to the bleeder valve, pump for a bit, make sure you keep some fluid in the reservoir so you don't suck air in, and pump until it's clean, just like you said. I think I'll find the time to get around to doing the brakes this weekend too, if I can heat the garage up enough to make it tolerable. -6 is the forcasted high for tomorrow!

 

damn cold.... burrrr

 

my 89 has 240k the pedal has been used alot, pull the entire pedal bracket assembly also the brake pedal will come out as well its easyer to remove all of it than try and do the wk under dash (just ask my back) the hole the pin is in that on the pedal gets reemed mark the center of the oem hole weld it shut and re-drill also replace the pin and bushing or the weld alone will last onlyabout year