clutch release cylinder
10-22-2010, 05:31 PM
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clutch release cylinder
I need help removing the clutch release cylinder. I am doing my clutch and rear main seal. I've got the two bolts off of the clutch release cylinder, but how do I disconnect it from the tranny?
10-22-2010, 06:57 PM
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Im not sure if it's the fork, but the clutch release cylinder is also attached to the tranny by something(???) encased by a rubber boot. I looked at the FSM and it doesn't show what I'm describing. I pulled the rubber boot to have a look inside and the cable seems to be attached to it. I hope I didn't lose you guys.
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10-23-2010, 02:21 AM
#12
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It has been a while, but I'm thinking 3 bolts/fasteners need to be removed to get the slave off. When it's loose it will drop away easily. You don't need to fight it. I said 3 here when taking it back off was fresh in my mind.
Nothing connects the slave's push rod to the clutch fork.
Nothing connects the slave's push rod to the clutch fork.
10-23-2010, 07:43 AM
#13
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It has been a while, but I'm thinking 3 bolts/fasteners need to be removed to get the slave off. When it's loose it will drop away easily. You don't need to fight it. I said 3 here when taking it back off was fresh in my mind.
Nothing connects the slave's push rod to the clutch fork.
Nothing connects the slave's push rod to the clutch fork.
10-23-2010, 07:55 AM
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I just replaced mine last weekend. It helped to remove the wire from the fork first. Then remove the bolts. Also remember to fill the slave cylinder with oil and get the air out before installing.
10-23-2010, 05:37 PM
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As previously stated by citrus, they were stuck together. Had to wiggle it around a bit for it come loose. Everything is almost done, except, no shops were open so I couldn't get my flywheel resurfaced. I now have to wait 2-3 more days before I finish the job. Other than that everything went smoothly, that was until I approached the pilot bearing. That POS, is giving me a really hard time. I've tried the wet paper method with no luck. I am going to go to Autozone tomorrow morning to rent the puller. I should've done that in the first place. Other than that, it's a good learning experience as this is my first clutch job. Thanks for the help guys!
10-24-2010, 10:13 PM
#16
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I had a hard time with my pilot bearing too using the wet paper method, but it eventually worked. I think I did 2 things poorly:
1) Didn't soak the paper long enough. I only gave it a few minutes. Next time I'd give it longer and use hot water. If you think about it, you're only using the paper to put the water in place, so the more saturated the better.
2) I didn't hit hard enough. You're smacking the crank against the rear thrust washers. How hard is too hard? I don't know, but I was leery. It required more than tapping. I whacked it fairly hard. Maybe my paper not being soggy enough contributed?
I had read of several failures using rented pullers from parts stores (one guy even resorted to borrowing a good one from a mechanic), so the wet paper method made the most sense to me to get this thing out. Watch Iamsuperbleeder's video if you haven't already. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xuR7T8G1Ys
1) Didn't soak the paper long enough. I only gave it a few minutes. Next time I'd give it longer and use hot water. If you think about it, you're only using the paper to put the water in place, so the more saturated the better.
2) I didn't hit hard enough. You're smacking the crank against the rear thrust washers. How hard is too hard? I don't know, but I was leery. It required more than tapping. I whacked it fairly hard. Maybe my paper not being soggy enough contributed?
I had read of several failures using rented pullers from parts stores (one guy even resorted to borrowing a good one from a mechanic), so the wet paper method made the most sense to me to get this thing out. Watch Iamsuperbleeder's video if you haven't already. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xuR7T8G1Ys
Last edited by flyingbrass; 10-24-2010 at 10:31 PM. Reason: added video
10-24-2010, 11:41 PM
#17
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the wet paper trick is amazing 
make sure that you've stuffed enough wet paper in to fill the void behind the bearing first, otherwise you'll be there forever and the bearing will never budge...
and the tools don't necessarily need to be as specific as what was used in the video... anything that just fits inside the bearing will suffice
make sure that you've stuffed enough wet paper in to fill the void behind the bearing first, otherwise you'll be there forever and the bearing will never budge...and the tools don't necessarily need to be as specific as what was used in the video... anything that just fits inside the bearing will suffice
Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; 10-24-2010 at 11:42 PM.
10-25-2010, 12:48 AM
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yes that video was the actual video i went by. i didn't use the tools in the video, but i used one of the bolts from the tranny. i had my brother hold the bolt in place while i was stuffing wet paper and hitting it in with a hammer. we had no luck so this morning i went to autozone, rented their puller, and got it out in less than 10 minutes. that was a relief, but then again, nothing is to good to be true. we spent almost 4 hours trying to line up/bolt up the tranny to the motor. the closest we got was getting the input shaft into the pressure plate, but we had a hard time trying to align the grooves. it got dark so we called it a night, we'll start back up tommorow morning. hopefully, with all of us (4 guys), freshened up, hopefully we can get that sucker in. I was telling my brothers I don't know how some of you guys do it by yourselves or with just another hand, but we are having a hell of a time trying to get that damn thing in.
10-25-2010, 02:45 AM
#19
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I'm glad you got 'r done.
I thought about using an old head bolt. IIRC, it was a little too big. You need something that fits very closely that won't get jammed. A smooth socket like bleeder shows is probably best. I had to wrangle mine out a few times. If it had been a threaded bolt, that might not have worked so well.
I can't offer much on the aligning part. I did it the other way around: engine to tranny already in place, and that was a royal pain. If you used an alignment tool to center the clutch disk under the pressure plate, it's just a matter of getting things lined up and stabbing the shaft in. Easier said than done sometimes. You'll get it.
I thought about using an old head bolt. IIRC, it was a little too big. You need something that fits very closely that won't get jammed. A smooth socket like bleeder shows is probably best. I had to wrangle mine out a few times. If it had been a threaded bolt, that might not have worked so well.
I can't offer much on the aligning part. I did it the other way around: engine to tranny already in place, and that was a royal pain. If you used an alignment tool to center the clutch disk under the pressure plate, it's just a matter of getting things lined up and stabbing the shaft in. Easier said than done sometimes. You'll get it.
Last edited by flyingbrass; 10-25-2010 at 02:46 AM.
