shadowcat

Ok, the vehicle. 1990 Toyota 4Runner 5spd 4wd. The symptoms, I don't even know where to start anymore. Originaly It was getting harder and harder to shift into gear. It would grind and when you push on it, it was almost like the clutch wasn't fully getting pressed down. The truck has 280000km on it so we decided it was time to change the clutch anyways. We changed the clutch, put a new release bearing in the old one was shot. The new bearing looked diferent from the old one but the height was the same. We also instaled a new Master and slave on it and bleed the hydaulic system. It goes into get when the motor is off and you can start it with the pedal depressed but the trans feels like the pedal is not all the way depresed and the truck slowly moves forward like I'm slipping the clutch. I can drive it around the block via clutchles shifting. But it won't go into gear. We played with the adjustment on the Master to pedal conection and there is nothing. We reinstaled the old master and it didn't help. I don't know what else to do. we spend 4 housr trying to figure it out today. Any insight would be wonderfull.

Lunnzz

Maybe that new bearing might have looked like it would work but it could be causing your problem not sure never had any problems with clutches..

Radyota

Did you clean and lube the sleeve that the release bearing slides on? Check all of the bellhousing bolts to make sure the engine and transmission are tight together and aligned properly. Did you replace the pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft? It's often overlooked, but very important as it will cause the symptoms you describe. Also, did you use the proper clutch alignment tool on the clutch disk when torquing down the pressure plate? A bent clutch disk could also cause slight drag when the clutch is released, and grinding going into gear.

gonzo

I had the same problem a couple of years ago. Had the tranny out 5 times. got it done to 35 mins. from start to finish. lol.
Anyways. I bought the clutch kit at VIP auto parts. I returned it and tried again , same problem. So the 4th time I returned it for a refund. Went to Napa and got the kit there and had np at all. worked great. So if you got it at a discount auto parts I would say return it and go to Napa or the likes .
Good luck.
Gonzo

Tacrunner

If you had the flywheel resurfaced it had to be done right. Toyota flywheels have to have a .020 step. If it wasnt done, or done correctly you will have problems. A good clutch kit is always a good idea. Make sure you get a good name like Dakin or Center Force, you get what you pay for.

^VooDoo^

Heres another, Ive had to replace mine 4 times and made a mod to fix and re-inforce it.

Look at the peddle bracket Way up in the top left section where the bolts go through the firewall to the master cylender.
Look for cracks, The smallest crack makes a big difference.
This problem happens because Toy made crappy brackets assuming all people are short, Im 6'2" and I push the peddle a little diagnaly and this bends the bracket and cracks the weakspots they put into the metal for forming perposes.

I first tried to re-inforece it to the door wall to stop the lateral movement then welded, Then new and new again, After the last break I had to also redo the top mount to the upper firewall because it ripped out leaving a hole to where the wiper levers are.
Finely I had it welded, Made a plate to bolt to the backside and top of it and used re-inforcement washers to hold the other weakspots made in the bracket.

If you hear a kind of popping or creeking sound, Good chance thats it.
I wish I shot some pictures before I put it in but it was sometime before I found this site.

snap-on

i thought you had to reset the peddal hight and crap after you put one in. Though there was a procedure for it that centerforce virtually required you to do to make shure it worked right....

or is that just a centerforce thing??

TWolf

When i changed my clutch i did everything you had done and my tranny was still grinding. Talk to a tranny shop and see if someone can just take a look at it. My input bearing was gone and it squealed like a pig in heat. Also you may want to look at replacing the little plastic ball on the end of the shifter it could be worn out and it's not fully engaging
good luck

Blair

I'm going with VooDoo...check that bracket...they really are pretty weak. Mine cracked diagonally, giving the same symptoms. You can have it removed and welded, or pay the $250 for a new one. Funny thing is, they ALWAYS have one in stock, because the know how bad they are. Although, when I think of it, mine was replace at about 200,000 miles, shortly after the clutch was done. So it's probably just the extended service life of these vehicles, as in...they last so long, eventually some parts are going to need replacement.

Bobakazi

Sounds like the pedal bracket to me too. Especially since it is getting harder and harder to get into gear. You probably have a crack in the bracket that is growing. If that is the case, it will break soon. No more clutch control. You will have to contortion yourself to get a good look at it. BTW, it is a 3 dimensional bracket.

netgodsrdn2

Had the same problem when my bracket broke on my 94 extra cab. I pulled the seat out so I could stretch out a little, I think it made it a little less difficult to get under there and swap the bracket.

^VooDoo^

I will have to remember that remove the seat part, That would have helped alot
I still have one of the older brackets, I will try to reproduce one and take some pictures.
Just welding it wont help as the welds are weaker then the stamping, but it helps.
Make a bracket that goes from the cluch OD dissingage switch to one of the thredded holes on the doorjam, This stops the lateral movment, It helps make it last a little longer.

Radyota

I just figured he'd already looked at the bracket, since he'd replaced the master cylinder and adjusted the pedal. Yeah, remove the bracket and reinforce the heck out of that sucker! About the throw-out bearing, I got a NAPA one and it looked different from my old factory one, but all of the critical measurements that need to be right for it to work are correct. I hope the flywheel was machined right (too little step/flat = no clutch/slip. Too much step = won't release!). Hope you get it fixed!

shadowcat

Well After many hours of work I got it working by maxing out the adjustment only to notice that there was cracking in the pedal asembly. My Freind is a welder and he fixed it all up and it is working great now. Wo ho. thanks guys.

cootees

Excellent. My bracket broke on me a couple of weeks ago as well.

birfieldbuster

Yep, just happened to me last night.....
I am 6'4" and I definately push the pedal sidways. The funny thing is that it totally blew out last night when I was teaching one of my gal friends how to drive stick. The po po pulled us over when she came to a dead stop in an intersection becuase she couldn't get it into 2nd. :pat:

Rory

How would you properly resurface the flywheel to maintain this step?

WhlnRunner

You guys shouldnt weld it. There is a updated part available from Toyota to fix the problem. Just give them your VIN and they'll get you the part.

cootees

Welding seems to be quicker, cheaper and easier alternative to fix this. Good info knowing that toyota saw this problem and did something about it though. Do you happen to have the part number?

WhlnRunner

I'd have to check per your VIN for the updated bulletin.