Clutch nightmare
05-17-2017, 10:59 AM
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Clutch nightmare
Good day Toyota junkies
ive got a serious clutch issue that has had me off the road for over a month. Got a 1990 pick up ext. cab 4wd a few months back with a ton of miles on it and a soft clutch.
Was throwing gears a bit too quick and heard a pop and lost all clutch, had to drive her home in 3rd.
Thought it would be a usual clutch job so dropped the tranny and did full assembly replacement (Pilot, clutch and pressure plate,throw out) stuck it together and no shift
then replaced clutch pedal bracket ($270 in Hawaii from Toyota 😖
, clutch master and slave. But still I can't get into gear, clutch feels solid but shifter just won't move, makes a slight humming noise When engine is running and trying to go in gear. Cycles through all gears like a dream when engine is off. I even dropped the Trans again to check throw out clips and to see if the clutch fork was bent, it's all cherry!
A friend suggested transfer case issues and I was able to get it into all gears with transfer case in neutral and engine running, but still nothing with transfer case engaged
Feel like it's something stupid at this point but I'm totally lost. Any help would be appreciated!
ive got a serious clutch issue that has had me off the road for over a month. Got a 1990 pick up ext. cab 4wd a few months back with a ton of miles on it and a soft clutch.
Was throwing gears a bit too quick and heard a pop and lost all clutch, had to drive her home in 3rd.
Thought it would be a usual clutch job so dropped the tranny and did full assembly replacement (Pilot, clutch and pressure plate,throw out) stuck it together and no shift
then replaced clutch pedal bracket ($270 in Hawaii from Toyota 😖
, clutch master and slave. But still I can't get into gear, clutch feels solid but shifter just won't move, makes a slight humming noise When engine is running and trying to go in gear. Cycles through all gears like a dream when engine is off. I even dropped the Trans again to check throw out clips and to see if the clutch fork was bent, it's all cherry! A friend suggested transfer case issues and I was able to get it into all gears with transfer case in neutral and engine running, but still nothing with transfer case engaged
Feel like it's something stupid at this point but I'm totally lost. Any help would be appreciated!
05-17-2017, 12:05 PM
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With the truck off and parking brake engaged, have a friend press and release the clutch pedal while you climb underneath and see if the clutch fork is actually moving back and forth.
05-17-2017, 12:57 PM
#4
initially, it can be difficult to get any fluid to travel from the master to the slave because it first had to go upwards out of the master cylinder port, and then down to the slave. the line can be bled by slipping the clutch pedal: depress with your hand, and slide your hand off of the pedal, allowing the pedal to "snap" back up. do this repeatedly, and eventually the slave should begin functioning, at which time it can be bled normally to remove all air.
wally
05-17-2017, 01:16 PM
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i'd guess the same thing, ie, the slave has not been bled, or finished bleeding, to allow it to operate correctly.
initially, it can be difficult to get any fluid to travel from the master to the slave because it first had to go upwards out of the master cylinder port, and then down to the slave. the line can be bled by slipping the clutch pedal: depress with your hand, and slide your hand off of the pedal, allowing the pedal to "snap" back up. do this repeatedly, and eventually the slave should begin functioning, at which time it can be bled normally to remove all air.
wally
initially, it can be difficult to get any fluid to travel from the master to the slave because it first had to go upwards out of the master cylinder port, and then down to the slave. the line can be bled by slipping the clutch pedal: depress with your hand, and slide your hand off of the pedal, allowing the pedal to "snap" back up. do this repeatedly, and eventually the slave should begin functioning, at which time it can be bled normally to remove all air.
wally
i will try again with what you suggested
and I've been doing the cup and hose technique to make sure I'm not getting any air on the slave end
mahalo!
05-25-2017, 10:06 AM
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Bleeding the clutch is harder than bleeding brakes.
The problem is that when you depress the BRAKE pedal, the calipers squeeze a "solid steel rotor"
So the piston(s) bottom out against steel, and the pressure has to go somewhere. And so the pressure (vis a vis the fluid) goes out the bleeder screw.
This is not so for the clutch.
The slave cylinder is functionally the same as the brake caliper piston - the pressure of the CLUTCH pedal, pushes against the slave cylinder.
And the slave cylinder pushes against - not a solid steel rotor like in a brake pad but...
A throw out fork (which may be weak and bend)
A throw out bearing (which in theory has very little play in it)
The Clutch Cover Springs...
And there is the problem - you are pushing against, not solid steel - but a bed of springs!!!
So - the trick is to place something "solid" for the clutch slave cylinder to push against; so its pushing against something that is NOT MOVING AROUND.
A giant C clamp usually works.
It goes around the "fork" at the end of the plunger, and the end of the slave cyl
So when the pedal is down - its "stopped/blocked" by the c clamp (and not the clutch springs)
Then open the bleeder screw and let the air out. and close it quickly
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...oblems-297484/
The problem is that when you depress the BRAKE pedal, the calipers squeeze a "solid steel rotor"
So the piston(s) bottom out against steel, and the pressure has to go somewhere. And so the pressure (vis a vis the fluid) goes out the bleeder screw.
This is not so for the clutch.
The slave cylinder is functionally the same as the brake caliper piston - the pressure of the CLUTCH pedal, pushes against the slave cylinder.
And the slave cylinder pushes against - not a solid steel rotor like in a brake pad but...
A throw out fork (which may be weak and bend)
A throw out bearing (which in theory has very little play in it)
The Clutch Cover Springs...
And there is the problem - you are pushing against, not solid steel - but a bed of springs!!!
So - the trick is to place something "solid" for the clutch slave cylinder to push against; so its pushing against something that is NOT MOVING AROUND.
A giant C clamp usually works.
It goes around the "fork" at the end of the plunger, and the end of the slave cyl
So when the pedal is down - its "stopped/blocked" by the c clamp (and not the clutch springs)
Then open the bleeder screw and let the air out. and close it quickly
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...oblems-297484/
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05-29-2017, 07:42 AM
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Maybe off-topic, but pressure bleeding really is the way to go for both the clutch and brakes. It makes it a simple one man job, as long as you can get a good seal on the master cylinder you just pressure up the master using a pressure bleeder to 10-15psi, crack the nipple on the slave, let it flow until the air stops then close it up, done.
