Clunking noise over bumps - I can’t find what’s doing it!
#21
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Truck is back together and the clunk is gone. I believe the upper ball joint was the culprit. That was the only part I replaced that had obvious play.
Thanks for the help
Thanks for the help
#22
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Glad you got the clunk solved. I had a mysterious clunk as well that I couldn't find. Happened on the right hand side at slow speeds, when I went from forward to reverse, or vice versa, with the wheels somewhat turned (not full lock). I pried around on it with crowbars and 2x4's, shook the wheel, but couldn't figure it out.
Then last week I decided to tweak the camber on the passenger side. I put my breaker bar on the LCA bolts, expecting to have to pull my guts out to break them loose - they're supposed to be torqued to 145 ft-lbs. To my surprise, the rear one on the passenger side took very little effort; probably less than 50 ft-lbs. I made my adjustments, retorqued the bolts to the proper value, and the clunk is gone. My theory is that the LCA was shifting slightly due to the inadequate torque on the adjustment bolt.
Just another thing to check if you have a mysterious clunk.
Then last week I decided to tweak the camber on the passenger side. I put my breaker bar on the LCA bolts, expecting to have to pull my guts out to break them loose - they're supposed to be torqued to 145 ft-lbs. To my surprise, the rear one on the passenger side took very little effort; probably less than 50 ft-lbs. I made my adjustments, retorqued the bolts to the proper value, and the clunk is gone. My theory is that the LCA was shifting slightly due to the inadequate torque on the adjustment bolt.
Just another thing to check if you have a mysterious clunk.
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Pom85627 (10-22-2018)
#23
control arm broke or cracked
Thanks Dropzone, I have since cleaned this area with degreaser and it looks a lot better. The sway bar bushings are cracked but are very firm still, I get virtually no movement shaking back and forth when I grab a hold of it like I’m wringing Bart Simpson’s neck.
A frame issue would suck, hope it’s not an issue. I think it looks worse than it is.
Are you saying new new shocks based on how the shocks and bushings look or just because I’m in there and might as well do it? The shocks on both sides are firm as well.
I think what I’ll do is replace the cv axle and brass bushings and only replace the other stuff if the noise is still there. My luck it will be, but no sense in replacing a part that’s still functioning correctly.
I found the part number for the brass bushings 90381-30006, but anyone know of a cheaper source? I see they’re usually $30+ per bushing. Pretty expensive for a small piece of brass.
#24
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- Constant Velocity (CV) Joint Boot Kit - Front Left Inner
- PART # :CVB 6862103
- Constant Velocity (CV) Joint Boot Kit - Front Right Outer
- PART # :CVB 6862185
I replaced my CV boots, however, mine were only cracked but not breached. Since yours are breached, junk could have gotten in and begun to score the internal components and mixed in with the bearings. In your case I might then recommend a new CV axle. The cost isn't too much more than replacing the boots and the boot replacement is slightly cumbersome. But then again, OEM CV's will be pricey and I don't know if there is a good third party replacement for cheap.
Last edited by Just_ Rollin'; 04-25-2018 at 05:09 PM.
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