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Clunking noise over bumps - I can’t find what’s doing it!

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Old 04-23-2018, 03:50 AM
  #21  
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Truck is back together and the clunk is gone. I believe the upper ball joint was the culprit. That was the only part I replaced that had obvious play.

Thanks for the help
Old 04-23-2018, 12:56 PM
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RJR
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Glad you got the clunk solved. I had a mysterious clunk as well that I couldn't find. Happened on the right hand side at slow speeds, when I went from forward to reverse, or vice versa, with the wheels somewhat turned (not full lock). I pried around on it with crowbars and 2x4's, shook the wheel, but couldn't figure it out.
Then last week I decided to tweak the camber on the passenger side. I put my breaker bar on the LCA bolts, expecting to have to pull my guts out to break them loose - they're supposed to be torqued to 145 ft-lbs. To my surprise, the rear one on the passenger side took very little effort; probably less than 50 ft-lbs. I made my adjustments, retorqued the bolts to the proper value, and the clunk is gone. My theory is that the LCA was shifting slightly due to the inadequate torque on the adjustment bolt.

Just another thing to check if you have a mysterious clunk.
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Old 04-24-2018, 08:37 AM
  #23  
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control arm broke or cracked

Originally Posted by Davebarbier


Thanks Dropzone, I have since cleaned this area with degreaser and it looks a lot better. The sway bar bushings are cracked but are very firm still, I get virtually no movement shaking back and forth when I grab a hold of it like I’m wringing Bart Simpson’s neck.

A frame issue would suck, hope it’s not an issue. I think it looks worse than it is.

Are you saying new new shocks based on how the shocks and bushings look or just because I’m in there and might as well do it? The shocks on both sides are firm as well.

I think what I’ll do is replace the cv axle and brass bushings and only replace the other stuff if the noise is still there. My luck it will be, but no sense in replacing a part that’s still functioning correctly.

I found the part number for the brass bushings 90381-30006, but anyone know of a cheaper source? I see they’re usually $30+ per bushing. Pretty expensive for a small piece of brass.
i have a 95 tacoma reg cab and it was making a knocking sound when i would hit a big bump and it was a crack control arm were the rubber bushing goes - i welded a couple big steel washers and now its better the oem i had to do it on both sides
Old 04-25-2018, 05:08 PM
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Lisle 30800 CV Boot Clamp Pliers Lisle 30800 CV Boot Clamp Pliers
Moog ES3192 Tie Rod End Moog ES3192 Tie Rod End
2 of Moog ES2376 Tie Rod End 2 of Moog ES2376 Tie Rod End
If you decide to do the ball joints I DO NOT recommend MOOG for them, go with OEM Toyota. I almost always use OEM for everything but for the tie rods I don't think it matters, ball joints are a much different story. MOOG ball joints were puny compared to the OEM ones but OEM is twice as much.

I replaced my CV boots, however, mine were only cracked but not breached. Since yours are breached, junk could have gotten in and begun to score the internal components and mixed in with the bearings. In your case I might then recommend a new CV axle. The cost isn't too much more than replacing the boots and the boot replacement is slightly cumbersome. But then again, OEM CV's will be pricey and I don't know if there is a good third party replacement for cheap.

Last edited by Just_ Rollin'; 04-25-2018 at 05:09 PM.
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