Clunking noise over bumps - I can’t find what’s doing it!
#1
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Thread Starter
Clunking noise over bumps - I can’t find what’s doing it!
1994 4wd 22re Pickup
Hi all, I’m hearing a clunking noise from the front left of the truck when I go over bumps. Happens in my driveway when I drive over this rock and also on the highway at 65mph. I jacked the truck up and started shaking the wheel around and looking at bushings and everything seems fine. I do have a little play when I shake the wheel grabbing at 12&6 and also 3&9, but it’s very slight and the right wheel has the same minimal play and gives no clunking noise.
I removed the wheel and manual locking hub to check play at the cv axle and took a video. Is this normal lateral play? Also has in and out play which I’m not sure is normal. The boot has been torn for years and there’s grease flung everywhere. Could the axle be the culprit?
Hi all, I’m hearing a clunking noise from the front left of the truck when I go over bumps. Happens in my driveway when I drive over this rock and also on the highway at 65mph. I jacked the truck up and started shaking the wheel around and looking at bushings and everything seems fine. I do have a little play when I shake the wheel grabbing at 12&6 and also 3&9, but it’s very slight and the right wheel has the same minimal play and gives no clunking noise.
I removed the wheel and manual locking hub to check play at the cv axle and took a video. Is this normal lateral play? Also has in and out play which I’m not sure is normal. The boot has been torn for years and there’s grease flung everywhere. Could the axle be the culprit?
#2
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Thread Starter
So my plan is to replace the axle and brass bushings. I’m currently looking up the proper part numbers for this, but does anyone have the info handy? Do I need to replace any seals as well?
#3
i would take you truck down to the quarter car wash and degrease all that crap off so you can see what you are working with.
could be anything including your sway bar bushings but they are camouflaged by all that grease. new shocks should be added to your list. that torn CV boot should be fixed
also check all your mounts, with the amount of rust on there you could be looking at a frame issue
could be anything including your sway bar bushings but they are camouflaged by all that grease. new shocks should be added to your list. that torn CV boot should be fixed
also check all your mounts, with the amount of rust on there you could be looking at a frame issue
#4
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Thread Starter
i would take you truck down to the quarter car wash and degrease all that crap off so you can see what you are working with.
could be anything including your sway bar bushings but they are camouflaged by all that grease. new shocks should be added to your list. that torn CV boot should be fixed
also check all your mounts, with the amount of rust on there you could be looking at a frame issue
could be anything including your sway bar bushings but they are camouflaged by all that grease. new shocks should be added to your list. that torn CV boot should be fixed
also check all your mounts, with the amount of rust on there you could be looking at a frame issue
A frame issue would suck, hope it’s not an issue. I think it looks worse than it is.
Are you saying new new shocks based on how the shocks and bushings look or just because I’m in there and might as well do it? The shocks on both sides are firm as well.
I think what I’ll do is replace the cv axle and brass bushings and only replace the other stuff if the noise is still there. My luck it will be, but no sense in replacing a part that’s still functioning correctly.
I found the part number for the brass bushings 90381-30006, but anyone know of a cheaper source? I see they’re usually $30+ per bushing. Pretty expensive for a small piece of brass.
#5
Registered User
You shouldn't just replace the brass bushings out of hand. It's very unlikely that they are seriously worn unless they were run dry of all grease for a long, long time.
Measuring instruments like calipers and micrometers are your friend. Take the axles out and make some measurements.
Very likely that you'll find the bushings are still serviceable.
Measuring instruments like calipers and micrometers are your friend. Take the axles out and make some measurements.
Very likely that you'll find the bushings are still serviceable.
#6
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Thread Starter
You shouldn't just replace the brass bushings out of hand. It's very unlikely that they are seriously worn unless they were run dry of all grease for a long, long time.
Measuring instruments like calipers and micrometers are your friend. Take the axles out and make some measurements.
Very likely that you'll find the bushings are still serviceable.
Measuring instruments like calipers and micrometers are your friend. Take the axles out and make some measurements.
Very likely that you'll find the bushings are still serviceable.
#7
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Thread Starter
Another part finding question. I can’t seem to find a replacement for the spindle dust seal. I remember when I did my brakes a few years ago the dust seal was cracked and I needed the truck so I just assembled it. I want to fix it now. This is the seal I’m talking about. I’ve seen it called a dust seal or also an oil seal.
Any help would be appreciated.
Any help would be appreciated.
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#8
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Ahh, this is crazy. I haven’t had a chance to drive it since I dropped the truck after cleaning it, but I’m just now at the Advance Auto parking lot and the noise is gone. I went over a handful of big bumps on the way here and speed bumps in this parking lot and nothing! This is weird. I suppose removing the wheel and reinstalling it *could* have done something, like maybe the wheel wasn’t fully torqued and now it’s good? I’m still doing the axle, but this is really strange.
#10
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Thread Starter
Thanks Millball, I see prices from $14 up to $50 for that part, haha. Most of the eBay listings show it as a 93-98 T100 part, though. Could still be the same part. I’ll have to do some more searching, but thanks for getting me going what seems to be in the right direction.
#11
Registered User
Thanks Millball, I see prices from $14 up to $50 for that part, haha. Most of the eBay listings show it as a 93-98 T100 part, though. Could still be the same part. I’ll have to do some more searching, but thanks for getting me going what seems to be in the right direction.
#12
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Thread Starter
Called my local dealership, game him my vin, and he said the part number is 90313-93003. I found it on FJParts.com for $24 shipped instead of $65 from the dealer. I ordered it already because I want it soon, but does this part make sense to you all? Hope this FJParts website is reputable and the part comes quick.
#13
Registered User
Called my local dealership, game him my vin, and he said the part number is 90313-93003. I found it on FJParts.com for $24 shipped instead of $65 from the dealer. I ordered it already because I want it soon, but does this part make sense to you all? Hope this FJParts website is reputable and the part comes quick.
#14
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Thread Starter
No ABS, are you saying this part is for an ABS equipped pickup? I don’t know how the ABS system is applied, like where the ring gear and sensor is located, but if the inboard hub flange has the same OD then the seal will fit around it. I wouldn’t be able to know for sure though.
#15
Registered User
No ABS, are you saying this part is for an ABS equipped pickup? I don’t know how the ABS system is applied, like where the ring gear and sensor is located, but if the inboard hub flange has the same OD then the seal will fit around it. I wouldn’t be able to know for sure though.
I would expect that the dealer would supply the correct part based on your VIN number.
#16
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Thread Starter
No , I am not saying that this part is for ABS equipped trucks; I was just wondering whether your truck was ABS equipped, and if there might be a difference in this seal between the two trucks.
I would expect that the dealer would supply the correct part based on your VIN number.
I would expect that the dealer would supply the correct part based on your VIN number.
#17
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Thread Starter
i would take you truck down to the quarter car wash and degrease all that crap off so you can see what you are working with.
could be anything including your sway bar bushings but they are camouflaged by all that grease. new shocks should be added to your list. that torn CV boot should be fixed
also check all your mounts, with the amount of rust on there you could be looking at a frame issue
could be anything including your sway bar bushings but they are camouflaged by all that grease. new shocks should be added to your list. that torn CV boot should be fixed
also check all your mounts, with the amount of rust on there you could be looking at a frame issue
#18
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Thread Starter
Out with the truck now doing the CV axle replacement. I’m sure this is, but I want to double check. Is this play normal?
P.S. I LOVE how we can post videos on the internet with HD cameras of symptoms and have the world see and help diagnose. It’s truly amazing.
P.S. I LOVE how we can post videos on the internet with HD cameras of symptoms and have the world see and help diagnose. It’s truly amazing.
#19
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Thread Starter
RockAuto has it for like $20.
The dealer gave me the part number in the above post which is wrong for my truck. It has 8 mounting holes where I need 7.
#20
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Thread Starter
While I’m at it. NAPA sells a lower front ball joint for this truck which DOESN’T fit. I ordered a correct one from RockAuto again.
The stem doesn’t press all the way into the lower wishbone and the body doesn’t sit all the way into the knuckle. See pictures. These bolts are fully torqued.
NAPA part number is 104188.
The stem doesn’t press all the way into the lower wishbone and the body doesn’t sit all the way into the knuckle. See pictures. These bolts are fully torqued.
NAPA part number is 104188.