OK well I think I found my problem!

Opened up the EGR Temp sensor, EGR valve and found about 1-2mm thick of black CRUD!

Cleaned everything and reinstalled. It sure runs better now. We'll see if the code comes back... :/ I tested the EGR sensor and it was working (after I cleaned).

EGR Temp Sensor before:


After:


Connecting tube and EGR before:



Next up on the agenda:
1) Remove plenum, and clean!
-Are the gaskets just called "plenum gaskets"
-Are there any other gaskets I need to replace (besides the TB and IAC gasket)

2) Check valve clearances.
- PO put new head on 3500 miles ago, I doubt they readjusted valves

3) Set timing

4) Make new vacuum lines.
- Can anyone point me in the right direction on what size the small and plentiful ones are, and where the best place to buy them is?
- Can anyone post a few pictures of their 22re so I can make sure the lines are correct?

 

Oh, that might cause cylinder temps to go up a bit! Good find!

Plenum gaskets are upper intake manifold gaskets. FelPro at O'Reilly work just fine.

Take a small bit of the vac lines you wish to replace in with you to O'Reilly (or wherever) and have them match up. Be sure to get an approx total measurement of what you'll need. A little extra wouldn't hurt. I used a long piece of string last time I'd done this. I just don't remember how long it was.....

 

Oh, and read this......

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h61.pdf

 

Code 71 came back on today (2 days of driving, probably put 100 miles on truck).

After looking at the EGR components, I feel that the EGR valve is stuck either open or closed. I would assume its open since the amount of carbon buildup within the intake plenum is extremely high, but I wouldn't say it idles "rough" (not smooth though, either).

Tomorrow I'll be doing a systematic check of the EGR system, including the EGR valve, modulator and VSV. My main question is how/which vacuum line I should disconnect and stick to the top (?) of the EGR valve to verify the engine stumbles?

Today I removed the intake plenum and cleaned with solvent. The port which the EGR gasses route into the intake was nearly completely blocked with crud.

To confirm, when the RPM is higher, the suction from the intake opens the diaphram/valve of the EGR to let exhaust gas back in, correct?

Lastly, my local autoparts store only carries standard sized vacuum lines, will they work instead metric? :/

 

Checked EGR, and its functioning correctly. Now I'm thinking the modulator is hooked up wrong, or a vacuum line is misplaced because the engine runs a little "off"...

I've stared at the vacuum diagrams forever, but I think it would be better if I could see up close photos of someone else's 22re. I gotta go find a buddy with a truck

If anyone has some time to snap some up close photos (preferably the EGR, modulator and VSV) I would be SO stoked. Thanks

 

Here is a part number for appx 3' sections of OEM vacuum hose for about $2.50 per piece. I've ordered about 10 pieces and replaced all the vacuum hoses on my 3.0. They are exactly like the original except won't have the numbers on them. They do have a white square for you to write the numbers on as you replace them.

90999‑92003

The dealer or any of the mailorder dealers can get them for you in a few days. Good luck.

 

Cool thanks!

Ok well here's another update if anyone is interested besides myself:

I tested the TVV by seeing if there was a vacuum coming from the canister, and there was.

I then tested the load side of the EGR vac modulator by hooking port "R" directly to a vacuum line, and tested for a vacuum to the to pof the EGR, and it was present.

So it seems as if the EGR valve, EGR Modulator, VSV, TVV and EGR temp sensor are all working correctly. I reset the code and we'll see if it pops back up.

I almost feel that the EGR valve is still sticky and might be getting stuck once in a while...so I will probably try recleaning

 

Were interested, everything you post about your problem and what you have done to fix it helps out the next person that has a problem similar to yours and is trying to get it fixed. So keep posting on this and let us know your progress.

 

Yeah I have been searching the forum for the last week, with every term I could imagine to describe code 71 and an EGR system problem.

I am going to re-clean the EGR valve, and retest the temp sensor.

 

Good luck, man! I'm still following....

 

Is the R port of the EGR modulator on the passenger or drivers side?! My vacuum diagram shows its on the drivers side, but I've seen it opposite on others.

Are the P, R, E ports on the TB supposed to match up with the P, R of the vacuum modulator? They aren't, but the two ports that face forward on the modulator go directly to the TB.

The diagram, is it orientated correctly, like the R port should be on the right side of the engine, and should be going to the 2nd from the front port on the TB?

 

Wow!! I think I FINALLY figured out whats going on...

Using my vacuum gauge I found that on high RPM's, the vacuum going to the top of the EGR is good until my engine stumbles. A little hickup at the high rpm makes the vacuum gauge drop to 0.

Not sure what is causing this stumble. The head was just replaced 3500 miles ago. I'm assuming noone readjusted the valves. Could this cause a stumble at high idle?