my 87 4runner, 4cyl, 5sp just went from running good - to running like junk/check engine light on?

I first thought it had something to do with it being the first cold weather we've had (it started Monday morning).

Here's what its doing:

it started with the check engine light coming on then going back off as I was driving. if I accellerated fairly hard (not crazy hard), it would come on. it I let it fall back to idle it would go back out in most cases...

it would also stumble as I start to accell. then it would catch and jerk...like you were popping your foot on and off of the pedal?


now...it has gotten hard to start in the mornings... and the light stays on almost all the time. still runs crappy if you accell or put it under a load.

I looked for vacuum leaks or breaks but nothing.

I was thinking maybe O2 sensor or Mass air meter? but not sure how to test.

also, do these trucks have onboard diagn.?

 

Don't go crazy on it just yet. There could several reasons for those symptoms. Read this and pull the code.
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/index.html
Troubleshooting and testing..
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...sm/engine.html

Post back what the code is before you come to any conclusions.

 

Cool.

is E1 and TE1 the same sockets that you jump for setting timing?

the lid/cover to that little box is gone on mine...

the decal on the hood shows which two to jump for timing but doesn't indicate which numbers they are? just shows a small graphic.

 

Yep, those are the same terminals. Jump those and turn the key to ignition. The CEL will flash the code. Count the number of times it flashes. It could flash a one digit or a two digit code. Either type of code will tell you the issue/s. For example, if it flashes 11 times consecutively with no pause, it is a one digit code. But, if it flashes...say...2 times and then shortly after 1 times, it's two digit....=21. Once you have the codes, then follow the chart. Those are just guidelines, though. You may have to do some digging to find the actual problem as several components can cause the same one single problem. That's where the troublshooting guide comes in. Even still, those are just guidelines.

Post back.

 

o.k. cool.

it returned the following:

4 (IIII)
10 (IIIIIIIIII)
11 (IIIIIIIIIII)

in that order. I'm not sure how that works out on the chart?

any advice?

 

I'm guessing the "11" was because I used the clutch cancel switch?

 

4: WATER TEMPERATURE SENSOR SIGNAL
--OPEN OR SHORT IN WATER TEMP. SENSOR SIGNAL
--WATER TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT
--WATER TEMPERATURE SENSOR
--ECU


10: STARTER SIGNAL
--NO "STA" SIGNAL TO ECU UNTIL ENGINE SPEED EXCEEDS 800RPM
--IGNITION SWITCH/CIRCUIT
--ECU


11: SWITCH SIGNALS

IDL (tps) CONTACTS OFF, NEUTRAL START SWITCH OFF, A/C SWITCH "ON" SIGNAL TO ECU

WITH DIAGNOSTIC CHECK CONNECTOR SHORTED

--A/C SWITCH/CIRCUIT
--A/C AMPLIFIER
--TPS/CIRCUIT
--NEUTRAL START SWITCH/CIRCUIT
--ECU

 

that's what I got from the chart (from the link)...

Also forgot to mention, that the valves are rattling probably from the computer altering the timing?

any advice on how to check those things listed?

 

What do you mean you used the clutch cancel switch? Just by using that, it wouldn't throw a code.

Yah...the valves will rattle when you're motor is not firing well. Motor not happy....

Look on the first page of this forum under the sticky "Links to FSM's". Go to the 4x4wire link and click on the '93 FSM. That manual is close enough for your vehicle on those issues. You'll need to buy a digital multimeter to run those tests, but you can find them inexpensively at Harbor Freight, Lowe's, parts store, etc.

That's kind of weird, though, for those particular codes to just pop up all at once without any warning. You may not have any problems with the parts (but then, you might..), just wiring or ECM problems.....which you will have to run down with a meter. Get one and can go from there. I suppose first you ought to look over the wiring and ECM for corrosion or broken connections.

 

It's your ECT(Engine Coolant Temperature)sensor. Just replace it, it's a $5 part. It will make your engine do just like you say it is if it's going out(and yes, it will be flashing the check engine light at you as the sensor slowly dies).

Here's the 93 FSM if you need to find it.

Might wanna check your TPS after you fix the ECT sensor, because it wouldn't cause what's happening now. So leave it for later, kind of an involved process that one. You'll be assigned some homework before you get to the actual hands-on adjusting/maintenance of the TPS.

Merry Christmas!

 

I'm sure about the codes. checked them several times. I get 4 blinks, (4 second pause) 10 blinks, same pause, then 11 blinks....

let me know what else that could mean?


I have the FSM for my year and a digital mm. so let me know the specifics about what to check.

thanks.

 

I'll throw a new ECT on just for good measure too......

And let you know what it does.

 

yota4runna,

you're dead on... picked up another sensor and when I went to put it on, I noticed that the connection on the old one had slipped loose. I reconnected it and it runs great as it did originally!

thanks again.

 

At the risk of being a jerk....

Ten even blinks is a code 10....a single digit code. There is no two digit code ten. Not possible.

And Mudhippy....where in the hellza do you find a water temp sensor for $5? Is that OEM? I couldn't find an aftermarket for less than $15.....much less the dealer.


Glad you found your problem, Pig. That was a simple fix, no doubt.