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Changing an inner CV boot

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Old Oct 7, 2008 | 11:48 AM
  #21  
Matt16's Avatar
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Good luck.
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Old Oct 8, 2008 | 11:37 AM
  #22  
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From: Northern IL
Originally Posted by Matt16
That sounds like measuring wheel bearing pre-load. You're not altering the preload, so no need to do this.
Oh ok I was under the impression all of that has to come apart to change cv's and/or cv boots. That makes it easier if you don't have to.

Rob
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Old Oct 8, 2008 | 02:55 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by rdlsz24
Oh ok I was under the impression all of that has to come apart to change cv's and/or cv boots. That makes it easier if you don't have to.

Rob
Changing the boots isn't a very tough job.
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Old Oct 12, 2008 | 06:03 AM
  #24  
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From: The Gorge
I'm right in the middle of replacing the axle shafts. I was just going to do the boots, but the reman shafts are only $70 each, so I'm going to replace them because I don't know how long the boots were torn. I read most of the posts here regarding this procedure, I can add this:
        I'll add anything else I discover as I put everything back together in the next few days. I'm doing the brakes and hubs, installing new shocks.
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        Old Oct 16, 2008 | 03:39 PM
          #25  
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        From: way way nor cal
        Originally Posted by GorgeRunner
        I'm right in the middle of replacing the axle shafts. I was just going to do the boots, but the reman shafts are only $70 each, so I'm going to replace them because I don't know how long the boots were torn. I read most of the posts here regarding this procedure, I can add this:
              I'll add anything else I discover as I put everything back together in the next few days. I'm doing the brakes and hubs, installing new shocks.
              Hey, dont forget to take pictures!! My parts are on the way (Autozone reman CV's lifetime warranty for 69 bucks!) I am doing my whole IFS front end this weekend and it would be great to see how yours came out.
              thanks
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              Old Oct 17, 2008 | 08:56 AM
                #26  
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              Got the old axles out and the new ones in. By taking the four bolts off the lower ball joint, I could stick a long 2X4 between the lower 'A' arm and bumper stop to pry the 'A' arm down enough to get the axles in and out. No need to take the studs off the differential flange.
              Ready to put the rotors and brake calipers back on with repacked wheel bearings, new front brake pads and new Rancho 5000 shocks. Total cost of two new(not reman) axles, brake pads and shocks; about $340.
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              Old Oct 29, 2008 | 09:49 AM
                #27  
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              I got my 2 CV's today and my ball joint kit (upper, lower, TRE's) is there anything else I should (mandatory) do while I have this all apart??
              thanks
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              Old Oct 29, 2008 | 10:01 AM
                #28  
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              Maybe re-pack the wheel bearings (I didn't). Other than than, not really.
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              Old Oct 29, 2008 | 10:05 AM
                #29  
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              Replace wheel studs if the are rusting. Mine rusted so that they were getting narrower where the wheel sits when its bolted on. If that makes sense.
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              Old Nov 10, 2008 | 09:38 PM
                #30  
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              Gah right now i can get my cv to slide out, its stuck on the bolts where the cv mounts to the diff flange..

              any tips? i have pics, will be up soon
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              Old Nov 10, 2008 | 09:53 PM
                #31  
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              Maybe let the A-arm unflex a bit, get the CV to clear the diff flange, then flex the A-arm again, once its clear.
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              Old Nov 10, 2008 | 09:56 PM
                #32  
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              This should pretty much explain whats going on...

              Name:  P6020751.jpg
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Size:  89.3 KB
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              Old Nov 10, 2008 | 10:04 PM
                #33  
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              If it makes any difference, this cv is shot... it doesnt even rotate as one piece.. so im thinking where it mustve seperated this is what makes it longer, so thus making it harder to slide out?
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              Old Nov 10, 2008 | 11:06 PM
                #34  
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              Your CV ain't supposed to look like that. Its definitely not salvageable. I would just muscle it out with a pry bar.
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              Old Nov 11, 2008 | 05:36 AM
                #35  
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              From: The Gorge
              I was looking at exactly the same thing about a month ago:

              By taking the four bolts off the lower ball joint, I could stick a long 2X4 between the lower 'A' arm and bumper stop to pry the 'A' arm down enough to get the axles in and out. No need to take the studs off the differential flange.
              I recently installed two new front axles (Cardone) on my 95 SR5, about $90 each, about $20 more than reman axles.
              They fit pretty good except for the groove where the 'C' ring goes in to hold the serrated axle washer was not exactly where the stock groove was. The groove was a few hundredths of an inch, about the width of the washer, too close to the bronze bushing. It was impossible to get the washer and 'C' clip back in the groove without modifying the washer.
              If I had to do it again, I would make sure the washer and clip fit before bolting the axle shafts to the differential flange. If the groove was too close to the bushing, as it was in this case, I would probably take a few hundredths off the bushing, surface it nice and flat. If you got axles later where the groove was in the correct location, you could add an extra washer.
              I don't know if this is a common thing with aftermarket axles, but it's something you might want to check as you install them.
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              Old Nov 11, 2008 | 06:47 AM
                #36  
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              ah great, thanks guy.
              I know that cv is destroyed.... im still amused how i did that haha.
              ah, time to get a coffee and start wrenching!
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              Old Nov 14, 2008 | 06:12 PM
                #37  
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              ?

              I've been trying to replace my front drivers OUTER cv boot for about 5 hours now today but am having some trouble.... I wiped most of the grease out and took of the hub and spline nut and upper A arm but how do i disconnect it to remove the old boot and put on a new one? Is there a snap ring on the inside or the outside like mentioned about the inner boot?? It is too long and I can't get it quite all the way out since the break line is holding it back. Also the 4 four bolts up by the inner boot I could not get off... I even tried heating them......Any Ideas???
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              Old Nov 14, 2008 | 06:19 PM
                #38  
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              4 bolts? i though there were six?
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              Old Nov 14, 2008 | 06:20 PM
                #39  
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              this should help
              https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ctures-158106/
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              Old Nov 15, 2008 | 11:12 AM
                #40  
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              You are probably right, there may have been 6. Eaither way they were not comming out.....
              I checked out that post yesterday and they relplaced the whole thing, I just want to know if I can some how get the outer boot off without taking the 6 bolts off up top???
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