Ya i have a 90 4x4 pickup and i was wonder ing what is involved in changing out the outer boot

 

there are a ton of threads if you search this i mean like a library of threads about this that include step by step instruction of how to do it.

 

Just replace the whole axle/halfshaft assembly.

Should be $69.99 after core charge at Autozone with lifetime guarantee

 

tc,
i wish that was the cost up here! i just payed 123 plus an 80 dollar core charge at autozone! feel like picking one up for me and shipping it out with receipt so i can get my core back? lol

 

$40 repair kit from the stealer. If the tear isn't bad and it hasn't been long, why replace the whole axel? Either way, yer still gonna hafta pull the shaft out. PITA.

 

I just finished doing the drivers side on my 91 4Runner. I had planned to just change the boots, they were both ripped, I had even bought the boots. But when I got the axle off and saw how much trouble it was going to be to put new boots on I went right back to Oreilly and traded the boots for the whole axle. It was $80 and has a lifetime warranty, cant beat that!

I also searched all the threads before I got started and I still had some trouble getting it out. I ended up taking out two of the pressed studs and it was still not coming out. The axle shaft was hitting the lower control arm and binding up before it would drop out. I ended up figuring out that by putting a jack under the hub(not the rotor, you need max leverage), and leave the other side tire on the ground, then jacking up on that until the control arm hits the bump stop that it will allow the shaft to get out of the bind and drop on out. I also had to remove my sway bar connection from the lower control arm, it was binding on the outer boot and I didnt want to risk tearing the new boot so I just removed it. Its really easy to remove....I used an impact with a deep socket from underneath.

I then put warn hubs on to hopefully avoid anymore torn boots, the boots on the other side of my truck look like theyre ready to go soon.

While your crawling around there check your idler arm bushings. Mine were gone, grab your connecting rod and try to move it. If it does then I bet those bushings are the problem. I had to go to Toyota for the bushings.

Good luck and keep us posted!

 

Huh? Which point are you trying to make? My point is that it's a PITA to do the boots, and you really won't know if you did it right until it's too late. It's all extra labor that you do for putting in a known good halfshaft assembly...Also, there will be no warranty on your boot repair, so when they rip again (and assuming you take this off road, they will) you're out another $40, plus the extra time.

Taking the assembly out is not tough at all. You could search and find more, but after doing it 4 times (two CV failures and once to drop the diff for a locker install), I've got it pretty much down. LOL

1) Lift the truck
2) Remove the wheel
3) Loosen the 6 nuts holding the CV to the stub axle (it helps to have your assistant stand on the brakes here). Note: they are pressed in studs - you have to loosen the nut side, as the bolt head side does not turn. 17mm
4) Remove the dome cover cap on the hub
5) Remove the bolt and washer under that cover. 10mm (I think)
6) Remove the 6 connecting bolts (17mm)
7) (As mentioned above) Jack the A-arms as high as possible. Get the jack as far out to the end of the arm as possible (under the spindle)
8) Pull the CV out

To reinstall, reverse the process. It helps to knock out the studs before trying to install the new one as you have to be careful with the new one not to compress or extend it too much. You can press them out with a BIG c-clamp and a deep well socket, or knock them out with a long drift (I used the beam from my hi-lift jack last time). Ideally, you would replace them with bolts to make it easier next time. They are M12-1.25. I didn't see any grade marks on mine, but replaced them with Grade 10.9 anyways (about $1/ea).

 

TC, what locker did you put in there? I'm probably going to be dropping my diff to get the oil pan out so now would be the time for me to do it. I had ADD but have installed warn hubs so a locker should not effect street driving at all right? To be honest the only 4wheelin I do is mud/sand getting to fishing spots.

Putting in regular bolts instead of studs sounds like a great idea! When I changed my CV shaft getting those two studs back in was a pain. I dont want to do it 12 times if I dont have to!

Dropping the diff isnt to bad is it? Ive already changed the valve cover gaskets and a cv shaft so the old 3.0 and I have met. I'm getting ready to do the timing belt, check out my other post.

 

if your going to put a locker in put it in the rear first.

 

I bought boots only for mine. $20 a piece. so while you can replace the entire axle assembly for cheep, your still gonna want to rebuild those half shafts to have for spairs so either way your still gonna need the boots.

if your just gonna toss old ones in the trash send them to
4100 alma 63116 care of Snap-on

note you will HAVE to remove at least half the bolts that are "pressed" into the fixed inner axle. Some use a socket and c-clamp, i used the punch and BFH method.

 

Not to threadjack, but I did ARB. I don't necessarily agree with the "do the rear first" statement. IMHO, you stand to do A LOT of damage to the CV's wheeling with an open diff. That axle spools up major RPMs when leaving the ground, then comes slamming down, and there's nothing you can do about it. The damage people attribute to the IFS from lockers is entirely preventable - don't wedge your front tires in places, and if you do, turn off the locker or unlock the hub. I'm having issues with my rear locker (install related), so ran this weekend with just the front, and it helped A LOT.

Back to the thread...dropping the front diff is a bit of a PITA. The bolts on mine were seized something fierce. Putting it back in was as bad or worse. Do everything you want to while it's down - you don't want to drop it twice! (Gears, lockers, ADD delete, whatever)

 

dr1553 you said that it only cost you $80. Was that for the passenger side and driver side or just one side each?