ch-ch-ch-ch-check it out!!! *PICS*
#22
3rd on the valve cover filter. I tried that as well, but had issues with oil seeping, smell and such.
Bit confused as the the second filter above your timing cover. I thought that line originally lead to the intake. I thought that the intake fed vacuum to that line. If my thoughts are right, which would be rare, the filter you have does very little, as the tube is no longer pulling or pushing air. Guess it keeps stuff out of the pipe.
I had to route lines from both your filter locations to my intake. My intake is PVC, so I just threaded in brass bushings with barbs for the hose. Make sure you don't use any nuts to hold your lines on the intake if you end up going this route. They may vibrate free and get sucked into places a nut should never be.

I had some extra header wrap so figured what the heck. Hard to see, but one of the lines comes under and around the intake. Your timing chain filter pipe is just located at the upper left corner of my pic, and you can see the hose crosses over the alternator on it's way back to the ISR.
I sure have a handle on the technical terms for the plumbing under the hood... don't I?
Bit confused as the the second filter above your timing cover. I thought that line originally lead to the intake. I thought that the intake fed vacuum to that line. If my thoughts are right, which would be rare, the filter you have does very little, as the tube is no longer pulling or pushing air. Guess it keeps stuff out of the pipe.
I had to route lines from both your filter locations to my intake. My intake is PVC, so I just threaded in brass bushings with barbs for the hose. Make sure you don't use any nuts to hold your lines on the intake if you end up going this route. They may vibrate free and get sucked into places a nut should never be.

I had some extra header wrap so figured what the heck. Hard to see, but one of the lines comes under and around the intake. Your timing chain filter pipe is just located at the upper left corner of my pic, and you can see the hose crosses over the alternator on it's way back to the ISR.
I sure have a handle on the technical terms for the plumbing under the hood... don't I?
#23
#26
lol. aint nothin like throwin on a nice coat of mud on ur new mods. i cant wait to get my new tires and wheels and mudflaps dirty myself. now if only i can find a place to wash my truck b4 i go home so my parents dont figure out ive been in the mud again...
#27
thanks for the comments guys. no. this is in no way CA emissions legal. i don't really care right now though. i only tried this setup because i figured that i could still tap the tube if i need to.
does anyone have a link to something that can walk me through calibrating my TPS???
i need it bad!
does anyone have a link to something that can walk me through calibrating my TPS???
i need it bad!
#28
#30
It's pretty touchy. I was working on a 3.0, but I understand that they are very similiar.
I think I got it close. Seems to be working. Feeler gauges are important, a good voltmeter and when the TPS is off it's a good time to do the allen bolt swap that 4Crawler suggests to make future adjustments possible. No one can really reach the factory phillip heads effectively when the TPS is in place.
There is a gasket for the throttle body on a 3.0 that should be replaced if the throttle body is pulled. May want to make sure you have a spare handy before you start.
I think I got it close. Seems to be working. Feeler gauges are important, a good voltmeter and when the TPS is off it's a good time to do the allen bolt swap that 4Crawler suggests to make future adjustments possible. No one can really reach the factory phillip heads effectively when the TPS is in place.
There is a gasket for the throttle body on a 3.0 that should be replaced if the throttle body is pulled. May want to make sure you have a spare handy before you start.
#31
Looks nice. I would have to say though that your "threaded rod" sway bar disconnect setup is not strongest way to do it. The treads are rolled into that soft rod. I would check them often they may break.
#32
they're doin' the trick so far. i'm thinking about just eliminating the damn swaybar. btw, those ain't threaded rod...they're real bolts. grade 8.
Last edited by yotasavg; May 18, 2007 at 03:57 PM.


