I tore the outer CV boot on my 86 Toyota 4runner wheelin this past weekend. I followed my haynes manual step by step (removing wheel, removing auto hubs, removing C-clip, unbolting differential side of the axle) but when it came time to pull the axle out, I couldn't get it out. Does having BJ spacers change anything? I unbolted my sway bar and still I can't get it out. Anyone have any tips to get it out of there?

 

You will need to undo the lower control arm. You cannot remove it without being able to move the spindle out an inch or three.

 

unbolt the lower shock bolt, unbolt both sides of the sway bar. unbolt the lower ball joint. move hub out of the way, pry down on the lower control arm and it should come right out

 

Meh - I don't think you have to take the spindle apart.

I have good luck with jacking up the suspension as much as possible. Get the jack under the the balljoint. Put a jackstand under the opposite side rear to get a little more leverage on the suspension.

 

Oh - and pressing out a couple of the studs on the stubaxle will make life a TON easier.

 

Thanks for the quick reply guys. Looks like I'm dropping the lower control arm. I just wonder why it doesn't say to do it in the haynes manual or this write-up ( http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/ab_sus...277530,00.html ). Is it because of the BJ spacers?

When I get this axle out I'll consider swapping the studs for bolts, but if I have to drop the lower control arm every time I swap an axle it probably won't change much.

 

you only need to take out the 4 bolts for the lower ball joint so you can pry down on the control arm. The arm doesnt need to come out and you don't need to press out any studs. That will just make it harder on you. It really isnt that hard. Once you do it, you wont mind doing it again

 

Wow, I didn't go through nearly that much trouble to remove the control arm, bj's, etc.

I did basically what tc said. I dropped the respective side fully and put another jack (a bottle jack, in fact...I could work it while still under the vehicle) under the control arm to manipulate the height as needed. There is a semi-circular cut out on the axle shaft on mine that I was able to squeeze by. I pushed the cv axle in towards the wheel as much as I could and just worked the axle until I slid passed the cut out. It was years ago the last time I had to replace them, but I remember it just took a lot of tinkering and tweeking until they finally came out.

 

Matt, that's why I'm thinking it's the BJ spacers. It would make sense that the steering knuckle wouldn't go as high when I jack it up because of the BJ spacer. I'm sure that the axle isn't coming out unless I unbolt the lower ball joint.

 

Ah well, plus's and minus's to everything. Mine doesn't have the spacers, so you're probably right. Have fun. Pack a big hammer.

 

If you knock out the studs and either replace them with high grade bolts or just grind off the flange the word is you can even change CV's on the trail. Without the studs in the way the differential side just drops out of the way.

 

x2 on knocking out 2-3 studs on one side, shouldn't have to drop LCA, just jack it up as much as you can before the truck comes off the jackstands and you should be fine.

Chris

 

I had your same issue on my 93. I lowered the suspension all the way and it didnt clear the bolts on the flange. I finally got it out by raising the control arms up with a jack (almost above ride height) and the axle slid out through the bottom.

BTW...I did this with the tire still on in a parking lot

 

Right! That's what I wound up doing, now that you mention it. The whole experience was about as bad as untangling christmas lights.....

 

My truck has BJ spacer and one side of my axle boot was torn .I had to remove the studs from the inside of the axle. Even with diff drop I was still stuck.I removed the stabilizer and bolts still stuck.So I figured I had to drop the whole front diff to finally get the axle out.It worked out and I did it all in less than 2 hours and had the truck back on the road in time for basketball practice that day.Luckily my whole front end was very clean like brand new.

 

hmmm, only unbolted the lower shock, pushed it as far into the spindle as possible and wiggled it past the studs. you have to hold you nose in just the right way for it to come out! jk on that last bit, it can be a bit fussy but it is doable.

lee

 

If your tortion bars are cranked up too high, you won't be able to get it out. The control arms need to be at "stock" ride height to get it out. Its either that or knock the studs out of the diff end.

 

yeah when i rebuilt my motor i dropped the front difff to get the pan out and all i did was take out the 6 bolts and pushed it to the wheel and out she came easy as pie no lift no jack nothing and with 31's on you can wiggle your way under it with out a jack and all i had to do to get it all the way out was undo the hub and unblot the cv easy easy about 20 minutes with tools and parts not a big job all with the car on the ground at that too

 

as for it being stock hight ha i had 5/3 of the motor out only the block pistons and crank were in it and she slid on out