I found a little more about porting and polishing. But what is the maximum that you would be able to bore the 3.0 out to? And what would a machine shop charge to do it? And would you be able to simply use larger piston rings or would you have to upgrade the pistons themselves?

 

SEARCH! Call a machine shop and ask how much it would be. All machine shops are different but im sure someone will say what they paid. You need new pistons. lol "can i use bigger rings" good one.

My friend is running 0.050 over on his 3vz.

 

And the question is why on a 3.0

 

The rings, pistons and bore all must match. Your machine shop will need to have your pistons in order to correctly bore the cyllinders. IMHO I would not trust a machinist who says otherwise.

 

Most people don't choose to polish turds.

 

but it CAN be done! I seen it on Mythbusters

 

You can find 3VZE pistons & rings OS .020", .030", .040" from several sources off-the-shelf. Any larger will likely need to be custom built.

I recently replaced mine with STD size. I'd gladly have went with .040" OS pistons & rings for the same price. But, I couldn't afford the block work unfortunately.

I have a friend with an 86 PU that's got a 22RE bored-over .050" in it. His engine's stock other than that(no cam, no OS valves, no P&P, no forged internals, stock exhaust). It runs great for him.

So, to answer your question I'll pose another. If an otherwise stock 22RE can handle that much more bore, why wouldn't a 3VZE?

 

im not trying to be mean, but if you are seriously asking this question then you need to do A LOT more research before you do any kind of port and polishing or internal engine work. you can greatly degrade an engines flow with a bad P&P job or cause severe damage if you use the wrong pistons in a bored out block.

 

Motive power output of a combustion engine is directly proportional to the engine displacement. Engine displacement does not include the volume of the combustion chamber.

Engine displacement is determined from the bore and stroke of an engine's cylinders. The bore is the diameter of the circular chambers cut into the cylinder block.



Are you up to speed yet?

Or shall we explore further?

 

Thanks Mudhippy. I guess my question was asked poorly. I understand that I can go up to .040 and purchase those pistons from other specialty places around. I really was just wondering if you have to pay more for a larger bore. I really dont know why I was wondering that particular question but on that day I was. Tomorrow im picking up a 3.0 engine with a blown head gasket. The guy is giving it to me since I fixed his 4wd vacuum problem. Im in med school and I have forgotten a lot of what I learned when I rebuilt my 300zx 3.0vg. I figured that slowly over time i would rebuild this 3.0vze and see what happens. I need a project to take my mind out of the grinder occasionally. My whole idea was that I would rebuild the engine as fun project and an insurance policy for the 228k engine I have in my 95 now.

By the way. Did you edit your post from yesterday? I could have sworn last night it said "of the shelf"

 

I don't think boring will give you that much more power. I would go with cams and some good heads

 

If I can get a set of .040 pistons for the same price I figure why not. There is a shop here in Memphis that will bore it for 225. Im not sure what else they are going to want to do to it before but I will do my homework and see.

 

bore and stroke .040 over is as much as you will want to go. you can go .060 but that is the absolute limit. if you go .040 you will be able to do it again later and if you go .060 once the rings go it will scar the cylinders enough to make the block trash.

bend, their is no replacement for displacement. a huge cam and heads will only flow as much air as the cylinders will pull in.

 

Wow CONGRATULATIONS...you found wikipedia on the interwebz haha.

My question was why bother with the 3.0...Everyone else seemed to get the whole why polish a turd - guess you missed it? Thanks for the definition however.

And displacement is not everything...things have changed since the displacement wars in the 70's

 

I have seen a polished turd before. A man wore it on a necklace to remind him anything is possible. Kinda creepy but I get the metaphor. A turd is all I have to polish now. Its really not about the end product as much as it is the adventure for me. I want to have fun doing this and learn along the way. In med school we cut open cadavers, not to try and fix them but to learn. This engine is meant to be fun as a project. If it works then great. If not. Im sure I will have learned a lot. And still have some spare parts left over for when mine crap out. But I am going to give it a shot. I will take pics and I will keep everyone up to date. Along with an accurate detailing of the expenses.

 

THERE'S NO REPLACEMENT FOR DISPLACEMANT!!!

Just as true now as ever.

Sorry there little buddy.

But...If it makes you feel any better I'll go ahead and tell you that your WAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYY smarter than I am.

 

I'm sorry, but that doesn't even count. At 19000 rpm you'll be pulling in as much fuel as an 8 liter, which the 3.slo clearly can't do, and among other things you have to pre-heat the oil before you start it.

 

I beg to differ...Im afraid engine design isn't all about who has the biggest cylinders any longer.

For the record im not talking about intelligence of either of us, and im not sure what you are trying to prove in your little wikipedia based arguments you seem to be starting. All im saying is times have changed....Before the days of EFI and forced induction displacement WAS the only way to increase power. Everyone loves the sound of a big block rumble, but it is very closed minded to believe displacement is everything in today's engines.

I think it is medicine time for you anyway old fella...or maybe you have your periods for the month - do you want a tampon?

And max, where not talking about fuel usage, engine efficiency is a whole other argument.

 

At 19000 RPM you'll be pulling in as much fuel as an 8 liter at about 4000 RPM.
Put a tranny behind that, a driveline, then axles, and you can see why at 19000 RPM, that engine is twice the engine an 8 liter is.

 

x2 on peow

displacement is not the only factor for power anymore. How the engine uses that displacement is a huge deal. As far as op situation goes, i say swap in a 3.4. Its not super hard, finding donor and correct parts for the swap is the tricky part. And you stated you were looking for a fun build? Build the 3.4 (motor came with a FACTORY supercharger on some packages) And there's plenty of aftermarket support. Everyone knows that the 3.0 has headgasket issues. I was told by my buddy at toyota "the heads are the biggest problem" They were designed for efficiency and emissions, not power. But if you do decide 3.0, have a machine shop mic it and only bore as much as needed, rebuild the heads, and get headers! Headers will help with the longevity of the motor. It will reduce the risk of the other common problem with the 3.0 which is burnt valves on the 4th and mainly 6th cyl which is also where the head gasket fails most often. Good luck on your build and make sure to take lots of pics!