I have a 1st gen '89 4runner with the 3.0.
I had just remembered that my mechanic told me after smogged it last time that the timing was retarded. I am sure I just didn't get the timing spot on after I changed the timing belt a few years back and I never remembered to barrow a gun to check that. Now, many months after being told it is off, I want to correct this. But using a paper clip to do that short in that socket (or whatever it is called) under the hood doesn't work now for some reason. So, I can't check the timing the normal way.
My mechanic told me he has run into that before, but couldn't remember if he found a solution. He told me to just google it. I have searched and have come up with nothing. Maybe I am just not typing it in the best way. In any case I am stuck. Anybody have a work around or know how to fix that issue of the paper clip not shorting as it should?
Thank you

BTW, I will clue you in to what I think is something totally separate, just in case it is not. I was dealing with increasing an idle surge issue. It had reached epic proportions and I could not find the issue myself and broke down and took to my mechanic not long ago. He said the he adjusted the TPS (only 3 yrs old) and the idle screw a bit and it went away. But now the idle is often (not always) too low when the vehicle is warm. I have not had the chance to take it back to him. I just thought I'd mention this in case it is tried together somehow.
Again, thank you

 

The most common issue for diagnostics mode not triggering is spreading of the terminals and the dielectric grease causing them not to connect with what you are using for a jumper.

The second most common issue is a badly.adjusted TPS that doesn't have the IDLe circuit closed.

 

Thanks my good man. That makes total sense. After he adjusted the TPS to try to solve the idle surge issue is when I tried to check the timing and couldn't. He must not have adjusted it correctly. I'll have to have him try again.

If anybody else has an insight before I call my mechanic and blame him, please let me know.

 

Put the jumper in and check light on the dash if the tps is not to.spec it will flash a trouble code other wise it's a steady flash.

 

I took it out for some errands today and it was worse. The idle surge issue is still gone, but every time I drive it, it is at a different idle speed, but it stays at that speed throughout the that journey (until I stop and restart it). Today, after it got to full temp the idle was at 900. Starting it after my first stop it was idling at 550, the next at 700. Then before I left for home it was at 500, it even stalled just sitting at idle. By the time I got off the hwy is was at 1000.
Do you think I just need to replace my TPS or does it sound like another issue? I doubt it would be doing this when the TPS just needs a minor adjustment.
Thanks

 

The first thing to check with inconsistent idle is whether the throttle plate is closing. Easy enough; whenever you think it's idling "too" fast, pop the hood and push the throttle closed with your finger. Does the engine speed drop and stay there? Then the spring in the throttle body is not pulling the plate closed. There's all kinds of stuff hanging on that spring (throttle cable to accelerator, throttle cable to auto trans, cruise control, throttle unloader, throttle damper, ....), so it only takes a little bit of gunk or a bent linkage.

 

I thought I'd try doing the paper clip short one more time before going forward testing other stuff or ordering a part. After a few times of readjusting it, I got it to work. I got engine codes flashing, 12 and 71. 71 is EGR and 12 is a can of worms. So, I thought I'd try swapping the computer first (since I had one on hand). That was it, the problems are now gone. I will just need to readjust the idle after I do the timing and I should be all set.
Thanks yall for your help and comments.