What was broken to lock it up like that?

 

got real friendly with a creek...

 

So I started to try and take out the starter, what a PITA that is! How many bolts hold that thing on? I've got one 14mm off of it, but I can't seem to find any other bolt that would be connecting the housing to the vehicle. I've located a really long bolt that seems to connect the starter to something, but it is too long to take out cuz it hits a steel plate. Any idea?

 

Splitz,

Not sure on your rig, but generally speaking, if the starter is jammed, you will notice the starter gear remains engaged to the large engine gear (you'll only see a few teeth), If so, that's your problem.

The good news is, if you're into what you mention already, you should be able to tell if the gear is engaged or not or jammed with mud, etc. If so, the other good news is that just loosening it a bit is sometimes enough to get the gear free, sometimes helped by GENTLY nudging with a screwdriver.

The gear on most starters actually extends horizontally when it is engaged and retracts when disengaged.

-DiskDoctr

 

Splitz,

Is this the starter you have? If so, note that the long bolts are NOT the ones you want to remove. You can also see the position of the mounting bolts.

"Bosch Starter - Remanufactured 1.4kw USA built models only
Toyota Pickup V6 4WD StdBed Starter

Application: Remanufactured 1.4kw USA built models only
Fits: 09/1993 - 01/1995 Toyota Pickup V6 4WD StdBed, transmission: N/A
Important Fit Details: Vehicles made from 09/1993 to 01/1995.
Transmission Type: N/A
Brand: Bosch "

From www.drivewire.com about $100 after core trade.

Does this help?

-DiskDoctr

 

Disk Doctr,

Yes this helps emmensely. I don't know why I didn't think of looking up the part online to see where the bolts are. I actually have the other starter, but your info definately led me to it. Thanks again.

 

If you're trying to remove the whole starter don't take the long bolts out. There are two shorter bolts right near the driving gear (one on each side) and of course the electrical wiring.

 

Ladies and Gentlemen we have a problem.

Ok, so I got the starter off and tried to turn the crank pully, and nothin. I couldn't turn it one degree. Granted I didn't have the breaker bar today, but even still I would think that thing should turn pretty easily (as long as nothing is broken inside the engine).

So my question is now what? Is it really worth trying to salvage this engine or should I start parting out the Yota and start over again?

 

Dumb question, but was it in 2WD, neutral, with clutch pushed in and plugs all pulled? This is the best bet for keeping anything from binding.

Other than that, I am at a loss- have to get some advice from the experts here...

-DiskDoctr

 

No, concidering the xfer case in neutral think back at RC nothing is a stupid question.

Yes, it was in 2wd in neutral with all the plugs pulled. I did not have the clutch pushed in though, I can give it a shot (heck anything is worth trying at this point), but I really don't think it will make that much of a difference.

 

Well, I think it may be hammered, but I'm not qualified to pronounce it dead

The problem with hydrolocking and a V-? of any size is that when the H2O cylinder is compressing, another cylinder is forcing it up, still under partial detonation/pressure.

Fixed volume in a cylinder, with valves closed, cannot compress a fluid (at least not water significantly), big hydraulic compression piston connected to powerful mechanical advantage high speed crankshaft via a *tiny, thin, narrow rod*

Hmmm... Ever tried to stand on a straw?

This is a '94? Can't say much, but on my older Chevy stock car, we would be able to pull the valve covers and check the rods for slop or bent/broken rockers. Just had a buddy throw a rod and it was quite obvious.

I suspect you'll find the same obvious signs, but perhaps someone else with specific knowledge of this motor could advise if any other *tricks* ??

This is very different in a single cylinder motor like an ATV. Here is a picture of me a few weeks ago. This resulted in a water stall, tow, pull plug, stand on end to empty exhaust, turn over engine to blow out water, wring out air filter, empty air box, etc.

I shut it off as soon as it couldn't handle the backpressure in the exhaust and the small amounts of H20 and stalled. I NEVER try to crank it with water and under pressure (in water or with plugs in).

Figured since I can't help you fix yours, maybe it would help to know you're not the only one who's had the bottom drop out from under you unexpectedly

Enjoy!

-DiskDoctr

 

Thanks doc. Unfortunately I DID try to crank it with water and under pressure, and now I'm stuck.

So now I ask, "What now?" What should my next step be?

 

OK, Splitz, maybe im blind, but i dont see if you took your plugs out or not........if you didnt you gotta, cus water doesnt compress............ and if your rings are good and your valve guides are good its gonna be seized.

(Technically speaking, water can be compressed, but very little even at high pressures. For practical design purposes, water is considered an incompressible fluid, that is, its density does not change with pressure. The reason anything is compressible is due to how close the atoms are packed together. If you think about air, it is highly compressible because there is considerable spacing between the atoms, so it is relatively easy to force the atoms closer together. When you have a liquid, the atoms are much closer together and considerable pressure is required to make them any closer. Solids will compress some as well, but it takes significant pressure.) <-------- i stole that from another site, but if the plugs arent out your SOL..........

thats why you use tranny fluid in a cylinder if your compression is funky, theory being if the rings are shot your compression will be low ,but if your compression is ok then you put a little tranny fluid in, and if the compression spikes, that means your valve guides are also keeping compression and the tranny fluid has nowhere to go and creates more than usual compression.... By the way, Tranny fluid doesnt compress ...its hydraulic fluid

 

Well... Unless someone has some magic advice that I don't know about (very possible, especially with the smart folks on this site), I'd say it's time to check out the '07 4Runners

You might be able to pick up a used motor cheap for a '94, or if you're a motorhead, rebuild yours, depending on the amount of damage.

Me, I'd look for a used 4runner and/or motor. You might be able to pick up a rusted out one cheap ?

What kind of shape is the rest of the rig in? Any mods, tires, suspension, etc?

Do you have a pic?

Good luck.

-DiskDoctr

 

jandk2005 - No prob for being late to the party, but yeah, the plugs are out. The bad thing is they weren't taken out soon enough!

Doc - The bed has a lot of rust, and I've got trail damage below the two windows on the extended cab. As far as mods go, nothing reall to note, just some Firestone Destination MTs and an ARB bull bar.



I might try to pick this runner up. I think I got this guy down to about $3000 for it.



This way I can re-use my bull bar and my manual hubs.

 

After I gave it some thought I have decided to try and rebuild the pickup. But I have a question: WHERE DO I START?

As I see it I have 3 options:

1 - rebuild the engine
2 - install a rebuilt 3ZVE engine
3 - do the 3.4l swap

While I'm not bad at following directions, I don't really know what I am doing.

 

Where are you at?

 

Northern Virginia Area, about 45 minutes south of DC

 

do a supraswap

 

While that sounds like a good idea, I'm not ready to spend the money on a 2JZ-GTE, plus tranny, plus intallation, plus ECU, plus etc. Heck, if I were to get that engine, I'd find a way to fit it into my other car