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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 06:51 PM
  #1  
Beast 146's Avatar
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From: Lanesborough, MA
Cab Swap

hi just got a 91 extended cab and am thinking about doing a cab swap. just wondering how hard it is. i already put money down on a mint 93 extended cab so i think im going to do it regardless but im not sure what im getting into. if theres already a thread just post the link i cant seem to find one with step by step instructions which is what i want. thanks (pics help)
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 07:14 PM
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From: Souderton, PA
If you have to ask how difficult something is, then you probably shouldn't do it.

I've done quite a few, and to me its easy, triple check all wires/cables/hoses are disconnected before you start lifting the cab off.
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 07:23 PM
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From: Spokane, WA
What's the justification? Wrecked frame? Rust?
The only reason you should need to do a cab swap is in serious occasions like a rollover or frame bending..
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 07:28 PM
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From: Lanesborough, MA
Originally Posted by 4banginRunner
If you have to ask how difficult something is, then you probably shouldn't do it.

I've done quite a few, and to me its easy, triple check all wires/cables/hoses are disconnected before you start lifting the cab off.
well i was told its real easy. and how else do you learn other than trying
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 07:31 PM
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From: Lanesborough, MA
Originally Posted by peow130
What's the justification? Wrecked frame? Rust?
The only reason you should need to do a cab swap is in serious occasions like a rollover or frame bending..
rust its real bad and this one i found is spotless part of cash for clunkers only had 40,000 miles on it. shame
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 07:46 PM
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From: Cheshire county, NH
I'll assume that you have the tools necessary to do this, but will make a couple of suggestions. First, get at least a two foot piece of pipe to slide over your breaker bar or ratchet. Without a cheater bar, I would have been SOL.

Also, invest in some good penetrating oil. I swear by Kroil. You can get it from their website at kanolabs.com. When you get it, don't be stingy. Go to town on all of the body mounting bolts, starting the day before you plan to get to work.

On both 86s that I've torn down, I think that 17mm and 19mm were used for most of the larger bolts. Get good sockets, preferably impact sockets for this. I split an old Craftsman that I had lying around, it could have been dangerous, but I guess I got lucky.

Finally, it will take four of your strongest buddies to help lift the cab off and on.

Hope that helped.

P.S.- fill in your location. If you're near me, I'll lend a hand.

Last edited by Resto-noob; Mar 12, 2011 at 07:47 PM. Reason: additional sentence
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 05:18 AM
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From: Barrie, Ontario CANADA
Its a pain unless you have lots of help (4-8 guys) or a lift. I did it on my diesel swap. I had no drivetrain in the truck when I did it too.
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 07:55 AM
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From: Lanesborough, MA
Originally Posted by Flash319
Its a pain unless you have lots of help (4-8 guys) or a lift. I did it on my diesel swap. I had no drivetrain in the truck when I did it too.
is it just hard to lift it off the frame, or doing everything up to the point of lifting it off the frame
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 09:24 AM
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From: Barrie, Ontario CANADA
Getting the cab bolts out is the hardest part of disconnecting the body if you live where there is rust. The rest of the disconnection is not bad then just the lifting part. Lifting and moving the cab around is what I had the hardest time with but I did it by myself and an engine hoist......
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 09:24 AM
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From: Cheshire county, NH
The lifting is the hardest part-now I have Tom Petty stuck in my head...

Again, the ones I did were from 86, but I swear I took 95% of it apart with a 10mm and a 12mm. It's stuff you can do, just take lots of pictures. Then there's all of the stuff you can do while the cab is off-POR 15 the frame, check for oil leaks, etc. It's a great chance to do some maintenance without having to work around the body.

I actually have friends in Dalton. What's your timetable for getting started? If I'm in the area, I'd love to lend a hand.
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 11:37 AM
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From: Lanesborough, MA
Originally Posted by Resto-noob
The lifting is the hardest part-now I have Tom Petty stuck in my head...

Again, the ones I did were from 86, but I swear I took 95% of it apart with a 10mm and a 12mm. It's stuff you can do, just take lots of pictures. Then there's all of the stuff you can do while the cab is off-POR 15 the frame, check for oil leaks, etc. It's a great chance to do some maintenance without having to work around the body.

I actually have friends in Dalton. What's your timetable for getting started? If I'm in the area, I'd love to lend a hand.
i go to school 730-230 weekdays and work on weekends but skiing is coming to an end so i only work one day a weekend now. if your in town let me no ill make sure i get time off. i want to get this truck on the road asap so im working on it whenever i get the chance
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 08:03 PM
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From: Frederick, MD
Pulling a cab is pretty easy. Basically remove as much or as little of the interior as you want to lighten the load. Pull the shifter, seperate the steering shaft, disconnect the brakes (and) clutch lines, disconnect the parking brake cable, disconnect the wiring harness at the computer in the passenger kick panel and push the harness through the firewall and on to the motor, disconnect the wiring harness under the passneger seat and push it out of the cab, disconnect the alternator wiring, brake booster vacuum line, ground straps, battery cables, and radiator and heater hoses. Then double check everything before you lift.

I did mine with the help of 3 other guys on a standard cab. A lift makes things easier but muscle is cheap. We lifted the front end with the core support up over the motor and walked towards the rear, then once we were clear of the motor we walked the cab to it's resting place.
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