A/C PROBLEM, Please HELP. I need to fix fast.
07-30-2007, 11:22 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
A/C PROBLEM, Please HELP. I need to fix fast.
I have a 1995 toyota 4runner 4x4 with a 3.0 auto. My problem is, that the A/C just stopped working for about 3 miles. When I got home, it was still not working. From out of nowhere, it started working again. Any clue to why it would do this. All my fluids are good. Also, is there a fuse to any part of the A/C that would cause this? Thanks for the help.
I need to no ASAP as I'm taking a trip tomorrow and don't want to have a problem on the way in what happend today.
Thanks again.
I need to no ASAP as I'm taking a trip tomorrow and don't want to have a problem on the way in what happend today.
Thanks again.
07-30-2007, 11:57 AM
#5
Registered User
Evaorator FROZE solid.
Pressure switch kicked in to save the compressor...
Possible freon/R134 issue (low) or Thermistor issue? (wild guess I dunno AC at all)
Thermistor is supposed to shut the compressor so that the evap doesnt freeze up...
Pressure switch kicked in to save the compressor...
Possible freon/R134 issue (low) or Thermistor issue? (wild guess I dunno AC at all)
Thermistor is supposed to shut the compressor so that the evap doesnt freeze up...
07-30-2007, 12:05 PM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
No I didn't check this as not quite sure of how to do so. But if it was low, why would it start working again. Its worked fine for about 1/2 hour after it started working, and when I sut off the rig, it was still working fine. I will no more and if it is still working when I go to work. Just seems strange that it would stop working for about 3 miles, and then just start working again. If there is a saftey shut off somewhere that would be good, but I don't no anything about it at all. I guess if it happends again, I will take it to a shop unless you all can come up with something I should look for, and how to check.
07-30-2007, 12:13 PM
#7
Registered User
I have an 89 with an R12 system
It was a "port" kit installed by the dealer (when the truck was new)
IMHO the systme is "too small" as AFAIK the same kit used for the trucks and the 4Runner has more internal volume to cool...
Check the FSM - I think there's a sight glass to check for bubbles.
Also get a "meat" thermometer from a good cooking store.
Stuff it in the vent and read off the temp of the cold are that's blowing.
What you want to know is
-- how cool it blows when its working
-- how "hot" it gets when it "shuts off".
Mine was recharged in the late 90's (about 40% empty?) and again recently (took only 2oz or so).
Even now the evap tends to freeze up and it starts blowing at 50 deg when its been working for 2 hours (aka road trips). When cool it can pull down to 40 deg..
Shop suspects a faulty thermistor - but left that for me to check (its OK - its a good shop and they knew that *I* can trouble shoot the thermistor for far less than paing them to trouble shoot it)
It was a "port" kit installed by the dealer (when the truck was new)
IMHO the systme is "too small" as AFAIK the same kit used for the trucks and the 4Runner has more internal volume to cool...
Check the FSM - I think there's a sight glass to check for bubbles.
Also get a "meat" thermometer from a good cooking store.
Stuff it in the vent and read off the temp of the cold are that's blowing.
What you want to know is
-- how cool it blows when its working
-- how "hot" it gets when it "shuts off".
Mine was recharged in the late 90's (about 40% empty?) and again recently (took only 2oz or so).
Even now the evap tends to freeze up and it starts blowing at 50 deg when its been working for 2 hours (aka road trips). When cool it can pull down to 40 deg..
Shop suspects a faulty thermistor - but left that for me to check (its OK - its a good shop and they knew that *I* can trouble shoot the thermistor for far less than paing them to trouble shoot it)
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07-30-2007, 12:19 PM
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
I have an 89 with an R12 system
It was a "port" kit installed by the dealer (when the truck was new)
IMHO the systme is "too small" as AFAIK the same kit used for the trucks and the 4Runner has more internal volume to cool...
Check the FSM - I think there's a sight glass to check for bubbles.
Also get a "meat" thermometer from a good cooking store.
Stuff it in the vent and read off the temp of the cold are that's blowing.
What you want to know is
-- how cool it blows when its working
-- how "hot" it gets when it "shuts off".
Mine was recharged in the late 90's (about 40% empty?) and again recently (took only 2oz or so).
Even now the evap tends to freeze up and it starts blowing at 50 deg when its been working for 2 hours (aka road trips). When cool it can pull down to 40 deg..
Shop suspects a faulty thermistor - but left that for me to check (its OK - its a good shop and they knew that *I* can trouble shoot the thermistor for far less than paing them to trouble shoot it)
It was a "port" kit installed by the dealer (when the truck was new)
IMHO the systme is "too small" as AFAIK the same kit used for the trucks and the 4Runner has more internal volume to cool...
Check the FSM - I think there's a sight glass to check for bubbles.
Also get a "meat" thermometer from a good cooking store.
Stuff it in the vent and read off the temp of the cold are that's blowing.
What you want to know is
-- how cool it blows when its working
-- how "hot" it gets when it "shuts off".
Mine was recharged in the late 90's (about 40% empty?) and again recently (took only 2oz or so).
Even now the evap tends to freeze up and it starts blowing at 50 deg when its been working for 2 hours (aka road trips). When cool it can pull down to 40 deg..
Shop suspects a faulty thermistor - but left that for me to check (its OK - its a good shop and they knew that *I* can trouble shoot the thermistor for far less than paing them to trouble shoot it)
Last edited by keithguts; 07-30-2007 at 12:21 PM.
07-30-2007, 12:32 PM
#9
Registered User
FSM = factory service manual
I dont have it handy..
I recall that bubbles meant coolant (freon/r135a) was low
Thermistor is in the evap box - should have its own plug.. FSM should have resistance measurements - my FSM doesnt last I looked...
I dont have it handy..
I recall that bubbles meant coolant (freon/r135a) was low
Thermistor is in the evap box - should have its own plug.. FSM should have resistance measurements - my FSM doesnt last I looked...
07-30-2007, 03:48 PM
#11
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had both of my past toyota trucks (87 and 90)do exactly the same thing.
it must be something that freezes.
mine would only do it on the hottest most humid days after about 2 hours of city driving. after 15 or 20 minutes shut off, everything back to normal.
it could be worse, and be like my volvo, which needs recharging every summer it seems.
it must be something that freezes.
mine would only do it on the hottest most humid days after about 2 hours of city driving. after 15 or 20 minutes shut off, everything back to normal.
it could be worse, and be like my volvo, which needs recharging every summer it seems.
07-31-2007, 05:59 AM
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
had both of my past toyota trucks (87 and 90)do exactly the same thing.
it must be something that freezes.
mine would only do it on the hottest most humid days after about 2 hours of city driving. after 15 or 20 minutes shut off, everything back to normal.
it could be worse, and be like my volvo, which needs recharging every summer it seems.
it must be something that freezes.
mine would only do it on the hottest most humid days after about 2 hours of city driving. after 15 or 20 minutes shut off, everything back to normal.
it could be worse, and be like my volvo, which needs recharging every summer it seems.
07-31-2007, 07:06 AM
#13
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is your motor idling up when the compressor kicks on? if it isnt its electrical, like that pressure switch underneath the passenger side glove box. little cylindrical silver thing. cost about 10 bucks i think. mine did the same all the time for about 6 months till i finally figured it out. had an electrical plug at the very back of the intake plenum coming loose from its connection. if it is low on freon it will freeze up, and should be the same results as overcharging the system. hope this helps, tim.
07-31-2007, 07:26 AM
#14
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Thread Starter
is your motor idling up when the compressor kicks on? if it isnt its electrical, like that pressure switch underneath the passenger side glove box. little cylindrical silver thing. cost about 10 bucks i think. mine did the same all the time for about 6 months till i finally figured it out. had an electrical plug at the very back of the intake plenum coming loose from its connection. if it is low on freon it will freeze up, and should be the same results as overcharging the system. hope this helps, tim.
07-31-2007, 03:51 PM
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07-31-2007, 04:33 PM
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then it sounds to me that your air condition works great when it does.. has to be electrical i would think. find the pressure switch and replace it with another one. i'll stay tuned. this happens all the time on older chevrolet pickups so i assume it could happen just the same in this instance.
07-31-2007, 08:12 PM
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On a properly charged system you will see bubbles when the compressor first kicks on, but they should clear pretty quickly. When the compressor kicks off you will see the bubbles come back, and then the sight glass will appear empty....this will happen over and over as the compressor cycles. If you see bubbles continuously, then the system is low on refrigerant. If you see no bubbles, but oily streaks, the system is empty.
While the sight glass is helpful, it is not the most accurate way of measuring the refrigerant level.
Sound like you may be freezing up as some have mentioned, or if the engine is overheating it can also cause the system to kick off until it cools back down (but your cold start experiment makes it sound like these are not the problem). Something is kicking your compressor off...
While the sight glass is helpful, it is not the most accurate way of measuring the refrigerant level.
Sound like you may be freezing up as some have mentioned, or if the engine is overheating it can also cause the system to kick off until it cools back down (but your cold start experiment makes it sound like these are not the problem). Something is kicking your compressor off...
Last edited by nieuwendyk-25; 07-31-2007 at 08:14 PM.
