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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Burping the radiator

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Old Dec 3, 2007 | 08:31 PM
  #21  
slater442w30's Avatar
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From: Oregon
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-22150-Sp.../dp/B0002SR6WK

Use one of these, they work awesome, we use them in the shop every day. It holds enough coolant and it is above radiator level, you fill it up, let the rig warm up and the air comes back up through the funnel and it fills the system at the same time, works every time (except on 95 chevy monte carlo, but we dont care since we are smart enough to own Toyota's)
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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 05:27 PM
  #22  
ernest t bass's Avatar
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From: Point Loma, California
not much help

i had same problem following a replacement of the back heater hose.

ran fine and 1/2 up the guage untill the engine is shut off. then the guage starts to climb to 3/4 up the guage or higher ( STRESS )

tried filling the back of the the motor through the rear heater hose at the suggestion of my junkyard guy. no change

parked on an incline and let it run with no cap for 30 minutes. no change.

climing a freeway grade yesterday and the guage starts going up and up.

guage keeps heading for the red, so i shut it down and get out the have a look see.

THE BOTTOM RADIATOR HOSE BLEW OFF

so i put the hose back on, filled the thing up and its been perfect since. runs at 1/3 up the guage and never gets above 1/2 even after i shut it off.
I CANT EXPLAIN IT.
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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 05:55 PM
  #23  
thook's Avatar
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
It was either Satan or the clamp wasn't tight enough....my best guess.
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 02:23 PM
  #24  
linuxrunner's Avatar
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From: Gladstone, Oregon
Originally Posted by thook

The control cable (the blue one) being broken or remove is nothing to worry about, unless when you are servicing the coolant system and burping it the heater valve is not open when you think it is....going by the control shifter. I don't see how you are able to switch from hot to cold if that cable is disconnected. Telekenesis? The cable on my '86 had been broken for a long time. So, everytime I have to service it, or come winter so I have heat, I have to open the valve under the hood. Sure I can't control the heater temp, but I can control the fan and heat output. So, I ain't worried about it.

I don't know, but it has two cables on the slider. I can manualy move the valve under the hood to closed (cold) and i got no heat weather the slider is on hot or cold. But if i leave the valve open (hot) i can change between hot or cold air. I never fixed it because i just left it open all the time thus giveing me hot or cold air at will.
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 02:24 PM
  #25  
linuxrunner's Avatar
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From: Gladstone, Oregon
Originally Posted by slater442w30
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-22150-Sp.../dp/B0002SR6WK

Use one of these, they work awesome, we use them in the shop every day. It holds enough coolant and it is above radiator level, you fill it up, let the rig warm up and the air comes back up through the funnel and it fills the system at the same time, works every time (except on 95 chevy monte carlo, but we dont care since we are smart enough to own Toyota's)
Yeah, my home made funnel was a little bigger than that and not nearly as pretty, but did the same thing
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 03:26 PM
  #26  
bigarms23's Avatar
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From: Kingman AZ
my radiator did the same thing so what i did was drained the rad used my compressed air to blow out the stuborn fluid that reatched it and it didnt have that problem again
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Old May 12, 2008 | 11:27 AM
  #27  
linuxrunner's Avatar
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From: Gladstone, Oregon
another update...

It's summer again, so yesterday while i was under the hood i couldn't help but try again.
I also noticed that the truck seems to be running oddly and the tempature guage likes to swing back and fouth a bit now... Related?

So i pop to top off of my rad cap and start the truck up cold. Within about 2 minutes it starts overflowing... i wait. After 10 minutes or so it starts to gush out in spirts. I couln't really tell if it was gushing out air behind the coolant or not but i let it go because if i understand right it should stop gushing when all the air is out.

It contenued gushing and spitting for about 45 more minutes until i gave up again and shut it down.

I would say it spit out at least a gallon of colant, but when i let it sit and cool off it i was only able to add back about 2 cups... what gives?

If i loose a gallon and don't add anything back what is going in the space their used to be coolant?

Does this sound like a head gasket to anybody else?
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Old Jan 1, 2010 | 09:43 AM
  #28  
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results

sorry to dig up an old thread, but what happened with this? I'm having similar issues.......
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Old Jan 1, 2010 | 02:01 PM
  #29  
tacho75's Avatar
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From: antelope valley
hi if you want it.. try this
i was the owner of a jeep cherokee before and they have this problem (all)
the solution it's to drill a small hole in to the t stat and dat will take care of the problem
at least it does the trick on all cherokee's
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 05:45 AM
  #30  
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I tried that......mine is wanting to spew after driving it for about 10minutes, then it's fine for however long I drive it.
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