24Runna

When we usually buy cars we usually thoroughly mechanically inspect it, this time, we didn't. BIG mistake. I've been very worrisome lately about my 4Runner. Already paid $160 to have the front diff. seal replaced, well that wasn't what was leaking, somewhere by transmission.

Pass. CV replaced due to boots torn awhile ago, and no 4WD. After I get done with that long ordeal and CV grease all over the place 4WD still won't work, turns out to be a vacuum line that popped off. Now when I'm in 4WD I get some sort of vibration, and I have no idea what it could be, BUT I'm thinks since I saw that the front driveshaft looks to be rusty and bubbling that maybe that needs to be balanced.

Anytime on the highway, if i let off th gas I hear/feel some sort of vibration, like something is holding back. What could it be?

it's been REALLY cold lately (single digits) and I notice that whenever I turn to the right I hear an odd sound sorta like a groaning that goes along with how I'm going, and it also happens when I'm idling.

Oil pressure, how high should it be while accelerating (2.5k to 3k RPM's)

Any signs of sludge? If I floor it it will never go past 3.8k RPM's yet the red line is around 5.5k, odd to me.

Steering feels sorta loose compared to te 4th gen, and out other cars, is that normal? Can usually turn the wheel side to side almost 2 inches (combined) before you can feel any sway.

rear window sometimes won't go up, or it goes slower than hell, and i hear something like hard rubber rubbing on the window. Motor done for? or just needs to be lubed? If so how would I lube it, and other windows?

Why am I so worried? After I bought the car, I found a bunch of papers in the glove box, the PO bought it for $1,500, but am not sure what the PO did to it for me to buy it at $4,200.

But I did get a compliment yesterday. Me and some friends went laser tagging and after we went to TGI Fridays to eat, but a friend needed an excuse for being late so this one girl said to say my car broke down, but my GF and my two other friends said "no, Phil's car doesn't break down, we'll just say yours broke down" (she has a '95 Ford Taurus (lol) In which the doors don't close all the way.)

Thanks for reading, and sorry I seem like such a damn noob, if you have any useful info, post it, but if you're just gonna post negative comment don't bother.

Phil

olharleyman

Why am I so worried? After I bought the car, I found a bunch of papers in the glove box, the PO bought it for $1,500, but am not sure what the PO did to it for me to buy it at $4,200

Found a new sucker to pass the pain on too after all there's one born every minute

Just kidding With a little tinkering you'll find all the issue's get them right then it will be YOU LAUGHING at him

ALSO

24Runna

Pics will come soon, it's dirty from winter, the road salt kills everything up here. He wanted 6k for it too, but I got him down to 4,200, which is still low for the running, mostly non-rusted, low miles vehicle. The only things that are rusted is the pass. side rear wheel well area, and the tailgate.

My future wishlist:
LCE Exhaust (although I'm pretty sure I got a custom exhaust on already) $350
OME med. coils for rear $80
OME shocks for front?
new rear speakers $80
amp + custom sub location in side panel (big project) ?
Powerful alt $120
General Grabbers ATII or Firestone Destination $450
Pass side front blinker ?
Remove the pinstriping, I would do it now but the drivers side rear panel, and rear door have been re-clear coated so I would need a pro
Denso Iridium Sparks $75
NGK wires $50 (may hold off for awhile, looks like it was already done)
Custom intake tube $50
Repaint rear spoiler to match body
Fix squeaky belts and MAFV
Dynamat and sound insulate entire cabin for the quietest ride ever


Lots of stuff, little money, lol.

24Runna

Also It seems to burn oil like no other. How accurate is the dipstick? (yellow handle) And when is the optimal time to check?

But the thing is, I don't see any blue smoke at all. ever.

MMA_Alex

you check the oil with the engine off for a few minutes so that the oil drains back into the pan.

you can lube the window tracs with silicone spray lubricant.

what are you using to check oil pressure? an actual gauge, or the dummy gauge in the cluster? because the dummy just shows that it has more than like 5psi or pressure (should stay towards the middle)

the grinding on turns is likely the...um i cant remember what they're called for the life of me. look under the truck at the front axle, with the wheels locked over in one direction, and you'll see this thing that makes it so that the wheel cant turn any further. they have a little rubber cap that tends to brake, and create grindingish noises on turns. grease them every once in awhile and it goes away.

as far as vibration get underneath and try to wiggle the driveshaft at each of the u-joints. more than likely one of them is wearing out, and causing the vibration.

Seems like its got mostly minor issues that you should be able to fix.

gilby4runner

My future wishlist:
LCE Exhaust (although I'm pretty sure I got a custom exhaust on already) $350
If its got one leave it.
OME med. coils for rear $80
OME shocks for front?
new rear speakers $80
I am sure you could find some a little cheaper
amp + custom sub location in side panel (big project) ?
Powerful alt $120
General Grabbers ATII or Firestone Destination $450
Check around for better deals.
Pass side front blinker ?
Remove the pinstriping, I would do it now but the drivers side rear panel, and rear door have been re-clear coated so I would need a pro
If they have cleared over the decals then you are stuck with them. I find it hard to believe that a body shop would clear over the decals.
Denso Iridium Sparks $75
Go back with OEM plugs cheaper and they work
NGK wires $50 (may hold off for awhile, looks like it was already done)
Custom intake tube $50
Search on here and i bet you could find a way to due it cheaper. I have seen some use PVC pipe and fittings for a lot less than 50 bucks
Repaint rear spoiler to match body
Fix squeaky belts and MAFV
Dynamat and sound insulate entire cabin for the quietest ride ever


I am not trying to rain on your parade. Just trying to point out that a lot of this you can do yourself and for a lot less money than you think. Good luck!

infiltrator

for the vibrations check your u-joints. mine were messed up really badly!!!! i fixed them and my truck feels like brand new.

aviator

The grinding noise at full lock is the steering stops if you look at the lower a-arm you will see a pair of "ears" kind of... one on the front and back and another on the front and back of the front wheel, from the factory there is a plastic cover on the a-arm one but it wears through, a dab of grease on each side at each oil change should take care of it (more often if required).
The loose steering thing sound like idler arm bushings, a pretty cheap repair parts are about $5.00 all together, only PITA is getting the idler arm box off the frame so you can work on it. There is a recall that should apply to your truck for a new steering centre link check with toyota to see if it has been done yet, you may be able to get the dealer to give you a rate to fix the thing at the same time. Check out the "bronze bushing" thread for more info on alternate fixes.
What kind of oil are you running? I was using 5W30 and noticed it was a little thirsty switched back to the recommended 10W30 and problem cleared ,( I also ran a product called Engine Rstorer through a few changes it seemed to quite the lifters down and build more compression and reduce the oil burn [when I went to the 10/30 the oil burn almost stopped].)

24Runna

MMA_Alex: What kind of silicone spray do you recommend?

The dummy gauge in the cluster, but it goes below the first line while idling.

It's not the steering stops, it's something else, just when it is in the single digits and I just turn like normally.

I'll check the u-joints soon

gilby4runner: -If it has the custom exhaust, then I'll just leave it
-I'm an audiophile, I try not to buy cheap speakers.
-$450 was the total including taxes and fee's and mounting, plus free stems.
-It's quite odd really, they clear coated the driver rear door, and the driver rear quarter panel, and they did it right over the pinstripes, and now I REALLY want them off. I know a body guy that does good work so he's gonna be doing the rust and I might ask him to do that too.
-I honestly don't like the OEM plugs and prefer the aftermarket ones, I've had very good luck with them.
-Yea I've been trying to find that thread for the custom intake, but I figured it was about $50 in parts, but cheaper is better in this case.

Thanks for the pointers!

infiltrator: How did you go about fixing them?

aviator: It's not at full lock though, it's whenever I am turning and moving at the same time, but only when it's in the single digits.
-I'll go to my dealer to check for the HG, and the other recall soon
-I use Mobil1 10W30, have been looking in to getting engine restorer too

Thanks for your responses so far guys! I really appreciate it.

HairyTheWombat

when you say it only grinds in the single digits, do you mean the temp or the miles per hour?

also, have you gone through and lubed up your grease points in your drive train? this could explain the grinding if there is not much oil and it is super cold...

idanity

my brand new oil pressure sending unit (from the dealer) barely works.
it rises slightly and fall to the -0 range during idle and when just rolling to a stop or at red lights.

i heard the oil pressures were never great to begin with, and after replacing mine, i believe that.


when i replaced my window seals, (with new 80 dollar ones) the windows when up like they were lined w/silk.

i think the rubber binds up, and perhaps you can just sand them down a bit. and then lube them w/pb-blaster or white silicon .

MMA_Alex

no white silicon, just regular silicone spray lube. its clear stuff, and it's sold under a number of brand names. Just spray it into the tracks (grooves on each side of the window) and then run the window up and down a couple times

aviator

OK so it isin't the steering stops... you should lube them anyways... wink wink lol...
it is perfectly normal for the pressure gauge to drop during idle, mine usually sits just below the first mark, when driving it hangs around the middle plus or minus a hair depending on if I'm getting into it or not.
The groaning noise could be just the the cv joints I know mine sometimes make that noise when it is very cold out... nothing really wrong it's just that the grease does'nt move very well in extreme cold... get them checked for proper lubrication in any case...

24Runna

I'll lube... It's pretty dry after all the winter weather and stuff, the lube will make it smooth while they bang together....