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Broken pilot bearing is stuck, need advise

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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 10:25 PM
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From: Hillsboro, OR
Broken pilot bearing is stuck, need advise

So im in the middle of replacing my clutch. The old pilot bearing came out in pieces. The outside part is stuck in the crank. Im guessing when it went to crap it welded it self to the crank.

I tried taking a slide hammer to it, it wont go in or out. I tried takign heat then a slide hammer to it, still nothing.

I have a dremel so im going to try that. What else should i try. The grease/candle thing wont work.

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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 10:27 PM
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What can you grab with the slide hammer?
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 10:33 PM
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From: Hillsboro, OR
The back of the bearing. Its the outside "race" of the bearing.

Its in there good tho...

Last edited by Tubbyfatty; Jul 1, 2009 at 10:40 PM.
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 10:38 PM
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So is it all distorted or is there still a solid outer race strong enough to push off of?
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 10:47 PM
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what about a puller? If you can get a slide hammer on it I'm sure you can get a puller in there. those work better then slide hammers because it gives constant pressure. put the puller on it with a good amount of pressure and then tap it with a hammer.

Also while your there I would replace the rear main seal.

Last edited by Lummpus; Jul 1, 2009 at 10:48 PM.
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 10:49 PM
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From: Hillsboro, OR
Im thinking one of these on my dremel will work?

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...-03&lpage=none
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 10:50 PM
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I pulled the rear main out, the new one is sitting next to my new clutch.

There is a solid outer race still inside.

I dont think the tiny puller would work but im going to try that tomorrow. This sucker is in there good.
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 10:51 PM
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I've gotten one out with these tools: A hammer, a socket just small enough to get into the bearing center and a bunch of wet toilet paper. I was amazed the first time I saw this work. Super slick and non damaging to anything but the T.P.
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Tubbyfatty
Im thinking one of these on my dremel will work?

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...-03&lpage=none

good luck with that. those like to break apart. I think the bearing race is harder then that would be. plus you have to be careful not to nick the crank if you grind the crank it could cause problems.
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 10:52 PM
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Ive read threads about people doing that but this isnt the full bearing. Its only the outer race.
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 10:57 PM
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you could try what I was saying with the puller and with the tension on it before tapping it with a hammer try heating the crankshaft around the bearing. trying as much as you can to not heat the bearing race. that way the metal around the race expands. so when you tap it with the hammer it might be more affective.
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 10:59 PM
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Then can you reduce the diameter of the outer race? Using a sharp punch tapping the wall in towards the center maybe in a couple of places. It should deform easily enough without the rest of the bearing supporting the outer shell. Then you should be able to grab it with some needle nose pliers.
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 11:04 PM
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I had the exact thing happen to my pilot bearing, I used a Blind Hole Bearing Puller from Harbor Freight to get it out. Worked slicker than greezed owl droppings!
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 11:05 PM
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+1 in the blind hole bearing puller. They work great for motorcycle wheel bearings too. I have also used the grease method for pilot bearings, but never one that fell apart.

That bearing race is hardened steel; it isn't going to bend or distort.

If I was desperate, I might try cutting the inside of it(avoiding the crank!) in a few places with a small abrasive wheel and then hitting it with a punch hoping it would break and/or collapse.

Last edited by Dirt Driver; Jul 1, 2009 at 11:06 PM.
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 11:07 PM
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From: Gladstone,Or
Originally Posted by desertcamper67
Then can you reduce the diameter of the outer race? Using a sharp punch tapping the wall in towards the center maybe in a couple of places. It should deform easily enough without the rest of the bearing supporting the outer shell. Then you should be able to grab it with some needle nose pliers.
you cant deform the outer race. their made out of hardened steel and its at least 1/8th to 5/16 thick. evn if you get it glowing red hot it won't deform it would break first. I've broken air hammer bits trying to get those things out before.
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 09:02 AM
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Thanks for the clarification. I was trying to picture this bearing and whats left of it.
Nevermind what I said before.

Now then I would try a small cutting disk on the Dremmel and if you can make a notch in the side of the race you might be able to split it with a small chisel.

How much room is behind the race? Is it concave in there or flat?

Whatever you try, good luck.
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 09:29 AM
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I just used a dremel. broke about 10 of the disks cutting it. wacked it with a chisel and it came out in pieces.
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 09:42 AM
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From: Hillsboro, OR
My friend got one of those reverse jaw pullers so i hope that works later today.

Thanks for all the tips above.
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 10:50 PM
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From: Hillsboro, OR
After about 10 min of fighting, it came out. Theres alot of heat marks (blue waves) on the race, then i cleaned inside of it with this one cloth stuff thats like sand paper and threw the new bearing inthere.

This tool is awesome.

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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 11:23 PM
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Glad you got it out. Amazing how easy things are when you have the right tool for the job.
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