broke my timing chain guide, time to rebuild (pics)
03-29-2011, 05:27 AM
#41
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Oh, and i forgot. In pasedena..... Thats roughly what RB.... 30 min. from where you live? b4wheeler told me of a place that will re-core and paint your radiator for less then a hundred bucks. The place has been there for quite sometime supposedly and is reputable. Im either going to take mine there or just buy b4wheelers old one.. 
03-29-2011, 05:48 AM
#42
i'm probably getting a radiator barn one. i've heard lots of good things about them.
also, what i was wondering with the lce quote above, is it true? i looked it up, and the brands eb lists are also in the rock auto catalog. i'm not likely to do a rebuild until i have a good, full-time job and can afford the time and money. so i'd like oem (or better) quality. lce states it on every page, but their prices are high (for a reason, i assume?). also, i found out this:
single chain, individual components (there's no complete kit)
double chain, kit (everything included, even new bolts)
if engnbldr isn't using oem parts, i dunno. i might have to go with lce on this one
also, what i was wondering with the lce quote above, is it true? i looked it up, and the brands eb lists are also in the rock auto catalog. i'm not likely to do a rebuild until i have a good, full-time job and can afford the time and money. so i'd like oem (or better) quality. lce states it on every page, but their prices are high (for a reason, i assume?). also, i found out this:
single chain, individual components (there's no complete kit)
double chain, kit (everything included, even new bolts)
if engnbldr isn't using oem parts, i dunno. i might have to go with lce on this one
03-29-2011, 05:50 AM
#43
...
Ian, something has to be said about the quality and promptness of egnbldrs customer service. Im willing to bet if you asked those guys about thier product they will tell you EXACTLY what parts they use and were they are from..... atlest that is the feeling i got. I (like Mark) am not a professional at this, but i have read numerous good things about them and NO ONE that i can recall has had a bad thing to say. Email them and ask about the quality of thier parts and see what they say. What can it hurt?
Ian, something has to be said about the quality and promptness of egnbldrs customer service. Im willing to bet if you asked those guys about thier product they will tell you EXACTLY what parts they use and were they are from..... atlest that is the feeling i got. I (like Mark) am not a professional at this, but i have read numerous good things about them and NO ONE that i can recall has had a bad thing to say. Email them and ask about the quality of thier parts and see what they say. What can it hurt?
03-29-2011, 05:59 AM
#44
Registered User
All I can say is that I've used EB stuff and I'm happy with them. Others on here have used EB as well. Some folks only use OEM. I can't tell you what to use but I'm happy with what EB has supplied me with thus far.
.
.
03-29-2011, 06:18 AM
#45
Registered User
Ian,
You will still be replacing this timing chain in 100k or so. Do what you feel comfortable with, just don't forget OEM parts fail also. I would still get a steel guide no matter what kit you choose, just another piece of insurance.
check out
http://www.22re.com/
You will still be replacing this timing chain in 100k or so. Do what you feel comfortable with, just don't forget OEM parts fail also. I would still get a steel guide no matter what kit you choose, just another piece of insurance.
check out
http://www.22re.com/
03-29-2011, 08:38 AM
#47
Registered User
I don't want to rain on your parade, but most aftermarket parts companies make the same claim.
I like the Rock kit, tensioner is Japan made IIRC, and probably other parts in the kit
I like the Rock kit, tensioner is Japan made IIRC, and probably other parts in the kit
03-29-2011, 08:53 AM
#49
Registered User
http://www.iso.org/iso/home.html
International Organization for Standards (IOS???)
Anyhow..
They create industry standards around the world, and they are non-government related.
Basically they are the reason why a standard 1/2" drive socket from Snap-On will fit a Horrible Feight ratchet.....make sense?
International Organization for Standards (IOS???)
Anyhow..
They create industry standards around the world, and they are non-government related.
Basically they are the reason why a standard 1/2" drive socket from Snap-On will fit a Horrible Feight ratchet.....make sense?
yeah... i remember now. they dun taught us that in high school. thanks
03-29-2011, 10:21 AM
#53
Hey Ian 
,
First, I like what RB is saying on the Radiator end, ..... and personally, I went local to the most reputable Radiator shop in Los Angeles. There are MANY impostors who claim "Best in L.A.", whatever, and there's always a 'catch', like, "Best in L.A. ......in 1989" when you read the fine print, until I start speaking to 'ENGINE BUILDERS' and 'FULL SWAP PRO'S'.... They all recommended this other place, and I'm glad, because like my engine, I had almost bit the bullet on a purchase that, through more research with the guys who install them, repair the results of failed components, etc., ALL told me, "NO WAY, they stink!" lol. My radiator has a different lower/driver side pipe inlet(on mine, it's 4" in from the corner, which I was told by many pro's, "that has to do with a HD radiator, a Tow Package Version, and only 1 in 100 have it, ....you have it, so you don't HAVE TO use that one, but I will get that for you if you want.") I guess it's between 2 and a rare 22re-3 core or something? (should've payed more attention, hahaha, sorry). Mine is all metal and cost a bit more, but this local shop, with core, took mine and gave me a brand new HD radiator for 175$, giving me a big discount from the orig. quote because I mentioned his favorite builder had sent me there!
ahaha. Sometimes, Ian, the "LOCAL" guys just pay more attention to detail, .....just have to 'spend a lil time asking around at the BEST RATED mechanics/builders'.
Far as the Chain kit, hahahha..... been through the same thing, man! I just wanna do things right, the first time. But, I, too, as I mentioned, used a engnbldr kit with new cover, after speaking with Tod a few times. (I used OEM Water pump, Timing Gaskets and O-ring,..got a super cheap deal, ....less than even posted,...SHHHHH, lol).
The reason I mentioned your "plans", etc. , was because, ...as RB just mentioned "100K or so, max?".... and you can't KNOW that your motor will even go that far(most likely will...but not sure, lol) before you decide/need a full rebuild, ya know?......
Edit; Altered post bcuz you already bit the bullet, and I was just shooting more out there for 'discussion', ... i mean, might as well, while you have some down time, right?
hahaha.
PS> Seems like I've pretty much GOT MY BIGGEST TICKIDY GREMLIN PRETTY QUIET, buddy! Woot! lol.
, First, I like what RB is saying on the Radiator end, ..... and personally, I went local to the most reputable Radiator shop in Los Angeles. There are MANY impostors who claim "Best in L.A.", whatever, and there's always a 'catch', like, "Best in L.A. ......in 1989" when you read the fine print, until I start speaking to 'ENGINE BUILDERS' and 'FULL SWAP PRO'S'.... They all recommended this other place, and I'm glad, because like my engine, I had almost bit the bullet on a purchase that, through more research with the guys who install them, repair the results of failed components, etc., ALL told me, "NO WAY, they stink!" lol. My radiator has a different lower/driver side pipe inlet(on mine, it's 4" in from the corner, which I was told by many pro's, "that has to do with a HD radiator, a Tow Package Version, and only 1 in 100 have it, ....you have it, so you don't HAVE TO use that one, but I will get that for you if you want.") I guess it's between 2 and a rare 22re-3 core or something? (should've payed more attention, hahaha, sorry). Mine is all metal and cost a bit more, but this local shop, with core, took mine and gave me a brand new HD radiator for 175$, giving me a big discount from the orig. quote because I mentioned his favorite builder had sent me there!
ahaha. Sometimes, Ian, the "LOCAL" guys just pay more attention to detail, .....just have to 'spend a lil time asking around at the BEST RATED mechanics/builders'. Far as the Chain kit, hahahha..... been through the same thing, man! I just wanna do things right, the first time. But, I, too, as I mentioned, used a engnbldr kit with new cover, after speaking with Tod a few times. (I used OEM Water pump, Timing Gaskets and O-ring,..got a super cheap deal, ....less than even posted,...SHHHHH, lol).
The reason I mentioned your "plans", etc. , was because, ...as RB just mentioned "100K or so, max?".... and you can't KNOW that your motor will even go that far(most likely will...but not sure, lol) before you decide/need a full rebuild, ya know?......
Edit; Altered post bcuz you already bit the bullet, and I was just shooting more out there for 'discussion', ... i mean, might as well, while you have some down time, right?
hahaha. PS> Seems like I've pretty much GOT MY BIGGEST TICKIDY GREMLIN PRETTY QUIET, buddy! Woot! lol.
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 03-29-2011 at 10:29 AM.
03-29-2011, 10:39 AM
#54
Registered User
Idk if anyone has said it before, but I highly recommend pulling the head when you do this job. There's no better way to get a good seal on the top of the tchain cover.
03-29-2011, 10:39 AM
#55
yup. now we play: the waiting game! haha
woo hoo! way to go, mark! so glad you got it taken care of. one less thing to worry about.
with what rb said about the "rebuild before 100k" thing, yea, i'll probably do a re-build sometime in the next 5 years... haha
and for the radiator, i'm going with a non-aluminum one. part of my reasoning comes from general corrosion principles. with the coolant acting as an electrolyte, the more dissimilar the metals (eg: aluminum and iron), the higher the chance of galvanic corrosion. plus, if i ever get a small leak, i can fix it with a propane torch and some solder (at least to get me home)
woo hoo! way to go, mark! so glad you got it taken care of. one less thing to worry about.
with what rb said about the "rebuild before 100k" thing, yea, i'll probably do a re-build sometime in the next 5 years... haha
and for the radiator, i'm going with a non-aluminum one. part of my reasoning comes from general corrosion principles. with the coolant acting as an electrolyte, the more dissimilar the metals (eg: aluminum and iron), the higher the chance of galvanic corrosion. plus, if i ever get a small leak, i can fix it with a propane torch and some solder (at least to get me home)
03-29-2011, 11:03 AM
#57
BUT, just remember, Ian, ....something you might not have realized/thought of.... The HG could get damaged when PULLING the cover(VERY UNLIKELY), as it's been in there for how long? More likely that would happen when the cover goes in(ALSO UNLIKELY IF YOU'RE VERY PATIENT AND CAREFUL), but since you're pulling the pan, shouldn't be as risky on that end. I even swapped out my CAM w/out pulling the head, keeping the hidden bolt in and strapping down the rear of the head on the corners, tight... MANY do that and have no issues... I think more so than the ones that do have them afterwords. Probably because people do more and more research to BE SURE they're doing everything they can to avoid "a problem".
One thing you will realize, when re-installing the cover. When you get the cover up into the head/corners/block face, on top?>>> IT'S TIGHT, even though the pan is down, and it doesn't always wanna get up over the "KEYS" (the knobs on each side on the block face that hold the gasket/cover in place: in place while you snug the bolts, etc....It basically hangs on these things.. just like the block has Key's that hold the HG and then Head in place while you get the head bolts in)
I wonder what everyone things about Ian maybe checking the head bolt torque value while in there? Would you? My motor was new, but I did it obviously to do the CAM swap....but then again when I did the cover swap, hahaha. They HAD come loose a tiny bit. I am just curious I suppose, as I can imagine that there is so much crap under/within the threads of those Head bolts, ...maybe it's not a good idea to try to torque them down or checking the torque without chasing the threads, etc. Just curious...sorry, lol.
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 03-29-2011 at 11:07 AM.
03-29-2011, 11:13 AM
#58
Just wanna clarify something, Ian;
When you go to put the cover on, ...... You can only do it one way, STRAIGHT FORWARD, with the top of the cover sliding along the HG slightly(this is why all the warnings).... The reason you have no choice in this is BECAUSE of those KEYS. You can only get so close to the block, with the cover lets say 1/4 inch below the HG, before YOU HAVE TO push up, and into the HG, because the keys stop you on that opposite angle(The cover has/can only slide on in one PRECISE place, because of the keys)... make sense?
I'll post you a pic or better yet video of the back of my cover, with the exact key hole location, so you can see what I mean.(I'm sure you know already, so let me know and I'll shine on taking pics, lol)
When you go to put the cover on, ...... You can only do it one way, STRAIGHT FORWARD, with the top of the cover sliding along the HG slightly(this is why all the warnings).... The reason you have no choice in this is BECAUSE of those KEYS. You can only get so close to the block, with the cover lets say 1/4 inch below the HG, before YOU HAVE TO push up, and into the HG, because the keys stop you on that opposite angle(The cover has/can only slide on in one PRECISE place, because of the keys)... make sense?
I'll post you a pic or better yet video of the back of my cover, with the exact key hole location, so you can see what I mean.(I'm sure you know already, so let me know and I'll shine on taking pics, lol)
03-29-2011, 12:34 PM
#59
that's good information to know. if i had the funds, i would do a complete re-build, but i need this truck back on the road, and with my schedule, i can't afford down-time. trust me, i soooo badly want to take a month or two off, work overtime for more dinero, then take another month or two off to re-build. from what i've seen on the forums here, what i'm planning on doing is at least going to get the truck back up and running, without it being just a band-aid patch.
thanks again, mark. and if you have a pic or vid on-hand, that'd be great!
thanks again, mark. and if you have a pic or vid on-hand, that'd be great!
03-29-2011, 12:48 PM
#60
Registered User
If you pull the pan you'll have more wiggle room.
I'd only pull the head if you plan on doing a gasket replacement or valve seats. It is the proper way to get a good seal where the timing cover meets the head, but isn't necessary because that part of the gasket isn't under pressure nor does it have oil sitting on it's edge like a valve cover where it would weep. Not to mention there are no water jackets or access to cylinders during the timing chain change.
I'd only pull the head if you plan on doing a gasket replacement or valve seats. It is the proper way to get a good seal where the timing cover meets the head, but isn't necessary because that part of the gasket isn't under pressure nor does it have oil sitting on it's edge like a valve cover where it would weep. Not to mention there are no water jackets or access to cylinders during the timing chain change.
