Well with the bigger tires and all the extra wait on the 4rnr I'm not happy with the stock brakes. I just did some work on the system and all seem to be up to spec for stock and flushed out the old fluid. Still not happy and honestly never have been. SASing is in the near future about all the parts are collected. I'm going to pay someone to actually do the swap, I'm waiting for ankle reconstuction and doing brakes was a two day venture using my kids for labor.

I'm planning on going with a 1" MC, Dual diaphram booster, v-6 calipers. Perphads this will be enough, if you got this set up tell me what you think. I've seen the rear disc and really like the set up but can't go without a ebrak, I've ripped a hard line out on a trail and the ebrake was worth its pathetic weight in gold. Line the idea of staying toyota but I'm not ruling anything out. Chime in all input welcome.

I do not like the t-case parking brake, if I need a ebrake I don't want it attached to the d-line my other braking mechanism.

Here's some sites I've researched and bookmarked.
http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/4runner/brakes/

http://www.pirate4x4.com/productreviews/skybrakes/ I've read that the Elderado e-brake has issues running with the toyota ebrake system

http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfos...ae7203d5b6976a FF is awesome but thats alot of scratch. I've read that the supra rears don't hold upto mud.

I know the is a gentlemen on YT selling brackets but no ebrake

Thanks in advance

 

for bigger rotors and pads check out the ones from performance products and i would upgrade to marlins mc

 

I have 4 disc brakes and it will stop on a dime and under control. Nothing wrong with the trans e-brake. Works like a charm.

 

Did you use the all pro or is there another option?

 

Rear is FROR full floater with 4 cyl IFS calipers and vented rotors with AP trans e-brake
I can lock up my 40s with it going down the highway if need be.

 

What did you do for a MC?

 

FJ80 MC like I sell.

 

Indeed. I'm running the AP trans brake and their rear disk kit with the GM calipers. I also upgraded to V6 calipers up front, FJ80 1" bore master and the V6 dual diaphragm booster. Also, I have a manual proportion valve installed to bias front/rear. Thing works like butta!!!

Oh, and if I would have waited the extra year, I'd have picked up FROR's full floater like Wabbit is running. That is a sweet setup.

 

Full floater rear axle is probably one of my favorite mods since it allows you to do so many other things too.

 

Yup, would have been totally useful when I drug my truck 3300 miles. I'd have just unlocked the rear hubs and free wheeled it! LOL!!!

 

Except it's illegal on most any vehicle operated on road.

 

Oh and here's the links I used:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/reviews/rear_discs/
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/reviews/parking_brake/

 

muddpigg,

For a budget solution, the upgraded booster, MC, and larger front calipers are a great choice. If your LSPV is adjusted correctly the rear drums are plenty capable. Might be a different story with 37"+ tires...

The small 4cyl calipers and the S12W V6 caliper share the same rotor. Sometime in the mid-90's 4Runner got a slightly larger caliper (1.78" pistons) that used thicker and slightly wider rotors. I believe the T100 shared this setup too.

When upgrading to larger bore MC's, just keep in mind the hydraulic advantage you're working with. The ratio of the brake piston surface area over the master cylinder surface area. The stock 4cyl setup (1.683" + 1.338" front pistons, 7/8" wheel cyl, 13/16" MC) has a 32.6:1 advantage. Throw a 1" MC on there and your advantage drops to 21.6:1. Hard pedal, but not an upgrade! But if you're putting on a larger booster then having a lower mechanical advantage is fine.

I upgraded my front brakes to the older V6 calipers (1.68" pistons), a turbo booster, and a 15/16" MC and the pedal is just right! Rock solid by the time it's close to the floor but not before that.

Also if you are running a lift, fabricate a little lift bracket for the LSPV and that will help matters alot. I have just a couple of inches of lift and raising the LSPV 2" or so cured my nose-dive when braking.

Hope that helps!

 

Sub'd

 

Thanks guys.

Rust: I tied my LSPV valve up, not sure I'm getting much from the rears though. Was toying with the idea of a wilwood adjustible valve.

BBP: Thanks for the links will check them out later.

Abe: good point on the legalities.