qft. i'm almost positive it's the MC. it's $40...change it and come back to us. you'll say it's fixed....i'm 99% sure.

 

I had same problem recently. Adjusted my rear brakes out a lot more and problem gone. Make sure the rears are adjusted all the way out.

 

I have a similar problem with my 93 3.0 pickup. I started to have problems after I changed one side (inner and outer) of the front wheel bearings. The pedal goes to the floor and gradually gets better after a 3 pumps or so. I just replaced the master cylinder and bled the system and the problem is still there. possibly a bad bearing creating a wobbly rotor which in turn pushes the pads apart? Still chasing this down.

 

I wonder if he's bleeding in the correct order..
Drivers rear, passenger rear, then LSPV, then driver front, then passenger front..

 

If you bled the brakes correctly and its still happening, then its a bypassing master cylinder.

 

For future reference, my problem was the calipers. They didn't look like they were leaking, but when I took them off the truck I found they were. I was back to a VERY high and firm pedal, two rebuilt calipers and brake pads later.

 

I have the same problem dz. I don't see any problems with anything on physical inspection of everything and have no leaks at all anywhere. So I'm pretty much stuck.

How do you rebuilb the calipers? Do they sell kits? And if so about how much are they?

 

rebuilding calipers should be left to the pros unless you have experience, and if its not perfectly clean then any dirt and grime will wear out the new seal causing it to leak again eventually.

i've worked at a couple brake shops, i can tell you how to rebuild them but like i said, i dont recommend it without good experience, after all it is the single most important safety feature on your vehicle.

new calipers is probably the way to go...

 

Update: it was the master in my case. Cost 49 bones at oriellys.

Note: I saw a post on here saying to adjust the pushrod all the way out. Do not do this!!! (unless that is the cause of your problem) I did it and when I drove it it did not release the pressure on the front brakes when I let off the pedal. I had to let the pressure off via the bleeder valve to get it home. Took of the mc and readjusted the pushrod and now all is normal and have excellent brakes again.

Note 2: a hard pedal and little braking is usually the booster.
A spongy or sinking pedal with little braking is air in the lines or the master cylinder. If you have bled and bled and bled and still have a spongy or sinking pedal then it's the mc.

Replacing the part everyone on this site tells you to: $49

going through 5 big bottles of bf and trying everything you can think of to avoid spending $49 and wind up spending that much in fluid alone: priceless

I'll chalk that up to trying to be a cheapskates =)
and yes... I will do as I'm told here the first time and be done with it fellas.
Although now I know the braking system inside out now... Knowledge gained.