Brake Pad Change Help
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Brake Pad Change Help
Ok.. so I'm down just about to bare metal on my brakes on my passenger side. I've done a lot of searching for a writeup on replacing pads and removing rotors... but am comin up just a little short. I am following the instructions in this thread (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/u...-squeek-6200/), and first of all I am having a really hard time spreading the calipers to get the old pads out.
Next.. I think I might as well take the rotors off and have them surfaced. Is there any writeup somewhere that will tell me how to get to the rotors?
Is there anything else that those instructions in that thread don't cover? I understand that this is a pretty easy DIY job, but I like to go in knowing what to expect. Thanks guys.
Next.. I think I might as well take the rotors off and have them surfaced. Is there any writeup somewhere that will tell me how to get to the rotors?
Is there anything else that those instructions in that thread don't cover? I understand that this is a pretty easy DIY job, but I like to go in knowing what to expect. Thanks guys.
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To remove the rotors you need to:
Remove Locking hub or ADD flange. 6 bolts to get the cover off, 6 more holding the hub to the truck (use a brass hammer and drift to get the cone washers out). Remove the single gold nut in the center and remove the hub/ADD flange.
Remove the 54mm nuts and locking flanges. This will allow the rotor and wheel bearings to slide off the spindle.
You will obviously have to do your wheel bearings, but its always nice having freshly repacked bearings
Use a nice c-clamp to spread the pistons.. Don't use a cheap one!
Make sure you note the level of fluid in your resouvor. If its close to full as is, when you force the pistons back it will push a good amount of fluid back. Possibly overflowing! Paint/electrical + brake fluid =
Remove Locking hub or ADD flange. 6 bolts to get the cover off, 6 more holding the hub to the truck (use a brass hammer and drift to get the cone washers out). Remove the single gold nut in the center and remove the hub/ADD flange.
Remove the 54mm nuts and locking flanges. This will allow the rotor and wheel bearings to slide off the spindle.
You will obviously have to do your wheel bearings, but its always nice having freshly repacked bearings
Use a nice c-clamp to spread the pistons.. Don't use a cheap one!
Make sure you note the level of fluid in your resouvor. If its close to full as is, when you force the pistons back it will push a good amount of fluid back. Possibly overflowing! Paint/electrical + brake fluid =
Last edited by Jay351; 10-14-2008 at 01:20 PM.
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Thanks for the great quick response, Jay! That was really helpful. I have replaced my auto hubs with Warns and I am pretty familiar with what you described until you got to the 54mm nuts and locking flanges. Where are those?
Also.. sorry for the new dumb question but what is involved in repacking the wheel bearings? And on the calipers - I guess I'm just having a hard time finding a place to compress them.
Also.. sorry for the new dumb question but what is involved in repacking the wheel bearings? And on the calipers - I guess I'm just having a hard time finding a place to compress them.
Last edited by devldogs55; 10-14-2008 at 01:54 PM.
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Search packing bearings in google. Not that difficult of a job. To get to the back one you have to remove the seal. May as well get new seals while you are at it (if you remove the seal, you NEED to get a new one).
The rotor is bolted to the back of the hub.
W/ the pads removed, use a c grip like jay said and put one jaw in the piston and the other on the back of the caliper. SQUEEZE! Check the fluid like he said too.
The rotor is bolted to the back of the hub.
W/ the pads removed, use a c grip like jay said and put one jaw in the piston and the other on the back of the caliper. SQUEEZE! Check the fluid like he said too.
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Good call indeed. I found it.. I had lost that link and completely forgot it was a sticky! Thanks again.
For the poster who needed help - here is the HTML link in the FSM to brakes.
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...r/frontbra.pdf
For the poster who needed help - here is the HTML link in the FSM to brakes.
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...r/frontbra.pdf
#9
also if you still cant get the calipers to compress and the pads were metal to metal the pistons could have came out of the seals you can get them back in but they wont go unless you apply even pressure around the piston
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Allright Corey, will do. I didn't take any pictures because I was cursing the whole time
I'll probably do a writeup without pics tonight and submit it. I did finally get everything done, but I can't do my rotors till payday. I'll submit an addition to the brake pad change as soon as I do my rotors - so it'll be a "twofer". Gotta clean all this grease off me first.
Thanks again for everyone's help. I decided to just take the calipers off and clean 'em real good and inspect everything. I greased it all up real good and put it all back together. Things work great now!
I'll probably do a writeup without pics tonight and submit it. I did finally get everything done, but I can't do my rotors till payday. I'll submit an addition to the brake pad change as soon as I do my rotors - so it'll be a "twofer". Gotta clean all this grease off me first.
Thanks again for everyone's help. I decided to just take the calipers off and clean 'em real good and inspect everything. I greased it all up real good and put it all back together. Things work great now!
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I didn't actually get to changing the rotors and packing the bearings today. I will as soon as I get paid on Friiday - but couldn't buy rotors today.
I'll put it all in a writeup as soon as the rotors and bearings are done.
I'll put it all in a writeup as soon as the rotors and bearings are done.
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