I have used crimps on a lot of things but that's not saying that it's not causing issues. I had to fix a few from the P/O. wires to to fuel pump and the knock sensor splices went bad.

The extra wire you are talking about; is it near the cold start valve? get a pic of it. I think mine is unplugged as well. Might be for cruise or something we don't have.

 

Yep it's between cold start injector and #4 injector on the fuel rail. I get outta class in 5mins and gotta walk home, so I'll have a pic posted up for ya in about 15mins!

It sure would be a relief to know that it's not supposed to go anywhere! But now it makes me want to swap stuff from the 4runner to get cruise control again...I'll just focus on getting it to run first though.

 

Take a look at this and tell me if its the same one? Right next to the CSV.

 

It's not the best pic, but its the best I could do with my phone. I can get out my dslr and get a better pic if this one doesn't show you enough.

 

Looks like the same one to me!
*edit* except I'm holding mine upside down, at least compared to yours

 

And that's used for some sensor needed for cruise control?

 

I don't think you need it. Mine was unplugged when I did my HG and left it that way. I have a few other like that as well. I know the one in the front is for the AC clutch.

 

The only thing I can think of...I could be wrong though. I didn't look too far into it cuz she runs good and from what I can see was never hooked up.

 

Oh, and between the cold start injector and the next vacuum line coming off the manifold towards the front of the motor, you've got just a plug in the manifold. Both my truck and 4runner have some kind of adjustable valve with a vacuum diaphragm in that spot, with 2 1/4" or so vacuum lines clamped on and 2 smaller vacuum lines just slipped on. . .What do I have that you're missing, and did you get rid of whatever it is for a reason?

 

I believe that is the idle up for the AC, do you have AC in those 2 vehicles?

 

I guess my reply didn't post. . .Both vehicles HAD AC, so you're probably right. The lines are bad on the 4runner, the compressor is bad on the truck. I'm going to swap out compressors and take care of that problem once I get the motor runnin.

I finally got my old soldering iron to heat up enough that I could solder the TPS wires, they're all soldered now and have shrink-tubing over the connections.

Gotta do a little last minute studying for a quiz I have in 12 minutes, but after that class is over (should be about 2:30) I'm gonna come hook up the battery and see if the truck will run!

Thanks a lot for all the help, by the way. I would've still been trying to figure out where that plug went if it wasn't for you haha.

 

Not a problem...I hope this all has helped. Your next post I want to hear that you got her running.

 

I got her running!! Took it down the street, jumped on the highway and got her to 65 (which isn't bad considering I've got the 33" TSL's on right now), headed home, and...it died when I was waiting to turn onto my street...I'm hoping the coil or ignition module were bad and just got hot, heading to the donor vehicle now to pull those and the exhaust...

 

Good Deal!!!!

 

Congrats on getting it moving.

 

Thanks guys. She's starting up again and running, just kinda rough. I'm gonna try to find someone to put exhaust on this weekend (guy before me cut it off right before the cat because he said it was about to fall off). I'm hoping some more backpressure might help things a little.

 

Changed the ECT because I thought that may be why she wasn't wanting to start up when hot and seemed to be running rich all the time, seemed to help a bit. Going to change the pcv later this evening I think, it's loose and puffing blowby out around the grommet...hopefully after that she'll be better off, but I'm not going to hold my breath. Did the 'self diagnostic' by jumping those two terminals in the diagnostic box under the hood, and I'm still getting a TPS code, a NE circuit code, AND an ECT code...it's starting to make me think this could be a wiring issue...

 

After thinking about it, I realized that I'd never cleared the codes for TPS and ECT since I replaced them, and I may be to blame for an accidental NE circuit code...

I also got up underneath the truck looking for the o2 sensor, which was originally one of the things on the top of my list to check or replace...I'm not sure why I seemingly forgot about it (price, maybe? Haha) but after a little searching I located it...less than 6 inches away from where the trucks previous owner had cut off the exhaust. Now I'm really suspecting that lack of backpressure is an issue and may be causing that o2 sensor to get a lean reading. And even if that isn't the case, the guy used a cutting torch to remove the exhaust, if he was careless that sensor could be bad...

I about went and bought a $20 glasspack, exhaust pipe, and clamps yesterday, but because I'm missing all my exhaust hangers (he cut them off really high up, and I don't have a welder here) I decided to just wait till Monday to take it to a local muffler shop. I can get a glasspack and a few feet of exhaust pipe welded together and reattached to hangers for $40, so I'd just assume wait and get exhaust that won't fall off haha.

 

That little knob is the ac idle up vacuum diaphram, its adjustable so that you can adjust where the engine idles when the ac is on.

I bet that its the 02 sensor and lack of exhaust that is making it run so rich!! Like you said telling the engine its running lean. I would also check the VAF meter, mine was going out and it ended up making my truck run rich, The haynes manual has steps for testing this too, thats how I found out mine was bad!

 

Well I used a sawzaw to cut the exhaust off my 4runner at the approximate location where exhaust was cut off the truck, clamped it all up, and started driving back home from my dad's...I drove about 4 miles to the highway before the damn catalytic converter end of the exhaust slipped out of the clamped connector I pulled over and used the claw end of my hammer to throw it in the back of the truck and get home...fixed that yesterday, got a new connector and a piece of 2" exhaust with one bell end so I could "extend" everything as needed.

Truck started up immediately after that, didn't hesitate like it did. Ran nice and quiet for about 15 minutes until I shut it off to do a test "hot" start (it wasn't fully warmed up, but it was warm enough). The damn thing just doesn't want to start once it's warmed up! I've tried pulling the connector off the cold start injector in the past to get it to start when hot without success, but that was pre-exhaust and also before I (hopefully) fixed the running rich/o2 sensor issue so I haven't ruled out the CS injector yet. I ran the battery dead trying to get it to start yesterday (brand new battery, it shouldn't be going dead so fast...), but I'm gonna jump it today and try pulling the CS injector for the hot start test.