body swap question
#1
body swap question
hey guys, im new to the site and toyotas as well. i got my first 4runner a few weeks back with a fair bit of rust in it . its a 92 sr5 4 cylinder(i assume 22re) 5 speed. but as i said the body is pretty rough so i got another one (91 v6 auto and a swiss cheese chassis but body completly redone last year) my plan was to just hack up the 91 for repair panels and sell the rest for parts,(engine tranny tcase) cuz it was useless to me.but after bein in the truck with power everything including moonroof, my plain jane 92 didnt have the same appeal and it would be a shame to chop it up,so my question(s) is what will be involved in a body swap as regards to the wiring and stuff. i asume ill have to get the ecu and wiring harness out of the 92. anything else? and sorry it was so long but i had to get the details out there. and another question what makes a 4runner an sr5? thanks
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I'll be starting the same thing in a couple weeks. My daughter rolled her 94, and I found a nice bodied 92 with 280k miles on it, and no motor. I have access to a lift so I plan on leaving motor in and lifting the body off. Most of the body to frame connections look relativly easy to access. Just alot of little things to mark and disconnect. Remember the inter fenders and front support are all welded to the firewall so it all has to come off as one piece.
I guess I'll see if it is easier than swapping all the running gear.
I guess I'll see if it is easier than swapping all the running gear.
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Ok I got the body swap done. Started with a rolled 94 4runner 5spd and a good body from a 92 5 spd. Swap went really well, but I would not even attemp it without a lift! The only difference I found between the two that caused any problem was the AC. The lines in the 94 AC system are larger than the 92. I ended up installing the compressor from the 92 on the 94 motor other than that it was plug and play.
Remove battery
Remove Radiator & Shroud
Remove airbox
Un-hook steering shaft
Unhook throttle and cruise control cables
Remove AC lines from compressor
Remove slave cylinder from the trans and attach to the body
Unplug the computer from the harnes behind the passenger kick pannel
Thread computer harness out into the engine compartment
Unbolt electrical and vacuum boxes from passenger fender and place on top of motor
Unplug electrical connectors on alternator, ac compressor, airbox
Un plug the heater hoses at the firewall (Pick the easiest to re-install)
Unplug ground on drives fender
Unhook fuel filler from inside door and remove cover inside wheel well
Remove spare tire
unplug fuel line and return from hard lines mid point under body
disconnect brake lines at the frame rails drive & passenger side
Unhook e-brake cable by transfere case
Remove the front bumper & lights
Unplug the rear seat heater lines above the trans output shaft
Remove the door sill trim on the drives side
Remove the shift boot cover and plate underneath
Remove the drives seat
Unplug the electrical connector under the drives seat
Thread cable out the hole behind the drives seat
Remove the 10 nuts on the body mounts
2 very front of frame, 2 very rear of frame
You can see the others under the outside of the frame down both sides
Try to remove the nuts before removing the carpet
Most have captive bolts so you wont have to remove the carpet unless the bolts spin
Slowly and carefully lift the body a little at a time checking for additional connections or interference.
Roll the chassis out from under and get ready to do it again!
It sound like alot, but it was way beter than swapping all the components into the 92. My 94 was running and had only 150K on it, the 92 had no motor and had 285K on it. I got it done in a weekend, emissions and plates on Monday and it's on the road!
It is pretty obvious that this is how it's done in the factory, Toyota designed the 4 runner for volume production and it shows. Not a project for everyone, but I'd do it again, but only, only with a lift!
Remove battery
Remove Radiator & Shroud
Remove airbox
Un-hook steering shaft
Unhook throttle and cruise control cables
Remove AC lines from compressor
Remove slave cylinder from the trans and attach to the body
Unplug the computer from the harnes behind the passenger kick pannel
Thread computer harness out into the engine compartment
Unbolt electrical and vacuum boxes from passenger fender and place on top of motor
Unplug electrical connectors on alternator, ac compressor, airbox
Un plug the heater hoses at the firewall (Pick the easiest to re-install)
Unplug ground on drives fender
Unhook fuel filler from inside door and remove cover inside wheel well
Remove spare tire
unplug fuel line and return from hard lines mid point under body
disconnect brake lines at the frame rails drive & passenger side
Unhook e-brake cable by transfere case
Remove the front bumper & lights
Unplug the rear seat heater lines above the trans output shaft
Remove the door sill trim on the drives side
Remove the shift boot cover and plate underneath
Remove the drives seat
Unplug the electrical connector under the drives seat
Thread cable out the hole behind the drives seat
Remove the 10 nuts on the body mounts
2 very front of frame, 2 very rear of frame
You can see the others under the outside of the frame down both sides
Try to remove the nuts before removing the carpet
Most have captive bolts so you wont have to remove the carpet unless the bolts spin
Slowly and carefully lift the body a little at a time checking for additional connections or interference.
Roll the chassis out from under and get ready to do it again!
It sound like alot, but it was way beter than swapping all the components into the 92. My 94 was running and had only 150K on it, the 92 had no motor and had 285K on it. I got it done in a weekend, emissions and plates on Monday and it's on the road!
It is pretty obvious that this is how it's done in the factory, Toyota designed the 4 runner for volume production and it shows. Not a project for everyone, but I'd do it again, but only, only with a lift!
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