ken914runner

I got a 2 inch body lift for my 91 4runner that i will be putting on thursday. i got directions with the kit, but was wondering if any body knows where i can get a web site or anything else that has a pic by pic directions just want to make sure i do the body lift and everything else right.
thanks,
ken

leebee

www.4crawler.com

lee

UKMyers

I didn't do a write up but I can tell you where you'll have issues. The front bumper is a nightmare. I had to mod my bumper brackets and remove the original frame jigs from the cross member. Unhook your clutch hard line from the firewall before you lift the body or you'll kink it. Unhook your battery cables also they are going to be too tight. You have to cut all the factoy clips and holders and re route the cables. Make sure you have somebody who can weld well do your shifter extensions or you WILL break it off. An air gun with a deep well socket is very useful because the new body bolts use nylock nuts with ridiculously long threads that take forever with a ratchet or end wrench. Finally if you have a factory receiver hitch your going to have a huge gap between it and your bumper. Good luck. It took my Dad and I two 8-10 hour days to do mine but that included most of a day fabricating my receiver hitch and pushbar brackets to accomodate the BL.

hodgepodge79

I'll put these tips to use with my 1" BL soon

Jay351

Its really not THAT complicated just a teedius job.

Remember to soak all your bolts with penetrent lube a good week before you start.

remove:

-Front bumper and valance (if installed)
-battery
-intake tube (mine didnt fit right after lifting the truck)
-overflow tank for rad (access to rad bolts)
-whiper fluid tank (access to rad bolts)
-remove shifters (easier to do when the truck is not lifted)
-remove plastic strips holding your carpet down so you can get to your body bolts


I didnt have to fool with my brake or clutch lines, the battery cables just had to move them about 3" under the truck and there was enough slack, had to flip the elbow on the intake upsidedown to raise lower it so it can clamp onto the throttle body

Took us 2 days working like 4 hours in the rain with:

impact gun and breaker bar (for body bolts)
Socket set
screwdrivers
jack
various peices of 2x4's and 4x4's
torch (to bend shifter to clear t-case shifter, and to remove a stuck body mount)
man power.

once you start to remove parts and get to the body bolts you will see its really not THAT complicated

justinking060310

I just did 3" on mine - see my post for tips -

I didnt have near the problems that are being presented here - I have an auto and not a manual, so i cant speak in that respect -

as far as I am concerned the receiver is what it is, by modifying it you are **potentially** causing negative effects.

I went 3 inches and didnt have any lines, hoses, or anything else get too tight - it is a case by case basis but if I went 3" I would think 1" would be simple

And I loved my impact gun for getting those body mount bolts off. I used an air ratchet (not an impact) to put the new nylocks on - torque spec is 20-30 ft/lbs - you do not want to break one.

another tip - when holding the in-cab bolt heads - use a ratchet and a 14/17mm socket on a 1/2 ratchet instead of a wrench as I tore up Katies hand with the power from the impact and a wrench...

Justin

mwilliam13

I did a 2" lift from Roger Brown. It was a great install, took about 2.5 hours, with no buddies. I would suggest a hi-lift hack, and a 4x4 piece of wood between the body and the jack, about 10-12" long. I just removed the body mounts from driver, jacked up from under the A pillar, then installed, lather, rinse, repeat on the passenger. I also recommed getting the 2" drop brackets for the radiator, and then depending on your steering situation, either (in my case) drill the pin in the column (don't uninstall it to do it...), or the expansion plate. It was pretty decent install. The BEST way to remove those factory washers is with a hammer and I ended up using a 19mm deep impact socket. You will realize why once you start out. DON'T THROW ANYTHING OUT TILL YOU ARE DONE!!! I needed all of the original rubber mounts, just the bolts and nuts I discarded, so be careful. Let me know if you run into any issues or questions, I will do my best to answer.

jcfb

Heh heh... How true this is! I used to have a body lift on my truck (I don't like them at all, so I removed it) and I broke the transfer case lever off while trying to go into 2wd. I ended up using a wrench to wedge against the nub and shift it into 2wd so I could drive home.

ovrrdrive

I also didn't have any of those problems at all when I did my 3"...

The only point I agree with is to take the shifters to a reputable shop to get them welded.

The front bumper was cake, and I didn't cut any clips or kink any hoses. Just loosen everything and do it with a floor jack a pump or two then massage the hoses and lines, then a pump or two and massage, etc.

It took me about 6 hours with a friend and neither one of knew jack about yota's back then. I bet I could do it in half the time now.

I recall having the most trouble getting the filler neck bolted back to the fender because it was stretched out all the way. But I got it and have had no problems in the 12 years since I did the lift.