Just did this myself at the beginning of the year. Resurface is a must ( learned the hard way), and also make sure you got the head gaskets on the correct head. if you swap them you'll be blocking off cooling ports. I did my head gasket job for roughly around 500.

 

Maybe. Not sure how it works but it helps with the engine heat and the gasket issues. Search it. My knowledge lacks.

 

OEM gaskets?

Get new head studs/bolts also. I always went with ARP on the Honda.

 

i just went with the felpro master gasket set. came with everything to do the job minus the headbolts. think it cost around 250 through autozone.

 

You can use fel pros or evergreens but stay away from rock autos head gasket kits. As for doing the job, it's easier to do the engine on the stand so I remove every one. (I do about 1 a week)1st thing you do is when you get down to the short block, make sure you don't have any collapsed pistons, from the over heating. You can cean the surface with a purple 3m Rolocs disc. Defiantly take the heads to your machine shop to have them cleaned, pressure tested, and resurfaced. Make sure you blow out all the coolant passages, with compressed air, including the oil cooler line. Make sure you have eliminated the cause of the overheating so you don't blow another head gasket when it's all back together.

 

Wish I'd have been that thorough, I was super limited on time and out of vehicles to get to and from work with. I only used a shop vac on all of my ports suck any thing that may have fallen inside. Mine failed at the number 6 cylinder. My guess is it was from the extra heat from the exhaust cross over.

 

Out of the 100 3.0's I've rebuilt over the last 4 years, #'s 1 or 6 are the main culprits for blowing head gaskets. My theory is because its the end of the water jackets on the block. I don't buy the theory of aluminum heads on steel block cooling differences.

 

Most importantly do the head bots according to fsm spec

 

I did mine to the haynes manual. are they different? also 33lb, then 1/4 and 1/4 turn seems alil odd to me. why is this rather than an actal number?

 

Yes to be exact it's 33 ft lbs +90* +90* but then you have to tighten them in the specified pattern too.

 

That's the kit I was looking at. Did you get new head bolts? How hard was it to take off the timing sprockets?I see there is a special tool to hold them.

I'm hoping to get rest of it apart this weekend so I can get the heads to the machine shop on Monday.

 

Id get ARP head bolts.

 

Ignore that^^useless piece of advice. Just do exactly what Toyota says in those regards. No sense wasting money. Just for bragging rights.
What's your real name and where do you work? People need to know these things. So they can avoid your shop at all costs.

Collapsed pistons? SHOW ME A SINGLE ONE!!!

What? You think we're all a bunch of retards here? Or are you really what your name suggests? That's rhetorical. The answer is more than obvious.

Your so high I can smell it from here.

 

Lol I had an issue with those timing gears and I highly wouldnt recommend what I did.

 

I can see you thinking about it. I'm warning you now...DON'T EVEN!!!

You've already pissed me off so bad I'm about to go buy a plane ticket and come find your ass...

I'm telling you...walk away...just turn the computer off...and go have another...whatever it is your on.

 

Whats with the aggressive posts lately? I think a mod needs to give you a time out. You have knowledge....but your a bleeep bleep.

You constantly attack other members.

Getting sick of seeing it.

So Im sayin....shut your mouth unless you have something nice to say.

 

You don't need the Special service tool to undo the cam bolts, but you will have to pull the valve cover and there will be a spot on the cam shaft to put a wrench on to hold the cam, while you air impact the cam bolt off.


As for mud hippy and collapsed pistons. I'm serious man. Most blown bad head gaskets are results of over heating. Depending on how bad the block overheated it can shrink the piston. Not enough you can tell by the naked eye but just enough to rattle around in the cylinder wall. It's not very common, but I mentioned it because I've ran into it more than once. I'm not trying to mislead anyone just sharing some knowledge.

 

Was it what this guy did lmao


I did find this old thread on here. Not exactly sure how it works though.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l-tool-186081/

This is the tool I found online.

http://www.napaonline.com/catalog/ca...191_0424508419

 

What if I don't have an air gun. Is it absolutely necessary? I'm sure I could borrow one if it is.

 

If you don't have an air impact you are going to strong arm the cam bolts off with a breaker bar and maybe an extension on the breaker bar